Category: Fashion

Retail News Asia is committed to providing both local and global retailers with the latest Fashion news throughout the Asian market. This on a daily base.

  • Moncler starting fragrance range with Interparfums

    Moncler starting fragrance range with Interparfums

    Italian luxury fashion brand Moncler is partnering with Interparfums to launch its first fragrance line.

    Under the partnership, Moncler will launch perfumes and fragrances-related products manufactured by Interparfums in Moncler mono-brand stores and other selected resellers.

    “Interparfums’ renowned expertise and creativity make it the ideal partner to develop a fragrance that is perfectly aligned with Moncler’s DNA and unique identity,” said Remo Ruffini, chairman and CEO of Moncler.

    “The launch of Moncler’s first fragrance line is consistent with our selective brand extension strategy further enriching the clients’ experience with the brand.”

    According to the company, the exclusive partnership will last until the end of 2026, with a potential five-year extension. Moncler’s first fragrance line is scheduled to launch in the first quarter of 2022.

  • Chow Tai Fook posts strong profit despite retail turmoil

    Chow Tai Fook posts strong profit despite retail turmoil

    Hong Kong-headquartered jeweler Chow Tai Fook has ended the financial year with a US$374 million profit attributable to shareholders.

    While that is down 36.6 percent on last year, and its worst annual result in a decade, it underpins the strength of the company at a time that retail sales in Hong Kong and China have been ravaged by Covid-19.

    Sales for the year to March fell 14.9 percent to $7.3 billion, with Hong Kong and Macau hardest hit, down 38.7 percent, and on the mainland by 15.1 percent.

    Besides ongoing social unrest in Hong Kong since June last year, which decimated the numbers of inbound tourists from Mainland China, and Covid-19 impacting in the first quarter of this calendar year, rising gold prices also dented consumer demand for jewelry.

    In its earnings statement, Chow Tai Fook said that while Mainland China operations “suffered severely” in the final quarter due to the pandemic, the company has seen signs of recovery as restrictions on shopping and social distancing were lifted and its short-term business outlook is “cautiously optimistic”.

    “We shall continue our market expansion strategy through franchise model as the situation stabilizes and the online-offline channel integrations to take advantage of the digital trends. Also, we shall continue our multi-brand strategy to better serve each unique customer segment.” However, the company expects the Hong Kong and Macau market to remain challenging in the foreseeable future.

    “As the customer base has been reshaped, we shall continue to consolidate our retail network, rationalize cost structure and refine our business strategies. Apart from focusing on store efficiency, we also place an emphasis on transforming our current business model through innovation and technology in order to enhance retail experience, improve operational efficiency and strengthen our market leadership position.”

  • Smart clothing set to become a US$11bn market

    Smart clothing set to become a US$11bn market

    Annual sales of integrated fitness apparel – smart clothing – is set to multiply from around US$1 billion this year to $11 billion in 2025.

    Analysis by Juniper Research revealed that explosive growth is likely to see smart clothing become the largest fitness wearable sector in terms of revenue, as traditional consumer wearables are overtaken.

    The firm’s report finds that wearables have been diversifying for several years, developing to analyze cadence, exercise form and precise positioning during exercise.

    Recent technological innovations delivering personalized health-and-fitness insights have threatened the established position of leading manufacturers such as Fitbit, which continue to emphasize the breadth of features over personalized offerings, to their detriment

    Traditionally, subscription models have not been an effective approach to the health and fitness wearables industry, but devices providing coaching and feedback are likely to change this. As the market changes, such additional opportunities in terms of business approach will become more available to vendors, according to Juniper.

  • Ecoalf opens first Japanese flagship

    Ecoalf opens first Japanese flagship

    Spanish fashion brand Ecoalf has opened its first Japanese flagship store, in Tokyo.

    Located in Shibuya district, the Ecoalf store spans two floors and offers a wide selection of products including the label’s latest collection.

    Designed by Japanese architect Yohei Sakamaki, the store features a sustainability concept ‘Sharing Ecology’, using natural materials such as Japanese bamboo, stone and sand. Interior features include a giant rock named “Date-Kanmuri-Ishi” and wooden panels to create a warm yet modern ambiance.

