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Tag: Marni

  • Marni names new CEO

    Marni names new CEO

    Italian fashion major Marni has announced the appointment of Stefano Biondo to chief executive officer, effective 15 May 2018.

    The OTB Group-owned luxury label poached Biondo from eyewear company Safilo, where he served as chief brand officer.

    He succeeds Ubaldo Minelli, who was promoted to CEO of OTB in January. Biondo will report directly to Minelli.

    In speaking with WWD, Minelli expressed his confidence in Biondo’s helming of the Marni brand, which has been under management reconstruction globally.

    “Marni has a precise and recognisable identity with incredible potential for growth,” said Minelli.

    “In recent years, we have built a solid foundation for the brand’s future and it is now on the launchpad for true development and success.”

    One of the biggest turning points for the label was in 2016, when Marni appointed a new creative director, Francesco Risso, to replace Marni founder, Consuelo Castiglioni.

    In 2017, Marni’s turnover exceeded 180 million euros, experiencing double-digit growth worldwide, especially in Asia.

    It also highlighted a growth in accessories, specifically handbags, which soared on some 90% in certain markets. Millennial sales were also up, said OTB.

    Marni is present in 54 countries with a wholesale channel of 470 stores and 70 mono-brand stores, with 22 boutiques operated with local partners. Most recently, Marni opened a flagship store in Florence, with several planned for China.

    In 2017, the OTB group quadrupled its Earnings Before Interest and Tax (EBIT) to €21.5 million, despite suffering a 2.4 percent decline in group revenues

    OTB controls Marni, Diesel, Maison Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Paula Cademartori, Staff International and Brave Kid.

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  • Marni reopens Shanghai boutique

    Marni reopens Shanghai boutique

    Marni China has reopened its renovated boutique in Shanghai’s Reel Department Store in the downtown district of Jing’An.

    To celebrate the event, the Italian luxury fashion brand hosted its first-ever Marni Christmas Carnival.

    This featured a limited-edition range of “Marni Visitors”, puppets the brand commissions from Colombian artisans for the festive season each year. A portion of proceeds from the sale of the puppets worldwide go to the Milan-based children’s charity Piccolo Principe.

    In addition, five limited-edition trunk bags were also designed for the carnival.

    The Shanghai store is one of 15 the brand has in China.

    Founded in 1994, Marni has been undergoing a transformation since creative director Francesco Risso took over from founder/designer Consuelo Castiglioni last year. Risso was previously the designer of Prada womenswear.

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  • Harvey Nichols Hong Kong reopens

    Harvey Nichols Hong Kong reopens

    Harvey Nichols Hong Kong has reopened its store at The Landmark following a three-month renovation.

    Originally opened in 2005, the five-storey store now offers the Style Concierge, a personalised service that helps customers with their wardrobe makeover. It also offers makeovers for every occasion, invitations to events, private sales, special offers, gift suggestions, beauty advice and delivery services.

    Harvey Nichols Hong Kong Landmark

    Also new is Mixology, a permanent pop-up area that features new designer labels and fashion trends. Its first showcase is Korean fashion power houses including Customellow, CY Choi, D-Antidote and Solid Homme.

    Harvey Nichols Hong Kong Landmark 2

    More than 30 makeup and skincare labels have been introduced as well, including Addiction, La Mer, Nail & Lash by Per Face, Tom Ford Beauty and Whoo.

    From Copenhagen Fashion Week, Harvey Nichols has introduced designer labels including Han Kjøbenhavn, Henrik Vibskov and Tonsure. These add to the line-up of labels from other international fashion weeks including Hilfiger Collection, Maison Margiela and Vera Wang for women, and Lavin and Marni for men.

    Harvey Nichols Hong Kong Landmark 3

    The store’s facade is a geometric-faceted floating panel sitting prominently with the inherited adjacent architecture, with the abstracted lines from the “H” and “N” creating a pattern that is illuminated at night.

  • Marni Japan opens flower cafe

    Marni Japan opens flower cafe

    Known for using fur in contemporary designs, Italian fashion brand Marni has opened its first flower cafe, in Osaka.

    On the third floor of the Umeda Hankyu Department Store, the 50 sqm (535 sqft) the Marni Japan cafe and shop combo is designed as a meeting place serving focaccia bread and Italian-styled cakes, as well as customised Marni products.

