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Tag: design

  • Marie France Van Damme launches Fall 2019 capsule collection

    Marie France Van Damme launches Fall 2019 capsule collection

    Hong Kong-based fashion designer Marie France Van Damme has released a new capsule collection.

    Retailing from US$500–$2000, the new Fall 2019 capsule collection is available as of this month.

    Photographed by Edwin Datoc in the industrial alleys of Kwun Tong in Kowloon – an area is known for its textile industry history and that also houses Marie France Van Damme’s office and atelier for the last 30 years – the campaign features model Hou Jing Cui set against the cityscape.

    “I think of my new capsule collection as the perfect blend of East and West,” said Marie France Van Damme. “Kowloon is the perfect backdrop for my latest collection inspired by the city I love and call home. We are proud of our atelier’s history and heritage and excited to share our new campaign.”

    The collection uses the designer’s signature black, white, and gold palette in luxurious fabrics from French lace to metallic-toned Italian weaves and light Chinese silks. New this season is a collection of full-length lightweight cotton and wool tweed coats.

    Marie France Van Damme has 13 boutiques and more than 100 retail locations in international destinations from London to Dubai.

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  • Uniqlo South Korea courts controversy as it attempts comeback

    Uniqlo South Korea courts controversy as it attempts comeback

    Facing an unprecedented boycott campaign Japanese fashion retailer Uniqlo has launched a comeback campaign in South Korea – only to stumble almost immediately.

    Uniqlo South Korea’s new television commercial rekindled controversy following complaints that the ad made fun of Japanese sex slaves.

    Following the boycott movement which dates back to July, Uniqlo closed four stores in South Korea before opening three new stores over August and September. The company also reopened two original stores following renovations.

    Uniqlo plans to hold a seminar for job seekers this month as it prepares to hire new employees next year.

    This time, a new program has been set up to connect job seekers directly with Uniqlo staff, which is seen as a strategic move to recover its reputation in the country.

    Uniqlo has also been offering a 50-per-cent discount for some of its signature products since October 3 to celebrate the 15th anniversary of Uniqlo Korea, which is being seen as an unprecedented move even for Uniqlo that has been offering various discounts on a regular basis

    Uniqlo Korea’s new English advertisement, however, has sparked outrage among locals, placing the company at the mercy of South Korean consumers yet again.

    In the commercial, a teenager asks a 98-year-old lady what she wore when she was her age, to which the old lady answers “I can’t remember that far back.”

    The Korean subtitles, however, say “My God, how can I remember something that happened more than 80 years ago?”

    The commercial became an instant controversy among South Koreans, with many seeing the subtitles expressed as being scornful of the 1930s, which was about 80 years ago, when the Japanese empire forced Koreans into military service and sex slavery.

    Uniqlo denied all of the allegations but soon decided to take down the commercial all together.

    In response, Yoon Dong-hyun, a student from Chonnam National University, shot a video clip with Yang Geum-deok, a sex slave victim, imitating the Uniqlo commercial.

    In the video, Yoon asks Yang how difficult her life was when she was his age. Yang answers “I can never forget the horrible pain that I suffered back then.”

    “The video clip was made to tell Japan how it must have felt for the victims during those times,” said Yun.

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  • Giordano sales down across China

    Giordano sales down across China

    Giordano sales slid by 8.6 percent in the three months to September, or by 7.1 percent if measured by constant exchange rates. Comparable same-store sales fell by 10.3 percent.

    The damage to Giordano sales was largely borne in Hong Kong and Mainland China, where protests have hit inbound mainland tourist numbers since June and Chinese are spending less, spooked by the ongoing Sino-US trade war.

    Giordano sales in Hong Kong and Macau fell from $226 million to $169 million and in Mainland China from $251 million to $208 million.

    However, the China decline was mitigated in part by a strong performance in Giordano’s relatively new Middle Eastern markets. Sales there rose from HK$134 million to $153 million.

    Wholesale sales were constant.

    Despite the Hong Kong sales decline, Giordano maintained a network of 75 stores in Hong Kong during the period, the same number it had a year earlier.

    Group sales for the quarter totalled $1.075 billion, down from $1.176 billion a year earlier. Year-to-date sales (for nine months) were down from $4.036 billion to $3.617 billion.

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  • First Steve Madden store opens in Malaysia

    First Steve Madden store opens in Malaysia

    Steve Madden has opened its first store in Malaysia in partnership with retail group Valiram.