    A black staircase leads customers to the upper floor which is dedicated to #Actnows, a monthly event held by the brand to raise awareness of sustainability issues.

    “Our aim is to raise awareness of the need to protect the planet and we will continue to accelerate this message,” said Javier Goyenechem, president and founder of Ecoalf.

  • Inditex eyes online presense and about to close 1200 smaller stores

    Inditex eyes online presense and about to close 1200 smaller stores

    Inditex plans to close up to 1200 smaller stores globally as it invests more than €2.7 billion in expanding its online capacity and focusing on an integrated network of large-format stores.

    Unveiling a strategic plan for the next two years, Inditex executive chairman Pablo Isla said the company expects online sales to account for 25 percent of total revenue by 2022, compared with just 14 percent last year.

    Most of the stores set for closure are older shops carrying banners other than Zara. They collectively account for 5 to 6 percent of total sales.

    Ultimately, Inditex will have a network of between 6700 and 6900 stores, down from the 7412 it operates today. About 450 new stores will be opened fitted with “all the latest sales integration technology” and effectively replacing the smaller-sized stores, which Isla says are less well-positioned to offer new-generation customer experiences.

    “This strategy is a culmination of the project the company has been investing in steadily and significantly since 2012, a project that will transform its profile notably,” said Isla. “The overriding goal between now and 2022 is to speed up full implementation of our integrated-store concept, driven by the notion of being able to offer our customers uninterrupted service no matter where they find themselves, on any device and at any time of the day.”

    The company believes that boosting online sales, underpinned by an integrated online-store network, with larger, higher-quality stores, will help generate 4 to 6 percent like-for-like sales growth annually.

    Part of the plan will see a boost to Inditex’s Bershka, Pull&Bear and Stradivarius brands in China and Japan.

    Inditex’s two-year strategy was revealed alongside the company’s first-quarter results announcement where it said it had limited the overall decline in sales to 44 percent in the wake of the Covid-19 crisis, despite 88 percent of its store network being shuttered at some point. Online sales surged 50 percent during the quarter and by 95 percent year on year in April.

    Global sales totaled €3.3 billion in the three months to April 30, gross margin remained at 58.4 percent of sales and inventories reduced by 10 percent during the past year.

    A net loss of €175 million was recorded and the company has made a provision of €308 million related to its restructuring plan.

    Inditex closed the year with a cash position of €5.8 billion, compared to €6.7 billion a year earlier.

  • FJ Benjamin launches five online stores

    FJ Benjamin launches five online stores

    Southeast Asian fashion group FJ Benjamin opened five new online stores for recognized international fashion labels, with more to come, as it pivoted online in the wake of trading restrictions during the Covid-19 crisis.

    Brand owners typically grant distributors only brick-and-mortar rights and prior to the pandemic, FJ Benjamin had e-commerce rights for only Superdry, the British streetwear brand. So when stores were shuttered due to government social-distancing measures, the Singapore company could not immediately turn online to compensate for suspended in-store sales.

    However, the company has since sealed deals with Guess, Casio, Pretty Ballerina, and Anti-Social Social Club to sell online. FJ Benjamin’s IT staff worked around the clock to develop stores for the brands and get them up and running as permission was granted by brand owners.

    Further sites are imminent for US Polo Association, Rebecca Minkoff, Moby, Lancel, Axel Arigato, Barbara Sturm, and “a well-known European lifestyle cosmetics brand,” said FJ Benjamin Group COO Douglas Benjamin.

    Superdry launched online in Singapore in June last year and in Malaysia last January. “The results were very encouraging,” Benjamin said.

    When the pandemic hit, FJ Benjamin-run stores in Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia were shuttered for much of the past two months. So Benjamin quickly pursued e-commerce rights for other brands.

    “We are pleased that we are now able to offer the convenience of e-commerce to our customers for five brands, and will be able to do so very soon for at least seven more, including some new labels which will make online debuts only,” he said.

    “In the future, we may consider opening brick-and-mortar stores if it proves to be a viable option depending on the Covid-19 situation, performance of the brand online, and future rental expectations,” he said.

