Tag: Matalan

  • New Look loses market share in tough year

    New Look loses market share in tough year

    New Look’s share of the UK clothing market has fallen to 2.6 per cent for calendar year 2016 – from 2.7 per cent in 2015.

    Stores have failed to drive the necessary footfall to return its like-for-like performance to positive territory, with year-to-date (39 weeks to 24 December 2016) UK like-for-likes are down 7.3 per cent with the likes of Next, Primark and Matalan also finding it tough to grow organic stores sales during 2016. Moreover, weaker sales and significant levels of discounting throughout the year led to a 32.6 per cent decline in underlying operating profit to £111.5 million, bringing margins down 4.2 percentage points to 9.8 pr cent.

    The strength of the online competition has dampened the appeal of New Look’s physical stores.

    The fashion-led product mix, attractive pricing and inspiring shopping experience at the likes of boohoo.com, Missguided and Asos continue to encourage New Look’s core shopper base to browse and shop more online reducing the need to visit physical stores. This shift has benefited New Look’s online platform as has its investment in product styling, delivery options and editorial content.

    The double digit growth in online sales highlights that the problem does not lie with product – it is the number of stores New Look operates and their lack of responsiveness during periods of unseasonal weaker.

    Store closures, enhanced visual merchandising, increased product newness and adapting its seasonal mix and phasing is essential to return like-for-likes to growth and limit the threat of the online pure-plays.

    Honor Strachan

  • Dire Bonmarche sales reflect poor product offer

    Dire Bonmarche sales reflect poor product offer

    A dire H1 performance from Bonmarche, on its first update with Helen Connolly at the helm, with sales falling by £3.9 million on the year, despite the opening of net six new stores and concessions.

    Like-for-like Bonmarche sales declined even further than its revised forecast in September.

    As a result, operating profit fell 62.8 per cent  to £2 million. While external factors such as unseasonal weather and BHS’s extensive closing down sale have taken their toll, the fault ultimately lies with Bonmarche and its lack of a compelling product offer.

    Bonmarche has an opportunity to become the go-to destination for 50+ females, especially given that BHS is no longer trading; however it must act quickly as competition will grow as more players target this lucrative segment, with the likes of JD Williams and Matalan holding potential. With mature shoppers feeling and dressing younger, Bonmarche has its work cut out to sufficiently modernise the brand and increase its relevance among shoppers.

    While the value specialist has made efforts to revamp its offer, and continues to reduce its focus on more traditional product, it has not gone far enough. Introducing more contemporary designs and cuts, and injecting more fashionability and style into its proposition will be key to building appeal among the mature customer base and shaking off its old-fashioned brand image.

    However, as shoppers’ discretionary spend comes under further pressure in 2017, Bonmarche’s value proposition makes it well placed to benefit from consumers trading down. Alongside more weather-appropriate and youthful ranges, Bonmarche needs to showcase its value for money offer, focus on full price sales and drive incremental purchases if it is to get back on track.

  • M&S, Debenhams stand most to gain from BHS breakup

    M&S, Debenhams stand most to gain from BHS breakup

    Only the very bravest of investor should consider retaining BHS in its current dilapidated state. But if such a buyer cannot be found, and a BHS breakup ensues, with the store estate sold to other retailers, Marks & Spencer and Debenhams would be the main beneficiaries.

    As the deadline for bids for BHS looms, hopes are rising that a buyer can be found for the entire store estate and that its 11,000 employees can be protected. Even if such a buyer is found, it is likely to have to conduct major surgery to revive the moribund brand. Verdict data shows that it has consistently lost market share to its competitors in all its key sectors, and its weak multichannel offer, dated brand and underinvested store environment mean any buyer would have to think seriously about retaining the BHS name.

    BHS’ clothing proposition has become ever more irrelevant over the years, and many of its clothing shoppers have already defected to more agile competitors, leading to its market share more than halving in the 10 years to 2015.

    BHS clothing market share 2010-15

    BHS’ predominantly 45+ shopper base enjoy the convenience of shopping for a disparate variety of products under one roof, which means that department store rivals such as Debenhams and M&S would be first in line to benefit from its fallout. The grocers should also receive a much-needed boost given the similarity of their clothing proposition to BHS in terms of design and affordability.

    This is backed up by looking at where BHS clothing shoppers also tend to shop (from Verdict’s March 2016 How Britain Shops survey of 10,000 consumers) – M&S is the clear leader, and should be able to translate this into an increase in market share.

    Where BHS clothing shoppers also shop for clothing

    Clothing specialists at the value end of the market, such as Matalan, Primark and New Look are also likely to benefit; as are online pureplays such as Amazon – albeit to a lesser extent.  It is, however, those retailers that make a concerted effort to draw in BHS shoppers, through customer acquisition initiatives such as targeted promotions or local marketing campaigns that will see the maximum gains.

    BHS homewares market share 2010-15

    BHS’ unopposed trudge toward mediocrity has had a significant impact on where its remaining shoppers are likely to now go for homewares purchases. The retailer’s brand positioning means its shoppers will have also shopped at the ever growing homewares discounter set, like B&M and Home Bargains. However, it is Amazon and Argos, both value focused retailers with modern and extensive delivery/channel offers that have been the main beneficiaries of disaffected BHS shoppers in the past and will undoubtedly be so in the future.

    High street retailers M&S and Debenhams are also in line to see a marginal upswing as high street focused customers seek out alternatives. The former has the most similar customer profile to BHS and hence is more likely to be a first choice. However, M&S has made some strategic moves to appeal to younger, more fashion-conscious homewares shoppers in recent years, therefore BHS’ customers may be a little surprised about what is on offer when they visit, aside from its core bedding and bathroom offer.

    Living room textiles: Home Retail Series market share 2015

    BHS is currently strongest in softer, more aesthetic categories, such as living room textiles and lighting, as opposed to functional products such as cookware. Therefore its demise would be unlikely to have a significant impact on the grocers. Conversely, Dunelm and Next share a similar emphasis on textiles and design-led categories, and as such, their already strong performance in the homewares category is likely to be bolstered further should BHS disappear altogether.