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Tag: fashion retail

  • Uniqlo to Double Japanese Flagship Count to 20 in Ten-Year Strategy Shift

    Uniqlo to Double Japanese Flagship Count to 20 in Ten-Year Strategy Shift

    Uniqlo will double its network of Japanese flagship stores to roughly 20 locations over the next decade as parent Fast Retailing pivots away from standard shopping mall outlets.

    The apparel group currently runs about 10 flagship or flagship-equivalent premises across domestic city centres, anchored by 3,000-square-metre destinations in Tokyo’s Ginza and Osaka’s Umeda districts. Future domestic openings will focus on major regional hubs such as Nagoya and Sapporo alongside central Tokyo retail corridors, targeting local foot traffic and spending from inbound foreign tourists.

    “Every major city in Japan needs a flagship store,” Fast Retailing chairman and chief executive Tadashi Yanai said. He added that the group sees little value in opening conventional stores that function solely as transaction counters.

    Demographic pressures reshape store networks

    As of late May, Uniqlo operated 785 retail locations across Japan. That count reflects an 8 per cent drop from its peak of roughly 850 outlets in August 2013, following years of flat domestic store numbers.

    A shrinking domestic population and the rise of digital commerce have forced the company to rethink its physical footprint. Stores in Japan now operate less as basic distribution points and more as brand showrooms where customers handle garments and interact with services before buying across omnichannel channels.

    Exporting the Western retail model

    The domestic overhaul mirrors Fast Retailing’s recent playbook in Europe and the United States, where it secured historic buildings and prominent high-street addresses. Those two Western regions together account for nearly 20 per cent of total group revenue and have delivered double-digit sales growth since the pandemic.

    RetailNews Asia views this as a clear signal that the era of aggressive suburban store expansion in mature Asian markets is over. Just as department stores in regional Japan have retreated, fast-fashion operators must concentrate capital into higher-yielding, destination-scale flagships that can capture international tourism spend while digital channels absorb routine replenishment sales.

    Fast Retailing is also preparing to apply this revised large-format strategy to its broader store networks across Southeast Asia and mainland China over the coming fiscal years.

  • Ten Australian Fashion Designers Head to Hong Kong for Centre Stage

    Ten Australian Fashion Designers Head to Hong Kong for Centre Stage

    Ten Australian fashion designers will travel to Hong Kong this September to present their collections at the Centre Stage trade fair. The trade mission aims to connect independent labels directly with regional department store buyers, boutique owners, and commercial distributors across North and Southeast Asia.

    Organised by the Australian Fashion Council under its Global Gateways programme, the delegation includes Gary Bigeni, Buluuy Mirrii, Van Brussel, Asiyam, Briar Will, Mos the Label, Niamh Galea, Permanent Vacation, Viceta Wang, and West 14th. The show runs inside a dedicated pavilion at the event, alongside an industry reception hosted by Australia’s consul-general in Hong Kong, Gareth Williams.

    Targeting Asian Wholesale Accounts

    Canberra is funding the initiative through the Trade Diversification Network’s Accessing New Markets Initiative. The programme helps mid-tier apparel companies reduce their exposure to sluggish domestic consumer spending by establishing wholesale accounts in higher-growth Asian markets.

    Austrade trade diversification taskforce general manager Jay Meek pointed to previous cohort transitions, including designer labels securing follow-on pop-up retail spaces in Tokyo, as the benchmark for measuring commercial returns from the Hong Kong trade floor.

    The Regional Buying Circuit

    Hong Kong serves as an entry hub for global labels testing appetite across Greater China and regional luxury stockists before committing to local retail infrastructure. For Asian multibrand retailers and luxury department stores, bringing in niche Australian labels provides exclusive inventory differentiation against dominant European luxury houses.

    The 10 labels will meet buyers during the September trade show schedule, with initial Asian wholesale orders and regional delivery windows expected to begin rolling out for early 2027 collections.

  • South Korea Retail Sales Rose 6.4% in July on Summer Spending

    South Korea Retail Sales Rose 6.4% in July on Summer Spending

    South Korea’s major retailers increased combined sales by 6.4 percent year-on-year in July. Demand for vacation gear, imported fashion, and food delivery services drove the rise.

    Internet platforms handled the bulk of that growth. They captured 60.8 percent of total retail revenue during the month, according to data from the Ministry of Trade, Industry and Energy.

    Department Stores and Convenience Chains Expand

    Brick-and-mortar turnover climbed 3.2 percent from a year earlier. Both department stores and convenience chains extended their unbroken run of year-on-year growth to 13 consecutive months.