    Marni Flower cafe Japan 3

    It resembles a child’s playhouse, a reflection of the off-beat bohemianism associated with the creations of lead designer Castiglioni, who started the brand in 1994. Initially its focus was on womenswear “for women who eschew styling themselves sexy for men in favour of dressing for other women”.

    Marni Flower cafe Japan

    Marni went on to launch its own menswear line and now produces ready-to-wear clothing, handbags, eyewear and jewellery.

    Marni Flower cafe Japan 1Marni Flower cafe Japan 5

    At its opening event in Osaka, Marni Japan created a picnic set with wooden lunch boxes, multicoloured furoshiki (wrapping cloths), vacuum flasks, floral bags, PVC vases and porcelain sets featuring the company’s colourblock patterns. The store itself features a green onyx counter, interwoven PVC stools, small tables crafted from brass and green marble, and a bright blue sofa.
    The first of many Marni Japan stores planned, the cafe store will change its product lineup every four months.

    Marni Flower cafe Japan 4

    Part of the OTB Group that includes Diesel, Maison Martin Margiela and Viktor & Rolf, Marni has outlets in 16 countries with boutiques in Beijing, Hong Kong, Kuwait, Las Vegas, London, Los Angeles, Moscow, New York, Shanghai and Sydney.

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  • Joyce Boutique plunges into the red

    Joyce Boutique plunges into the red

    Listed fashion boutique operator Joyce Boutique says it will continue to take a cautious approach to business expansion and focus on consolidation of the Joyce multi-label business towards higher-productivity stores in the year ahead.

    It will renovate and expand the Joyce flagship store in Central and relocate the Shanghai Joyce flagship store to a bigger space within Plaza 66 to introduce a completely new look and unique shopping experience to customers.

    The move follows revelation of a HK$34.9 million half year loss for the company – a major turnaround from the $32.8 million profit in the same period last year.

    Sales slumped 10.9 per cent, and gross margin lost 3.5 percentage points, the company has reported to the stock exchange.

    “The persistent fall-off in customer spending on luxury goods in Hong Kong and Mainland China drove down the sales performance of the luxury retail market in the period. Depreciation of the euro and yen against the dollar and renminbi led to an increase in overseas shopping and online shopping for luxury goods and impacted on bricks-and-mortar local retailing.” the company said in its interim report.

    Joyce Boutique’s Hong Kong, turnover dropped by 10.3 per cent against the same period last year and accounted for 82.5 per cent of group turnover (2014: 81.9 per cent). Further impacted by declined gross margin and increased rental costs, the Hong Kong division incurred an operating loss of $12.6 million for the period (2014: a profit of $36.6 million).

    Mainland China turnover declined by 14.6 per cent versus the same period last year and operating results turned into a loss of $22.9 million from last year’s profit of $3.1 million, chiefly the result of a general decline in turnover and margin and an additional $7.6 million provision made for a loss making shop in Shanghai.

    Joyce Boutique inside

    The joint venture with Marni made a loss contribution of $1.0 million (2014: profit of HK$1.3 million) due to a drop in turnover and an increase in operating costs.

    “In view of the difficult trading environment, the group adopted a cautious shop strategy. While opening new shops for three potential brands as planned in the previous financial year (the first Hong Kong shop for Thom Browne at On Lan St, the first China shop for Sacai at Beijing Sanlitun and the first Macau shop for Alexander Wang at Galaxy Macau), the group closed certain non-performing shops to improve shop productivity,” the company reported.

    As well as the change in store focus and the renovation of the Hong Kong and Shanghai flagships, the company says it plans to further strengthen customer loyalty and drive sales from VIP customers through enhanced personal stylist services and the introduction of private customer mobile apps.

    Joyce Boutique says it expects the near term trading environment will remain “tough and challenging”.

    “Rental levels in prime shopping malls remain high relative to turnover. Online shopping and overseas shopping for luxury goods will continue to impact on bricks-and-mortar specialty retailing. In view of the challenges, the group will focus on driving cost efficiency and shop productivity, fashion editing and reducing business risks through taking cautious approach to business expansion and stock purchase planning.”