    Following success in Singapore, Steve Madden Malaysia marks the label’s second boutique launched by Valiram.

    “It is an absolute privilege for us to present yet another new-to-market lifestyle brand to Malaysia. Steve Madden is a trend leader that is intrinsically urban with an edgy attitude, and we’re certain it will make an impact with the fashion-forward shoppers in Kuala Lumpur,” said Ashvin Valiram, executive director of Valiram.

    Located in Mid Valley Megamall Kuala Lumpur, the 1410sqft store features the brand’s new design concept “Distilled Urban”, the incorporation of wood, steel and concrete, inspired by contemporary New York City chic.

    The Steve Madden Malaysia store also featured the new Fall 2019 Collection at its opening event.

    Founded in 1935, retail group Valiram operates more than 380 stores across Asia Pacific, presenting international brands including Michael Kors, Tumi and Victoria’s Secret.

  • Raymond plans to open 500 more Indian stores by 2021

    Raymond plans to open 500 more Indian stores by 2021

    Indian retailer Raymond is set to operate 1500 stores across the territory within two years.

    The firm currently runs 1000 branded stores and 500 outlets under other brand names across 600 cities in India. It will seek to expand its home brand in lower-tier cities via a franchise model.

    Raymond stores average 2000sqft, although the firm has been focused on establishing smaller-format stores over the past 18 months.

    Indian retailer Raymond currently runs the largest branded fashion retail network within India and also operates in Bangladesh, Nepa, the Middle East and Pakistan. It has plans to enter the US market in “the near future”.

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  • Karl Lagerfeld to launch in India this month

    Karl Lagerfeld to launch in India this month

    Fashion house Karl Lagerfeld is collaborating with premium Indian brand Cover Story to enter the Indian market.

    A limited-edition collection is being sold in selected Future Group stores in cities such as Ahmedabad, Pune and Hyderabad.

    “The collection is very global,” said Future Style Lab CEO Manjula Tiwari, according to a CNBC report. “The idea is to introduce the best of international fashion to India, but tailored for the Indian customer, whether it is in shape, color or even fabrics that work for our weather.

    “While scaling the operations for Future Style Lab, I realized there were lots of opportunities for international quality fashion. That is how we had conceived Cover Story to occupy the premium end of the Indian market. Our retail strategy also positions us next to some of the best high-street and luxury brands in malls. Maison Karl Lagerfeld approached us in London. The collaboration has been in the works for the past year.

    “There has been no attempt to play around with the House of Karl Lagerfeld’s DNA, which ensures that the clothes look like they have been bought in any world city in Europe or in London,” added Tiwari. “Even someone in Pune or Ahmedabad should be able to access global fashion without actually having to travel to say, London, to buy a Karl Lagerfeld. This was the last collection that the designer Karl Lagerfeld himself supervised before he passed away.”

    The brand is not the only international luxury label to make moves into the Indian market, with high-end jewelry retailer Tiffany setting up shop in the territory just two months ago in a joint venture with Reliance Brands.

  • Louis Vuitton launches online offers in Singapore and Malaysia

    Louis Vuitton launches online offers in Singapore and Malaysia

    Global luxury fashion brand Louis Vuitton has launched an e-commerce offer specifically for Singapore and Malaysia.

    Exclusive products will feature on the brand’s new online service, as well as its ready-to-wear items for men and women, bags, leather goods, shoes, accessories, luggage and fragrances, now available for purchase in the territory at louisvuitton.com.

    The e-commerce store is expected to offer limited edition colorways of popular Louis Vuitton leather goods, as well as hot stamping and engraving personalization services.

    The store’s “White Glove Service” offers complimentary same-day or next-day delivery, with a “Click and Collect” option also available.

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  • LVMH results down off Hong Kong protest effect

    LVMH results down off Hong Kong protest effect

    Luxury goods group LVMH has shrugged off the impact of the recent Hong Kong protests and global economic uncertainty, recording a 19 percent increase in sales of leather goods and fashion during the third quarter.

    The Paris-headquartered group singled out its Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior brands as major contributors to the rise, describing their performance as “remarkable.’.

    Analysts at Bloomberg said the group’s performance allays some concerns about the effects of the Hong Kong disruptions, “showing that the Chinese demand that is increasingly driving growth in the industry remains robust”.

    In short, while Mainland Chinese consumers are shunning Hong Kong, they are still buying goods elsewhere, including at home where tariffs have eased.