    Department stores posted the sharpest gains offline, with sales jumping 17.9 percent. Demand rose across every major category. Imported apparel, summer travel gear, and cooling appliances led the expansion.

    Convenience stores generated a 1.1 percent sales increase over the same period. Foot traffic slipped. Higher spending per transaction kept overall takings positive.

    Online Channels Take Larger Revenue Share

    Digital platforms posted an 8.5 percent revenue increase compared with July last year. Food delivery orders, packaged groceries, and home appliances recorded the fastest category gains across web storefronts.

    Consumer habits in the country continue to split. Digital channels dominate everyday replenishment, while physical stores rely on experiential shopping and premium apparel to draw spending.

    Trade ministry officials will publish the August retail index next month. That report will show whether back-to-school shopping and late-summer promotions sustained the sales momentum.

  • Esprit Posts HK$87.7 Million First-Half Loss as Licensing Pivot Stumbles

    Esprit Posts HK$87.7 Million First-Half Loss as Licensing Pivot Stumbles

    Esprit Holdings swung back into the red with a net loss of HK$87.7 million (US$11.2 million) for the first half of 2026. Revenue for the six months to June totaled just HK$14.9 million ($1.9 million), reflecting the brand’s radical downsizing into a pure licensing shell.

    The result reverses a brief HK$1.3 million profit recorded a year earlier. Esprit has booked a full-year profit only once since 2016, racking up more than $1 billion in cumulative losses while shuttering store networks and liquidating units across Europe and North America. In June, the company deconsolidated its Canadian business following local insolvency filings.

    Balance-sheet cash generation was minimal, with net cash inflow standing at $712,000 for the period. Total assets stood at HK$295.45 million against liabilities of HK$232.19 million, supported by HK$335 million in total credit facilities, of which HK$125.13 million was drawn at the end of June.

    Accumulating Legal Claims

    Legal liabilities from defunct operational entities continue to drain group reserves. In July, the International Court of Arbitration ordered Esprit to pay $3.93 million and HK$40,900 plus interest over disputed 2024 legal fees, forcing an additional HK$22.5 million charge on top of earlier provisions.

    A Dutch bankruptcy trustee handling the collapse of Esprit Europe is seeking up to 49 million euros ($57.1 million) over contested intra-company transfers. Esprit contends the claim is unenforceable in Hong Kong courts. A separate dispute over an early lease termination poses an estimated HK$14 million exposure.

    Retail Partners and Royalties

    Under acting chairman Bradley Wright, the company has staked its survival entirely on collecting royalties from third-party partners. Licensees handle inventory, logistics, and store operations across Asia and the Americas while Esprit trades as an asset-light trademark owner.

    In Hong Kong, Esprit’s licensee opened a second location with a flagship store at Olympian City. Mainland Chinese partners sell across Tmall, Douyin, Vip.com, and JD.com while pushing the brand into activewear. In North America, the local licensee placed retro logo fleece sweatshirts into Costco in the United States and Walmart in Canada in July.

    The shift mirrors the path taken by troubled apparel names across the region that abandoned direct retail in Asian markets in favor of wholesale brand licensing. Stripping away direct operating costs lowers overhead quickly, but the model leaves Esprit dependent on wholesale discounters and cut-price online channels that risk diluting whatever brand equity remains from its 1980s peak.

    Attention turns next to the legal jurisdiction dispute in Hong Kong, where proceedings on the 49 million euro Dutch trustee claim will test whether Esprit’s offshore corporate structure can protect its remaining HK$63.26 million in net assets from European creditors.

  • Giordano Profit Drops 9% to HK$121 Million as Middle East Sales Slump

    Giordano Profit Drops 9% to HK$121 Million as Middle East Sales Slump

    Giordano’s first-half profit after tax dropped 9 per cent to HK$121 million as revenue slipped 1 per cent to HK$1.9 billion (US$243 million). A sharp sales contraction across Gulf Cooperation Council markets dragged down the Hong Kong-listed retailer during the six months ended June 30.

    Management pinned the downturn on Middle Eastern disruptions that began hitting regional trade in March. Excluding the Gulf business, underlying revenue rose 0.4 per cent, supported by steady demand in core Asian territories and a 12.5 per cent expansion in online sales.

    Pricing Shifts and Margin Gains

    Gross margin climbed 1.6 per cent during the period. The margin improvement followed a deliberate channel shift away from lower-margin wholesale volume, tighter product pricing, and cost reductions across production.

    For Asian apparel chains running international store networks, regional diversification usually provides insulation from domestic slumps, but leaves earnings vulnerable to distant geopolitical shocks. Giordano protected its unit margins through tighter price discipline, yet lower store turnover in the Middle East quickly eroded operating profit.

