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Tag: Neiman Marcus

  • Neiman Marcus enters bankruptcy protection mode

    Neiman Marcus enters bankruptcy protection mode

    High-end US department-store chain Neiman Marcus entered bankruptcy protection overnight and there are reports that rival Lord & Taylor is planning to follow.

    Laden down with debt, Neiman Marcus has entered Chapter 11, after receiving majority support from lenders and creditors to undergo financial restructuring, substantially reducing its debt load and interest obligations. The company will receive a further $675 million in cash from existing lenders to enable it to continue to operate during the Covid-19 crisis.

    Chairman and CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck, said in a statement that prior to the pandemic’s advent, Neiman Marcus was making “solid progress on our journey to long-term profitable and sustainable growth”.

    But with most of its Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Last Call stores shuttered for more than a month, decimating cash flow, the company is struggling to meet its obligations.

    When Neiman Marcus emerges from Chapter 11 it will be “as a far stronger company,” said van Raemdonck, with no near-term maturities and some $4 billion of its existing debt eliminated.

    “In a world that is changing, we are uniquely positioned to give our brand partners access to our loyal luxury customers like no other company. We will deliver that through the strength of our associate relationships and digital solutions,” he said.

    Neil Saunders, MD of GlobalData Retail, said given the extent of the company’s debt, Neiman Marcus was “always living on borrowed time” and had no option but to enter Chapter 11.

    “In normal circumstances, the debt burden prevented it from turning a profit and restricted its ability to invest and evolve in a time of immense change in retail. The coronavirus crisis has severely exacerbated these problems as sales have dwindled and Neiman Marcus is struggling to pay the interest and capital on what it owes.”

    Saunders said the company was in a much better position than most other US department stores. “Its shops are well maintained and are mostly within strong malls, it has a loyal base of shoppers, occupies a distinct niche in the luxury space, and has made some strides into digital. In short, there is a place for Neiman Marcus in the post-coronavirus world.”

    Saunders said that while Neiman Marcus probably does not need to shut stores – it has relatively few of them and they are in good malls – with more and more sales migrating online the company may need to reduce the size of some of them.

    “There are some shops in the chain that are just too large and which do not attract enough footfall to justify their size. A rightsizing of the store base should be on the cards to optimize productivity.”

    Meanwhile, another high-profile US department-store chain, 200-year-old Lord & Taylor, is reportedly planning to enter Chapter 11 to facilitate the sale of all of its inventory when social-distancing measures are lifted and all stores are able to trade again.

    Liquidators have been appointed to manage going-out-of-business sales at its remaining 38 stores and once stock is gone, the company will close permanently, according to Reuters.

    The company has declined to comment on the reports, however, a spokesperson told Business Insider that the firm is “working through various options at this time”.

    Lord & Taylor has already closed its Instagram and Twitter accounts, further signs of it commencing a winding down of operations.

    Another US department-store chain, Nordstrom, said this week it would close 16 of its 116-strong store network.

    Last month, the Wall Street Journal reported that JC Penney, with about 850 stores across the US, was seeking a loan of between $800 million and $1 billion in order to continue trading through the Covid-19 crisis. The company was already looking to restructure operations and streamline its store network before the pandemic came along.

    And Macy’s, with 551 stores, yesterday said it would delay its first-quarter earnings report to July 1, due to the disruption caused by the pandemic.

    Earlier this week, fashion retailer J Crew entered Chapter 11, weighed down by $2 billion in debt.

  • Neiman Marcus appoints new CEO

    Neiman Marcus appoints new CEO

    It is a new era for Neiman Marcus. The US luxury department store chain has appointed a new CEO, Geoffroy van Raemdonck, in the wake of the departure of current chief executive, Karen Katz.

    Karen Katz, who is retiring after more than 30 years with Neiman Marcus, served in her capacity as CEO for seven years. She will relinquish her role next month, 12 February 2018.

    Having served as President for Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) and global travel retail at Ralph Lauren, van Raemdonck joins Neiman Marcus at a tumultuous time in the company’s history.

    With a solid track record at Ralph Lauren, spearheading the luxury brand’s omnichannel transformation, the luxury executive’s appointment hopes to lead Neiman Marcus into future growth and relieve heavy debts.

    “We are thrilled to welcome Geoffroy to Neiman Marcus, and look forward to extending the company’s positive momentum under his leadership,” said Neiman Marcus chairman David Kaplan.