    In August, the month when protests closed Hong Kong International Airport and inbound tourist numbers plummeted, luxury goods sales in the territory plunged about 40 percent and some retailers have flagged even greater declines in the subsequent weeks.

    “We believe that the bulk of the Hong Kong weakness has been compensated in other markets,” Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet said in a note, as reported by Bloomberg. “This sets the bar pretty high for peers.”

    LVMH’s share price surged 5.5 percent after the results were released this week and the stock is up by about 45 percent year to date.

    Overall group sales – including through its Sephora cosmetics division – rose 11 percent to US$14.6 billion, well ahead of analyst predictions of around 9 percent.

    “The US and Europe saw good progress in the third quarter, as did Asia, despite the difficult context in Hong Kong,” the company said in an earnings statement.

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  • Uniqlo ready to open 60th store in Philippines

    Uniqlo ready to open 60th store in Philippines

    Uniqlo Philippines will open its 60th store next week, at Ayala Malls Capitol Central in Bacolod.

    The Japanese fast-fashion brand has been undertaking a rapid rollout of stores in the country with the latest store – to open on October 18 – the ninth in the Visayas region and the second in Bacolod. Its global flagship store in Glorietta 5, Makati City is the biggest store in the Philippines and in Southeast Asia.

    “We really see and feel the warm reception of the people from your community,” Uniqlo Philippines marketing head Camille Pacis told the Philippine News Agency. “That’s why we are expanding more. We recognize the growth and the potential of Bacolod.

    “(This) marks the growing commitment of Uniqlo to provide simple, innovative, and high-quality clothing to the Filipinos. In all our existing stores, the reception of our customers has been very good.”

    Uniqlo Philippines will partner with the Negrense Volunteers for Change (NVC) Foundation in a charitable outreach to donate clothing to two communities within the city.

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  • Caps from the Philippines crosses borders

    Caps from the Philippines crosses borders

    A Philippine ad agency has created a streetwear brand to test its digital marketing strategies – and now it has gone global.

    What? Caps, developed by Eggshell Worldwide, led by Mark Wesley Pahate now ships to 220 countries worldwide, in partnership with FedEx, and after its early success, the company is now looking at adding streetwear staples such as hoodies, socks, and shoes, with the vision to grow into a full-blown lifestyle brand.

    “Since I’m a fan of streetwear, we decided to go with fitted caps,” says Pahate.

    “Internationally, it is a really big market, valued around US$300 billion and growing. Young people drawn to streetwear comprise a vibrant community and an evolving hub of creativity. You will be surprised by a lot of independent streetwear brands we have here in the Philippines, and how popular they are in the international market.”

    Featuring street style, What? Cap has generated a buzz among youth who want to express themselves through fashion. Neighbouring streetwear hubs Taiwan and Singapore are the biggest target markets for the company.

    “Our products appeal to the two markets we identified for What? Caps: Streetwear fans and cap collectors.” Pahate says. “We connect with customers through social media. From there, we lead them to our website where they can shop.”

    For any brand, it is a badge of success to cross borders. After steadily gaining traction in Southeast Asia and the Middle East, Pahate says they are now beginning to penetrate the US. This increase in demand and destinations, he says, was made possible by their logistics provider, FedEx which has integrated its delivery system into What? Caps’ website, even though it is still a fledgling business.

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  • City Chic broadens US reach with e-commerce acquisition

    City Chic broadens US reach with e-commerce acquisition

    Over a year after divesting the Millers, Crossroads, Katies, Autograph and Rivers businesses to Noni B, and putting more focus on its flagship plus-size brand, City Chic Collective has announced it will acquire US specialty retailer Avenue’s e-commerce assets.

    The US Bankruptcy Court approved the brand’s proposed US$16.5 million acquisition of Avenue’s assets after the brand entered chapter 11 bankruptcy in August.

    City Chic runs operates more than 104 physical stores across New Zealand and Australia, and operates in the USA online as well as through wholesale partnerships with major US retailers such as Macys and Nordstrom.

    According to City Chic, the acquisition will provide the business with a broader reach within the US plus-size market, and expects it will deliver accretive growth for the business’ international operations.

    “Avenue’s e-commerce assets represent a unique opportunity to accelerate our US customer growth and expand across plus size segments,” City Chic chief executive Phil Ryan said.