    Benjamin said overseas brand principals understood the challenges faced by the group amid the pandemic and readily agreed to release the online channel rights in its markets.

    He says a new focus online will not see less attention to physical stores, although the closure of some non-performing outlets in the three markets is inevitable.

    We will definitely be culling stores that are not performing to expectations, where we cannot be profitable either because of high cost or low volume.”

    However, he believes physical stores will always be relevant in the fashion industry.

    “People still want to go down to stores to touch and feel, but there is a new comfort that has emerged among consumers with regards to shopping online.”

    FJ Benjamin has adopted a click-and-pick omnichannel approach to its online stores which allows customers to buy online and collect or return items in physical stores, where they are available.

    Benjamin expects consumers will continue to shop online once the pandemic passes as consumers have got used to the channel.

    “We believe this shift to online shopping, although hastened by the Covid-19 pandemic, will be sustainable and scalable.”

    Those advantages include being able to shop 24-seven with different access points to their preferred brands.

  • Struggling Le Saunda warns of yet another loss

    Struggling Le Saunda warns of yet another loss

    Late last month, embattled Hong Kong-based shoe retailer Le Saunda announced its third consecutive annual loss. Yesterday it flagged yet another, at least for the first half.

    In a stock-exchange filing, Le Saunda’s board advised that during the three months to May 31, the group’s self-owned offline retail business saw same-store sales decline 32.7 percent and total sales down 38.2 percent, due to widespread store closures in the last year. Online sales fell 16.4 percent.

    While nonspecific about the scale of the loss in the current half-year, chairman James Ngai said the results would be impacted in part by a US$5 million redundancy bill related to the closure of its factory in Shunde, Guangdong last month. The company is now contracting out all production to third-party suppliers.

    However the result was largely caused by the coronavirus pandemic, he said. “The expected net loss is primarily attributable to the significant decrease of the group’s total retail sales due to the adverse impact on the retail market that brought by the outbreak of Covid-19 epidemic since late January.”

    As at the end of May, Le Saunda had 414 retail outlets trading in Mainland China, Hong Kong and Macau, 72 fewer than a year earlier. The majority – 368 – were self-owned stores, the balance franchised outlets on the mainland.

    During the first half of last year, Le Saunda was showing signs of improvement, recording a profit of $337,000, however in June ongoing protests inHong Kong saw retail sales decline as shops were often shuttered and inbound mainland tourist numbers declined.

    Le Saunda trades under the brands Le Saunda, Linea Rosa, Pitti Donna and CNE.

  • Mulberry to cull global workforce

    Mulberry to cull global workforce

    Mulberry is culling about 25 percent of its staff worldwide as it right-sizes in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic. In a statement, the UK-based fashion brand said that while it has been able to reopen most of its stores in China and South Korea – and some in Europe and Canada – the majority remain closed.

    “We reacted swiftly to manage the impact of Covid-19 and continue to execute a well-developed plan to manage capital, reduce costs and maintain a robust liquidity position,” said CEO Thierry Andretta.

    However, despite the good performance of Mulberry’s sector-leading digital and omnichannel presence, and a global network of concessions, the shutting of physical stores has had – and will continue to have – a marked effect on the business.

    A consultation process on proposals to reduce employee numbers across the global business has begun.

    “This has been an incredibly difficult decision for us to make, but it is necessary for us to respond to these challenging market conditions, protect the maximum number of jobs possible and safeguard the future of the business. We remain confident in the strength of the Mulberry brand and our strategy over the long-term,” said Andretta.

    While digital channels have continued to trade without interruption throughout the pandemic and their sales were good, they could not fully offset the decrease in demand experienced from store closures.

    In the UK, Mulberry will begin to phase the reopening of stores from June 15, but with additional safety standards and procedures put in place to ensure they operate safely.

    The brand has also taken steps to manage its inventory levels in line with anticipated lesser demand.

    “Given the uncertainty as to the impact and duration of Covid-19 on the company and the wider economy and the consequential effect on demand, we expect the recovery in our overall sales levels over the medium term to be gradual. Even once stores reopen, social-distancing measures, reduced tourist and footfall levels will continue to impact our revenue,” the company said.