    “He is a global industry leader and business builder with exceptional vision and energy.”

    Katz will remain on Neiman’s board of directors, and will work with van Raemdonck during the transition process.

    “Geoffroy has an impressive track record of success at luxury brands, and he is the right person to lead the company through this next phase of growth,” Katz said.

    During his career, Van Raemdonck has also spent time at French luxury group Louis Vuitton from 2008 to 2013 and Victoria’s Secret owner, L Brands Inc.

    Neiman Marcus, the Dallas-based group, which owns MyTheresa.com and Bergdorf Goodman, has been struggling since 2013, after Ares and Canadian public pension fund CPPIB acquired it from other private equity firms, and left it with a nearly $5 billion debt load.

    The firm’s most recently financial quarterly result saw losses widen to $26.2 million from $23.5 million over the same period last year, as debt and previously accrued losses continued to weigh on the business.

    However, Neiman Marcus recorded a 4.2% rise in comparable revenue in the first quarter of 2018, which it attributed to its ‘digital first’ strategy and new technology investments.

    Quarterly revenue rose to $1.12 billion, up 3.8% from $1.08 billion a year ago, said the firm.

  • MyTheresa.com takes aim at Korea

    MyTheresa.com takes aim at Korea

    European luxury online retailer MyTheresa.com is launching a Korean-language site.

    Selling luxury womenswear and accessories from such brands as Chloe, Gucci, Miu Miu and Stella McCartney, the e-tailer says it has seen “huge growth potential” in South Korea.

    “The Korean luxury market is moving quickly to digital. Ever since our first activities in Korea we have seen a massive consumer shift to digital and a triple-digit growth in the market,” says MyTheresa.com president Michael Kliger.

    The online fashion destination’s Korean website will offer free exchanges and returns within 30 days, including a free collection service, as well 72-hour deliveries. It aims to offer a more personalised service with a Korean-speaking customer care team.

    Korean customers will be able to pay in euros if using American Express, MasterCard or Visa.

    Launched in 2006, MyTheresa.com was acquired by American company Neiman Marcus Group in 2014. The German multi-brand retailer delivers to more than 120 countries with websites available in Arabic, Chinese, English, French, German and Italian.

  • Ralph Lauren sales tumble

    After a slight uptick in performance at the close of last year, Ralph Lauren sales have tumbled.

    Compared to 2015 – when total revenues declined by 5 per cent, wholesale by 9 per cent, and retail by 3 per cent – the latest sales figures are decidedly weak.

    In the first quarter of the new fiscal year, net revenues fell for a fifth straight quarter, dropping 4 per cent to US$1.6 billion

    The wholesale numbers are wholly understandable and are thanks, in large part, to the car-crash that is the American department store channel. While Ralph Lauren has representation in stores like Macy’s the fact that its sales areas look like a flea-market do nothing to help the brand or its revenues. This is further exacerbated by the generally weak customer traffic at department stores across the past few months.

    The retail numbers are much more of a disappointment, and a concern given that this division delivers the largest chunk of revenue. Ralph Lauren has been keen to emphasise its Way Forward Plan, which it says is changing the operational structure of the business so that it can deliver growth. As much as many of the actions are prudent, it feels like the company has been turning itself around in perpetuity. At some point, these actions need to deliver growth – something they are currently failing to do at either the sales level, or on the bottom line where the company posted a $31 million operating loss for the quarter.

    Decisive action is needed to put the brand on the right track. This includes withdrawing from department stores like Macy’s which are now actively damaging the Ralph Lauren brand, and focusing only on more upscale department stores like Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus as sales channels.

    A proper brand review is also needed as Ralph Lauren has become muddled and confused and is simply not competing effectively against brands like Vineyard Vines, which have good traction with younger, high spending consumers. Some action has already been taken to simplify the brand structure but much more clarity is needed in communicating the various parts of the offer to consumers. At present the various parts of Ralph Lauren are too hit and miss.

    Reconnecting with younger consumers is also a priority. Rather like Tiffany, Ralph Lauren is seen as an older, established brand that, while not actively disliked, is less relevant than it was a generation ago. Spin-offs like Club Monaco and RRL have helped to remedy this, but the company needs to put more energy and effort around extending and expanding their reach.

    That said, current plans should deliver some cost savings over the course of this fiscal as operations are streamlined. However, expect the plan’s impact on revenue to be negative across at least the next quarter.

    • Håkon Helgesen is a retail analyst at Conlumino.