    “This acquisition delivers on our vision of ‘leading a world of curves’. It means that City Chic now has a portfolio, or a collective, of online business that we can leverage to further build our Northern Hemisphere presence.

    “Our City Chic, Avenue and Hips & Curves brands will allow us to speak to more plus size women and deliver on-trend, well-fitting garments across multiple price points.”

    Online sales across New Zealand, Australia and the US made up 44 percent of total sales for City Chic in FY19.

    In April, City Chic also acquired US online plus-size intimates brand Hips & Curves for US$2 million.

    The shift away from multi-brand retailing toward a more focused approach has made a significant impact on City Chic’s performance – with stock price rising from approximately 80 cents in June of 2018, when the Specialty Fashion divestments were made, to $2.80 per share last week.

    The retailer posted strong sales over its first year as a standalone business, with revenue improving 12.6 percent to $148.4 million, while comparable sales grew 12.2 per cent.

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  • Asia cited as Ted Baker heads to a loss

    Asia cited as Ted Baker heads to a loss

    UK fashion house Ted Baker has slumped into the red in the first half of the year, its position not helped by a 15.2-per-cent fall in sales in Asia.

    Global revenue was down by a more modest 0.7 percent (or by 2.5 percent in constant currency) to £303.8 million, but pre-tax profit turned from a £25 million surplus in the first half of last year to a loss of £2.7 million. The company took a £11.8 million one-off hit on the restructure of its Asian business, where it has appointed partners in Greater China and Japan, and £3.5 million relating to the purchase of a footwear business in January.

    Sales in Asia were £9.5 million and sales per square foot excluding e-commerce sales decreased by 4.6 percent.

    E-commerce concession businesses in China and Japan delivered sales of £1.4 million, down from £1.7 million, which represented 14.7 percent of Ted Baker’s Asian sales.

    Licensed stores across Asia continued to perform well with existing licence partners in Thailand, Singapore and India opening new stores. However, in Indonesia and South Korea, several partner stores were closed.

    Despite the loss, Ted Baker is optimistic about its future prospects, saying its Autumn/Winter collections have been well received and that it is excited about new product initiatives including monthly product drops and speed to market developments.

    “Despite the structural challenges and cyclical pressures on the industry, we remain confident in Ted Baker’s ability to navigate the market and further develop as a global lifestyle brand,” the company said in a results statement. “This confidence remains underpinned by the group’s flexible, omni-channel model, the continuing strength of the brand, and the skill, passion and commitment of our talented teams worldwide.

    “We are continuing to pro-actively manage the significant challenges impacting our sector including weak consumer spending, macro-economic uncertainty, and the accelerating channel shift towards e-commerce. However, we are not immune to these pressures which have impacted our financial performance during the first half of the year.”

    Emily Salter, retail analyst at GlobalData, said it was worrying that Ted Baker’s online sales had declined given its strong multichannel proposition.

    “The retailer can therefore not solely blame the troubles of the physical high street for its fall from grace, as it has previously performed strongly online even as retail revenue growth became more subdued. This points to more significant problems with demand for the brand and the impacts of regular discounting.”

    Salter says that for Ted Baker to be able to revive itself without its founder and former leader playing a key role, it needs to re-establish its brand identity, retain its loyal shopper base and reduce its reliance on discounting.

    “The retailer should take the opportunity to poach Karen Millen and Coast shoppers who are reluctant to purchase online, as the premium brands’ stores and concessions are now closed as a result of the acquisition by the Boohoo group. Ted Baker should review its sales channels, as it sells through department store retailers and online pureplays, leaving it exposed to the troubles of players such as House of Fraser and Debenhams. Moving its childrenswear license from Debenhams to Next in Spring 2020 will help to address this as Next’s leading online platform will be able to generate much stronger growth than the embattled department store,” she said.

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  • H&M profit soars in latest quarter

    H&M profit soars in latest quarter

    H&M’s pre-tax profit rose 25 percent in the latest quarter to US$506 million as the Swedish-headquartered global fast-fashion retailer trimmed its inventory and customers embraced its summer range.

    “The new season has got off to a promising start,” said CEO Karl-Johan Persson.

    Globally, net sales rose by 12 percent in the third quarter to $6.35 billion, helped by a 30-per-cent jump in online sales. In the US market, where it has been struggling, it cut prices on core lines to reduce inventory, and sales rose 19 percent.