    Cutting staff levels would help Mulberry to manage its operations and cost base to ensure the company is the correct size and structure to reflect market conditions, said Andretta.

  • Dickson Concepts’ retail arm loses $US27m as tourist trade evaporates

    Dickson Concepts’ retail arm loses $US27m as tourist trade evaporates

    Hong Kong retailer Dickson Concepts describes the territory’s retail environment as “the most challenging the group has ever faced”.

    The company’s retail division suffered a US$27 million loss last year, largely attributable to the impact of Covid-19 and protest activity reducing the number of inbound mainland visitors.

    However, the company increased its overall profit by 57 percent to $83.3 million, based on a solid performance by its investment division which finished the year with a surplus of  $110 million after one-off gains on property disposals.

    The company said the group achieved significant growth in both sales and profit during the initial months of the financial year.

    “However, the retail climate in Hong Kong deteriorated significantly thereafter and Mainland Chinese tourists all but disappeared. As a result of the Covid-19 pandemic outbreak in January, the group faced the worst local consumer sentiment in its history. Tourist arrivals have literally come to a complete halt, and despite achieving sales at the expense of margins, the group’s turnover in Hong Kong suffered a 24.9-per-cent decrease in the year ended March 31.”

    Dickson Concepts has 61 stores, 29 of them in Mainland China, 24 in Taiwan, and eight in Hong Kong, including the upmarket Harvey Norman department stores at Central and Admiralty. Geographically, Hong Kong accounts for 81.6 percent of sales and Taiwan 15.6 percent. Watches and jewelry represent 49 percent of retail turnover, cosmetics, and beauty products 29.6 percent and fashion 21.1 percent – all categories heavily reliant on tourists, especially mainlanders.

    In a statement, the company said it expects a “slow and long path” to recovery for the territory’s retail sector.

    “Our group expects the retail market in Hong Kong to remain extremely depressed for the foreseeable future as we expect local consumer sentiment to be very poor until the economy recovers. We do not expect tourism to recover in any meaningful way in the foreseeable future since even if quarantine and social distancing measures are fully lifted, it will likely take time for tourists to feel safe to travel again.”

    However, the company said that with net cash reserves of $292 million and a strong balance sheet, it is in a strong position to cope with the risk of a worldwide economic slowdown and the current challenging retail climate.

  • Taiwan’s O’right makes Japanese start

    Taiwan’s O’right makes Japanese start

    Taiwanese beauty brand O’right is to make its debut in Japan this week. O’right’s first store will open in Isetan Shinjuku on June 10, followed by a second store in Yurakucho Marui the next day.

    “It shows the brand’s confidence in Japan’s path to economic recovery and its determination to establish a foothold in the Japanese beauty market,” the company said in a statement.

    The O’right Japan stores will feature a wide range of plant-based products, including the brand’s limited edition Caffeine Botanical Scalp Revitalizer. As the Tokyo 2021 Olympics Games’ key theme is sustainability, the zero-carbon beauty brand sees a timely opportunity to introduce its products in the Japanese market.

    During the openings, customers will be given gifts including high-quality hydrating hand sanitizer and exclusive discounts.

    Founded in 2006 as a hair-care brand, O’right has evolved into a “green-style” beauty brand, aiming to redefine the beauty market by introducing zero-carbon, sustainable products that “deliver on a promise of a greener tomorrow”.

  • Victoria’s Secret UK collapses into admin work

    Victoria’s Secret UK collapses into admin work

    The Victoria’s Secret UK business has been placed in administration – and it is not just a victim of the Covid-19 crisis, says one analyst.

    Echoing concerns expressed in the brand’s US home market, Sofie Willmott, lead retail analyst at GlobalData, said Victoria’s Secret has lost its appeal to its target demographic.

    “Despite being a desirable, yet expensive, underwear brand when it launched in the UK in 2012, Victoria’s Secret has since lost its appeal for many shoppers due to a lack of inclusivity. Its famous catwalk show was canceled last year after much debate but for many of its target customer base, it was too little too late and they had already gone elsewhere.”

