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Tag: Baselworld

  • Why top watch marques no longer need Baselworld, SIHH?

    Why top watch marques no longer need Baselworld, SIHH?

    Dr Bernard Cheong has what he calls a “migration box” – a travel case that holds up to eight timepieces. “I like to say that these are the watches I will take with me if I have to relocate,” says the jovial 61-year-old, one of the world’s most prolific watch collectors. One of his most prized pieces is a S$3.3 million (US$2.4 million) Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1, numbered 00 in an 11-piece series. Its serial number indicates that it is the watchmaker’s personal prototype. It would not even have been sold, if not for Cheong’s clout. He believes the watch can eventually command up to S$5 million.

    In 2011, he made history when he became the first ambassador for the Geneva-based Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie who was not from the watch industry. He helped formulate the transparent jury system, and an audited and numbered voting system, for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2002, a high-end watchmaking contest, before introducing it to Asia.

    His expertise is drawn from decades of experience of watch buying and selling and forging close relationships with watchmakers and retailers. This has also put him in the unique position of being an industry observer with unfiltered, and sometimes contrary, insights.

    For instance, he does not mince words when talking about the recent issues surrounding the industry’s key watch fairs, Baselworld and SIHH. The two fairs recently announced they would be synchronizing their calendars to run back to back, following a fall in the number of Baselworld exhibitors.

    “It is a reality of the industry. The exhibitors do not need to be there any more – why pay so much to exhibit like this?” he says. Cheong notes that watchmakers today can easily bypass industry fairs by offering information about their latest creations directly to consumers via the internet.

    Protecting his beloved industry is something Cheong takes seriously. In China, the recent crackdown on conspicuous consumption has led to a drop in sales and to brands like Richemont buying back unsold stock. “It is smart for the companies to buy back their precious pieces. When times are hard, people will sell watches at any price to put food on the table,” he says. This could lead to a massive undercutting in prices, he adds.

    “They did the right thing to retain control of prices.”

  • Baselworld to halve exhibitor numbers in 2018

    Baselworld to halve exhibitor numbers in 2018

    Baselworld, the world’s leading show for watches and jewellery, will halve its exhibitor numbers and shorten the show’s duration by two days in 2018.

    The exhibitor numbers in 2018 are expected to be around 600-700, compared to around 1,300 this year. The prices for stand rental will also be lowered by -10%, the organizers revealed.

    Baselworld said the decision to reduce the number of exhibitors and length of the show is a result of market consolidation in terms of marketing and production and the challenges of digital technology.

    In a statement, Baselworld said: “Baselworld remains faithful to its strategy of quality and diversity. However, the watch and jewellery market is undergoing a period of profound change. Baselworld 2018 presents itself in a denser and more concentrated form in several respects.

    “Baselworld has decided to maintain its outstanding quality for the next edition. The show does not rely on quantity, but will remain the leading event for premier global brands. And this in all segments.”

    According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, Swiss watch exports fell by -9.8% in 2016 – their second consecutive annual drop.

    “The environment confronting the Swiss watch industry remained difficult throughout the year 2016. Demand for personal luxury goods fell, especially for the most expensive products. Timepieces therefore had to contend with changes in the choices made by consumers who are increasingly interested in the notion of experience associated with the world of luxury and less in shopping as used to be the case,” said the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry.

    Baselworld is scheduled to take place from 22 to 27 March 2018.

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  • Tight market hits Watches & Wonders

    Tight market hits Watches & Wonders

    With sales slipping in the industry’s largest market, the annual Watches & Wonders exhibition in Hong Kong may be cut back to every two years.

    High-end watchmakers are looking at a shift in strategy in Hong Kong in the face of the most severe downturn the industry has faced since the 2008-09 financial crisis, reports Reuters.

    Branching out from the two biggest trade shows in Switzerland, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva and Baselworld, Watches & Wonders was launched in 2013 by theFondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which is now talking with exhibitors about the show’s future format, according to Richard Mille, CEO of independent watchmaker Richard Mille.

    Watches & Wonders mainly showcases Richemont-owned brands like Cartier, Montblanc and Vacheron Constantin, as well as some independents, reports Bloomberg.

    “Some brands have been fighting to get out, completely out, to stop Watches & Wonders,” Mille said at this week’s SIHH in Geneva, the industry’s first event of the year.

    “Some of the brands want to do it every two years, some say every year. It’s a negotiation.”

    A decision will be made after this week’s show, according to foundation chairwoman Fabienne Lupo.

    The event also competes with the annual Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, which had nearly 800 exhibitors last year.

    China’s crackdown on extravagant spending plus currency fluctuations have hit the demand for expensive timepieces in Hong Kong, with Swiss watch exports to the island city plunging 23 per cent in the first 11 months of 2015, and facing the first annual decline since 2009. TAG Heuer closed one of its Hong Kong stores in August.

    Mille, whose watches sell from about 70,000 Swiss francs ($70,000) upward, says the objective of exhibiting in Watches & Wonders is to make contact with clients who are unable to attend the boutique shows. “It’s not cheap, but it’s worthwhile.”

    Meanwhile, high-end watchmakers are considering expanding their range of more affordable products. Executives at the Geneva event say the industry is having to adapt to a market with fewer Chinese, Middle Eastern and Russian buyers than a year ago, an outcome of record low oil prices and signs of economic weakness in China.

    Cartier, Richemont’s leading brand and main source of profit, is presenting more models than ever at more accessible prices at this week’s SIHH. Among them is Cartier’s new Drive model, a steel-cased men’s watch priced at a little more than 5000 euros ($5430). Previously, Cartier would offer only new models in gold and leather, with prices starting at more than 10,000 euros.

    Sister brand Piaget, generally starting no lower than 10,000 euros, has re-launched a women’s line starting at about 7000 euros, while Richemont stablemate Montblanc has introduced a wide range of lower-priced models.

    Montblanc CEO Jerome Lambert says that whatever happens, his company will stay active in Hong Kong with major exhibitions.

    “There is a different price awareness among customers now… and less price elasticity,” Piaget chief executive Philippe Leopold-Metzger told Reuters at the fair. “Times are difficult.”

    Several watchmakers have cut staff numbers in recent months, including Kering‘s newly acquired Ulysse Nardin and privately owned Parimigiani and Christophe Claret. Piaget closed a boutique in Shanghai last month, and Parmigiani plants to cut back its global outlets to about 250 from around 300 by the end of the year.

    Van Cleef & Arpels, one of the fastest-growing brands within the Richemont group, has also seen a slowdown in Hong Kong, Macao and the US. It is looking at new growth opportunities in such markets as Australia, Canada and Thailand, where it has just opened a store.

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