    Rebranding and Western Push

    The business is currently in the second year of its five-year “Beyond Boundaries” restructuring plan. Management wants to restore top-line momentum by overhauling existing lines and entering new regions.

    Execution now turns to the rollout of the Giordano 2 brand refresh, while the company prepares digital launches in North America and Europe alongside a brand relaunch across India.

  • Cettire Net Loss Widens to $8.5 Million as US Tariffs Hit Sales

    Cettire Net Loss Widens to $8.5 Million as US Tariffs Hit Sales

    Australian luxury platform Cettire posted an annual net loss of $8.5 million for the year ended June 30, more than trebling its deficit from a year earlier.

    The loss widened from $2.6 million in the previous financial year as sales revenue dropped 3.2 per cent to $718.4 million. Gross revenue fell 2 per cent, though it posted a small gain when measured on a constant currency basis.

    Tariff Friction and Middle East Disruption

    Active customer numbers fell 8 per cent to 605,000 during the twelve-month period. Management attributed the decline to weaker demand in the United States and a deliberate cut in paid marketing expenditure.

    The platform ran into direct regulatory friction in its largest market after US authorities removed the de minimis import duty exemption. In the second half of the financial year, consumer sentiment in high-growth Middle Eastern markets also weakened as regional conflict disrupted cross-border trade.

    During the period, US tariff changes, including the impact from the removal of the de minimis exemption, contributed to ongoing challenges in our largest market.

    Dean Mintz, founder and chief executive of Cettire, said US tariff refunds helped ease pressure late in the financial year.

    Momentum Outside North America

    Business outside the United States delivered better results, with sales revenue rising 14 per cent across the rest of the company’s geographic footprint. The expansion beyond North America cushioned the top-line decline and delivered market share gains across secondary regions.

    Pure-play luxury aggregators in Asia-Pacific have spent the past two years wrestling with excess inventory and fading post-pandemic demand. Cettire’s reliance on cross-border drop-shipping makes it unusually sensitive to customs thresholds, putting operational execution under scrutiny as border rules tighten.

    Attention now turns to trading updates in early fiscal 2027 to see whether the 14 per cent growth rate outside the US can offset lingering drag in North America.

  • City Chic Lifts Underlying Earnings 92% to $12.3 Million Despite US Sales Drop

    City Chic Lifts Underlying Earnings 92% to $12.3 Million Despite US Sales Drop

    City Chic Collective nearly doubled its underlying core earnings to $12.3 million in the fiscal year ended June 28, despite total group revenue slipping 3 per cent to $130.5 million.

    Margin expansion and strict operational discipline drove underlying earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortisation up 92 per cent from the previous year.

    Australia and New Zealand anchored the turnaround. Revenue across the home market rose 7.6 per cent to $113.8 million, with comparable sales lifting 5.6 per cent across physical stores and digital channels. Higher average selling prices and steady customer acquisition cushioned the group while its overseas operations took a hit.

    Retreat from American Tariffs

    The United States delivered a sharp contraction. US sales plunged 42 per cent after management deliberately throttled purchasing activity to limit exposure to import tariff volatility.

    To fix the unit economics, City Chic converted its US Amazon operation from a wholesale setup to a direct marketplace model. Group inventory fell 11 per cent to $24.1 million by the close of the financial year, reflecting reduced capital tied up in North American stock.

    The Sydney-based apparel retailer has deployed automated forecasting and software tools to sharpen buying decisions and lower product return rates. Chief executive Phil Ryan said the company has built a simpler and more resilient operating base after clearing out high-risk inventory channels.

    Trading Momentum in Early FY27

    Cross-border apparel brands have faced intense margin pressure across international channels over recent reporting cycles, forcing operators to protect local margins rather than chase unprofitable foreign volume. City Chic’s retrenchment in North America reflects a broader shift among Australasian specialty chains refocusing on core domestic trade.

    Early numbers indicate the strategy is holding. Comparable store sales in Australia and New Zealand rose 11.4 per cent through the first seven weeks of FY27, with management forecasting a return to revenue and margin growth in the US during the first half.

  • Korean Fashion Labels Cluster in Seoul’s Hannam District for Flagship Retail

    Korean Fashion Labels Cluster in Seoul’s Hannam District for Flagship Retail

    Independent Korean fashion labels are securing standalone flagship stores across Seoul’s hillside Hannam-dong district, establishing physical footprints along Itaewon-ro to capture rising domestic and inbound tourist spending. The neighborhood offers an alternative to the crowded retail pop-ups of Seongsu-dong, giving younger brands space for full-collection stores and dedicated hospitality concepts.