    The Victoria’s Secret UK business has 25 stores, now all at risk of closure. A staff of 785 employees have been furloughed during the process.

    “This is yet another blow to the UK high street and a further example of the impact the Covid-19 pandemic is having on the entire retail industry,” said Deloitte joint administrator Rob Harding in a statement.

    “The effect of the lockdowns, combined with broader challenges facing bricks and mortar retailers, has resulted in a funding requirement for this business, resulting in today’s administration.

    “We will now work with the existing management team and broader stakeholders to assess all options available for the future of the business.”

    In the US, L Brands, parent of Victoria’s Secret, plans to close about 250 stores to right-size the business. A large question mark hangs over its flagship stores internationally, including in Asia and a strategic review has been launched into the brand’s presence in China.

    Willmott said the administration is yet another blow to retail landlords as clothing & footwear spend continues to shift online. The company’s UK e-commerce business is unaffected by the process, with the brand to continue selling online only with lower overheads, “piggybacking on its US operations”.

    “With Victoria’s Secret stores primarily in flagship shopping-center locations including Bluewater, Westfield Stratford and Birmingham Bullring, the administration brings more bad news for landlords that are struggling to collect rent payments.”

    The administrators of Victoria’s Secret UK are seeking a buyer, however, given the state of the brand’s perception in the marketplace, its troubled prospects globally and the crisis the broader UK retail industry finds itself in post-Covid-19, it is difficult to perceive a quick white-knight rescue.

  • Gap the brand flounders on ‘anemic’ range driving parent’s $932 million loss

    Gap the brand flounders on ‘anemic’ range driving parent’s $932 million loss

    Gap – the brand – is floundering internationally, with sales down 50 percent in the first quarter, a rate far worse than other mainstream apparel retailers in the wake of the Covid-19 crisis.

    Gap Inc, its parent, reported a US$932 million net loss for the three months to March on sales down group-wide by 43 percent to $2.11 billion. That decline was worse than its peers Abercrombie & Fitch and Urban Outfitters, and even budget-positioned multi-brand apparel retailer Kohl’s.

    Neil Saunders, MD at GlobalData Retail, said one of the reasons for Gap the brand’s dire performance was a complete failure to transfer lost store sales online.

    “At a time when other retailers were almost doubling their online revenues, Gap’s e-commerce sales dropped by 5 percent,” said Saunders. “We believe that this is indicative of the brand’s lack of traction with customers and its inability to stimulate loyalty. It aptly demonstrates that a fair proportion of sales are driven, not by a burning desire to visit and buy from Gap, but from chance visits to stores and impulse buys often stimulated by excessive discounting. As soon as stores are closed, Gap drops off the radar and consumers have neither the will nor inclination to shop the brand online.”

    Sales at Banana Republic fell by 47 percent globally and by 50 percent in the US, with online sales down modestly. However, Saunders said the dynamics of that are more excusable as Banana Republic is exposed to the smart casualwear sector which is heavily dependent on demand from office workers, who have been stuck at home for many weeks in most western markets.

    In stark contrast, sales by its sportswear brand Athleta, fell by just 8 percent, with store sales down 50 percent and online sales up 49 percent. Old Navy’s global net sales fell 42 percent, with store sales down 60 percent and online sales up 20 percent.

    CEO and president Sonia Synga trumpeted a quick pivot to e-commerce resulting in 40-per-cent growth online in April and 100 percent in May across all of the group’s brands, the first two months of the new quarter. “This online momentum, enabled by new omni-capabilities that have expanded the way customers can shop with us, leaves us well-positioned to fuel our brands going forward,” she said.

    Meanwhile, Saunders said the “heart and soul” of Gap the brand’s problems stem from its “anemic” ranges.

    “These are bland and undifferentiated and do nothing to stimulate consumers. Against a market saturated with alternative apparel destinations, this simply isn’t good enough. Gap has been aware of this problem for eternity but has consistently failed to act, either because it is too inert to do so or because it is unsure of how to correct the problem. In fairness, recent management changes may be the remedy to this, but the crisis has interrupted any progress than might have been made.”