    Womenswear label Glowny anchors the strip with a 660-square-meter flagship, its first physical location before opening a second store in Apgujeong. Founded in 2020 by sisters Choi Jane and Choi Ji-ho, the label built an audience of nearly 400,000 social media followers on basic jersey lines and low-rise denim before scaling into multi-level retail.

    Celebrity Placement Drives Footwear and Apparel Sales

    Physical stores in the quarter rely heavily on styling seen on Korean pop performers. Open YY, operated by sisters Kim Ji-young and Kim Bo-young, pairs its runway apparel and in-store cafe with sell-out shoe lines, including ballet boots that emptied inventory after appearances during Paris Fashion Week. The store combines seasonal ready-to-wear with swimwear and footwear on open floor plans.

    Streetwear outfit SunburnProject sells graphic apparel alongside accessories like its multi-way M.O.S Bag, supported by licensed partnerships including a collaborative line with American character brand Paul Frank. Nearby, Davichi singer Kang Min-kyung opened a dedicated Hannam outpost for her brand Avie Muah in June, selling higher-priced tailoring alongside metal phone accessories.

    Global Retail Roadmaps and Category Expansion

    For several emerging operators, Hannam flagships serve as testing grounds before international rollouts. TooMuchTax, launched in 2023 around bodywear and swimwear, merchandises its hotel-lounge concept store with individual displays for waffle knitwear and scarves. The label plans to run a US pop-up next year ahead of a targeted permanent American store opening in 2028.

    Across menswear, brand Pottery occupies an entire multi-story building focused on workwear and durable textiles, incorporating lounge space to increase dwell time. Multi-brand retailer Beaker provides broader distribution for domestic labels alongside international home goods from Tekla and Ilkwang Lighting, while makeup brand Hince operates a standalone cosmetic store offering custom palette formulation.

  • Levi’s Expands India Store Footprint and Women’s Wear to Chase Global Sales Target

    Levi’s Expands India Store Footprint and Women’s Wear to Chase Global Sales Target

    Levi Strauss & Co. Is expanding retail floor space across major Indian cities, targeting higher-margin women’s apparel and non-denim categories to fuel regional revenue growth.

    The apparel maker recently crossed 500 stores in India, which now ranks among its top six markets globally. Rather than simply adding shop fronts, the company is increasing the square footage of existing and new locations in metros including Mumbai, Bengaluru, and Delhi, alongside secondary hubs such as Chandigarh, Pune, Ahmedabad, and Chennai.

    Direct-to-consumer sales through its larger ICON store format now generate approximately 20 per cent of the brand’s India DTC revenue. Hiren Gor, managing director for South Asia, Middle East, and Africa at Levi Strauss & Co., noted that adding retail space in high-performing locations delivers equivalent commercial returns to opening separate doors.

    Category Shift Toward Women and Tops

    Consumer buying habits in India are diverging sharply from global denim baselines. Indian shoppers purchase more than one top for every bottom, compared to a global average of one top for every three bottoms sold.

    Demand patterns reflect that split. While both denim and non-denim lines are expanding at mid-double-digit rates, women’s apparel is advancing at high double digits. The company’s upscale casual line, Red Loop, now accounts for roughly 15 per cent of its Indian menswear sales, also expanding at a high double-digit pace.

    Supply chain localization underpins the category push. More than 95 per cent of the products Levi’s sells in India are manufactured domestically, supported by an in-house design team of 10 that creates 85 per cent of its product range specifically for the local market.

    Direct Retailing and Regional Reach

    International fashion labels in South Asia have routinely faced floor space constraints when attempting to sell complete lifestyle collections rather than single staple items. Shifting capital expenditure into large-format direct retail allows multinational brands to show complete lines, capture higher basket values, and protect margin against wholesale discount cycles.

    Parent group Levi Strauss & Co. Recorded $6.3 billion in global revenue for fiscal year 2025. The company is leaning on higher square footage and expanded apparel assortments in India to close the gap toward its stated $10 billion global revenue target.

  • Downsizing and decluttering will ‘remake retail’

    Downsizing and decluttering will ‘remake retail’

    There’s a new consumer mantra: “when in doubt, toss it out”.

    With pressure on housing internationally, shoppers are buying fewer higher-quality items to save space – and that’s is expected to have long-term ramifications for retailers, says a new report.

    Decluttering: Anatomy of a Consumer Trend and How Retailers Can Win, from international think tank Fung Global Retail & Technology says while for some people downsizing and organising belongings is a matter of choice, for others the process is a necessity as rising housing prices force people to live in smaller homes, says the report.

    Others are focussing on sustainability and the ethical standards of manufacturers, writes Fung Global Retail & Technology MD Deborah Weinswig. Retailers, especially those in fast fashion that have relied on consumers buying a larger number of lower-priced items, will have to adapt to changing consumer needs and values.

    “Consumers’ future priorities will be ethics, a concept of ‘disownership’ and sustainability,” Weinswig writes. “Retailers … should align their product and service offerings more closely within the values of their target customers.”

    While the idea of having with fewer possessions has been around for centuries, the term “declutter” was born in the 1970s and the concept has continued to gain popularity, she writes. Decluttering resonates particularly strongly with urban dwellers, who struggle to fit belongings into small apartments.

    Now millennials, the largest generation in history, are more consciously frugal in terms of living arrangements, product consumption and travel expenses. The growth of the “sharing economy” has also resulted in the popularity of platforms such as eBay, Etsy and Craigslist, further eroding the purchase of new products.

    Long-term results

    Weinswig believes this will have long-term results for more traditional retailers and brands, especially in clothing. Fast fashion had helped apparel consumption skyrocket over previous decades. The average woman owned 120 items of clothing last year, up from 36 items in 1930, according to Cladwell, a company that helps users create their own capsule wardrobe. However, this trend may be reversing. A growing focus on ethical consumption has created consumer concern about hiring practices – sometimes involving children – in fast-fashion manufacturing.

    Some retailers are responding to the evolving preferences of shoppers. Patagonia’s Common Threads initiative provides a framework for responsible consumption based on five precepts: reduce, repair, reuse, recycle and reimagine. Japanese retailer Muji offers waste-reducing packaging, minimalist housewares and eco-friendly products.

    Other brands espousing minimalism include Scandinavia’s Bang & Olufsen and Cos, Calvin Klein in the US, and Japan’s Uniqlo.

    “Decluttering is a long-term trend that is here to stay,” Weinswig writes. “Retailers can capitalise on this opportunity by responding to the evolving preferences of their customers, and seeking ways to influence consumer behaviour.”

    Based in New York, Fung Global Retail & Technology has a research team across New York, London and Hong Kong that follows retail and tech trends. Weinswig is a former Wall Street and retail tech analyst and startup adviser.

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  • Losses force Esprit to downsize

    Losses force Esprit to downsize

    Following a first half loss of HK$238 million (US$30.6 million), fashion retailer Esprit plans to prune unprofitable outlets while improving productivity.

    “In the very short term, we will continue to see the closure of unprofitable spaces from our retail store network and our wholesale partners’ points of sale,” the company says in its interim results announcement. It expects these actions will help group turnover remain stable although it may be reduced.

    During the six months, the company posted a 13 per cent dip in sales to HK$9.31 billion. It says the losses are partly the result of the unfavourable impact of the euro depreciating against the Hong Kong dollar.
    With a loss per share of 12 cents, the directors did not declare an interim dividend.

    Meanwhile, the company has seen positive retail sales growth through both online and offline channels, particularly in Europe. Its challenges lie in its wholesale business, currency risks and lower performance in Asia.
    It says the underperformance in the Asia-Pacific region was partly attributable to a combination of volatility in the financial markets, the economic slowdown in China and the devaluation of the yuan, which significantly dampened consumer sentiment.

    Esprit’s largest geographic market, Germany, had HK$4.44 billion turnover, representing year-on-year growth of 1.5 per cent. For the rest of Europe the turnover of $3.38 billion was down from $3.92 billion of the previous year’s second half. Turnover in Asia Pacific amounted to $1.42 billion, a year-on-year drop of 6 per cent.
    Esprit says it faces challenges ahead with volatility in the financial markets and economic uncertainty that could further dampen consumer sentiment, especially in Asia. And if the euro continues to be weak, it would put pressure on the group’s gross profit margin.

    Meanwhile, the group is expecting an estimated net gain of about $725 million from the sale of six wholly owned property subsidiaries in Hong Kong, a deal finalised in December. Once the sales is settled, the group plans to lease back most of the properties.

    Also the group has introduced efficiencies in its product development and supply chain processes, as well as developing a “more ambitious” commercial strategy using an omnichannel model. It has been using an intensive brand-marketing campaign since September to strengthen and rejuvenate its image.

    Already it has seen positive sales performances, plus increased customer loyalty and better online and mobile sales.

    “Driving these productivity gains further remains our top priority in the near term,” says the company, noting an increase to 49 per cent of eCommerce sales by mobile devices and a 92 per cent growth in smartphone sales.

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