    He said that before the advent of the pandemic, Gap Inc was in a weak position. “It emerges even more withered with quite a lot of holes in its strategy. Solid brands like Athleta provide some hope but are too small to make up for the problems elsewhere. As such, Gap now needs to reinvent and refocus its efforts with an urgency that is unparalleled in its history.”

  • Canali expands China retail presence

    Canali expands China retail presence

    Italian luxury-apparel label Canali has extended its retail footprint into seven additional cities in China.

    The firm has assumed control of the stores, which were selling its own branded goods under a franchise partnership, in a move to further its direct-retail prospects in the territory. The 10 stores affected are located in Changsha, Changchun, Hangzhou, Kunming, Nanning, Taiyuan and Xi’an.

    A statement from the brand described the takeover as further strengthening Canali’s position in luxury menswear within China.

    “This is an important project that stems from our conviction about the leading role of the Chinese market,” said Canali’s president and CEO Stefano Canali.

    “The acquisition signifies our long-term commitment to this strategic market and marks an important cornerstone of the next phase of Canali’s growth in China to elevate the brand presence and customer experience.”

  • Uniqlo opens new Vietnam store, goes online in the Philippines

    Uniqlo opens new Vietnam store, goes online in the Philippines

    Japanese fast-fashion retailer Uniqlo is to open its third store in Ho Chi Minh City this week and will debut online in the Philippines.

    Less than a month after the opening of the Ho Chi Minh’s second store at SC Vivo City, Uniqlo Vietnam is to launch another store in the country’s tallest building Landmark 81 this Friday (June 5).

    Occupying a 2000sqm area, the Uniqlo Landmark 81 store features the brand’s LifeWear products for males, females and kids. The store also features Uniqlo’s latest collections including the Billie Eilish x Takashi Murakami UT. To celebrate the opening, Uniqlo Landmark 81 is running several promotions such as giving away Uniqlo’s mugs and Landmark 81 SkyView tickets.

    Meanwhile, in the Philippines, the fast-fashion brand says it will launch online in the second half of this year.

    “An online store will provide local Uniqlo customers a faster and easier way of purchasing their favorite LifeWear items,” said Masayoshi Nakamura, COO at Uniqlo Philippines.

  • LVMH’s Tiffany takeover is in doubt as virus outbreak hits jeweller’s sales

    LVMH’s Tiffany takeover is in doubt as virus outbreak hits jeweller’s sales

    The US$16.2 billion Tiffany takeover by luxury-goods group LVMH appears in doubt.

    The New York-listed jeweler’s share price tumbled 9 percent after Women’s Wear Daily reported that LVMH board members held a special meeting in Paris to discuss the bid.

    Both Tiffany and LVMH have declined to comment on the matter, and the absence of denial seemed to further fuel speculation.

    Reuters today has reported that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault is exploring ways to reopen negotiations in an attempt to reduce the price.

    “While Arnault now has concerns about overpaying for Tiffany, he still believes in the deal’s strategic rationale, according to the sources,” reported Reuters. “Tiffany will give LVMH a bigger share of the lucrative US market and expand its offerings in jewelry, the fastest-growing sector in the luxury goods industry.”

    Store closures in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, the collapse of tourism and social unrest in the US related to the death of George Floyd at the hands of Minneapolis police are raising concerns about the state of the US economy. The LVMH board is reportedly questioning whether the jeweler will be able to meet its debt obligations once the takeover is complete.

    Terms of the Tiffany takeover were agreed last November, well before the Covid-19 crisis hit China and then North America, both key markets for the jeweller. LVMH had planned to pay $135 per share for Tiffany, representing its largest acquisition to date, before rolling it into the jewelry & watches division where it would sit alongside Bulgari and Tag Heuer.

    Tiffany stores have been closed in the US since mid-March due to the pandemic and this week, many were boarded up to protect them from looting during the US protests.

    In Hong Kong, where the company used to command strong sales to mainland Chinese tourists, sales have taken a severe hit, first due to protests and then due to the closure of borders due to coronavirus.