    Kate Ormrod, lead retail analyst at GlobalData, said the results showed H&M’s strategic overhaul – in which it has embraced the shift away from physical retail to digital – is beginning to reap rewards.

    The increase in full-price sales and a reduction in markdowns resulted in the group’s first double-digit growth in operating profit and its first quarterly increase since the second quarter of 2016/17.

    The Swedish retailer now expects to only open around a net 120 stores this year, a further reduction on the 175 stores originally planned – although expansion in growth markets remains a priority. Ormrod said that while Persson says a ‘high level of activity’ remains in its transformation work, the scale and coverage of its investment, extending to almost all parts of its business, is notable, and signifies the evolution of the retailer as it strives to satisfy changing consumer demands.

    “This year has not been without its challenges, however, especially in the UK, and while it remains under pressure from value rivals as well as more frequent discounting from mid-market players, H&M’s proposition continues to resonate,” she said.

    Ormrod also praised H&M’s commitment to embracing sustainability.

    “Its longstanding commitment to sustainability sets it apart from other value players and with new initiatives such as green home delivery (for example via cars that run on biogas) in the Netherlands and trialing clothing rental in Stockholm in the autumn, H&M has found its niche which it can continue to exploit as consumer focus on sustainability grows.”

    However, she offered a cautious response to news leaked last month that H&M-branded stores are to trial selling third-party products.

    “While the idea holds merit to extend its reach and bolster appeal, with sister brands & Other Stories and Arket already selling external brands, taking on Asos and Zalando is a big ask, so third-party brands are unlikely to become a cornerstone of its proposition.”

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  • Nadja Swarovski and celebrities honour Karl Lagerfeld with a white shirt

    Nadja Swarovski and celebrities honour Karl Lagerfeld with a white shirt

    Nadja Swarovski is celebrating Karl Lagerfeld’s memory and legacy by joining a global community of creative talents to reimagine his most iconic design: the white shirt, to be showcased during Spring/Summer20 Paris Fashion Week.

    Curated by Carine Roitfeld, a creative visionary and a longtime friend, the project is partnering exclusively with Farfetch, with all proceeds donated to the ‘Sauver la Vie’ charity initiative, which funds medical research at the Paris Descartes University and which Lagerfeld supported for many years.

    Alongside Nadja Swarovski, a host of artists, actors, models, designers and friends have been invited to create their own version of his iconic white shirt, including Amber Valletta, Lewis Hamilton, Sebastien Jondeau and Alessandro Michele. Of his signature garment, Lagerfeld once said: “If you ask me what I’d most like to have invented in fashion, I’d say the white shirt. For me, the white shirt is the basis of everything. Everything else comes after.”

    The Swarovski shirt features cuffs that shimmer with a galaxy of Hotfix stones, as well as crystals hidden inside the placket of the classic fly-front design. In a nod to the playful wit that characterized the work of this giant of the fashion world, Lagerfeld’s image is captured on the reverse of the shirt in a pixelated transfer of 6000 crystals.

    Seven of the project’s designs will each be replicated 77 times and went on sale on Karl.com and Farfetch.com yesterday at €777 per piece.

    The number seven was chosen as it was the designer’s lucky number and represented many elements in his life: his favorite arrondissement in Paris (the 7th), and the name of his bookshop and publishing house (7L). The original shirts went on display at a private exhibition at the Maison Karl Lagerfeld this week and will tour selected Karl Lagerfeld stores worldwide from next week.

    “It is an incredible honor to have been asked to pay tribute to Karl,” said Nadja Swarovski, a member of the Swarovski board. “It was also highly intimidating to attempt to create something aesthetically acceptable in honor of one of fashion’s best talents. Nonetheless, my team and I had a great time completing and realizing our design ideas in his honor. Long live King Karl!”

    Holli Rogers, chief brand officer of Farfetch, described the tribute as “amazing”.

    “The huge level of support that has been pledged by some of the world’s most exciting tastemakers is a testament to Karl’s legacy and the impact he made globally. We are excited to give Farfetch customers the opportunity to own these limited-edition pieces, that will forever be a wonderful tribute to Karl, whilst simultaneously giving back to the ‘Sauver la Vie’ charity, a worthy cause so close to Karl’s heart.”

    Favorite memory

    Nadja Swarovski recalls working with Karl lagerfeld on the jeweler’s Atelier Swarovski collection.

    “We met in his office and he immediately started sketching, flinging them into the air as he worked. In the end, the floor was covered with sketches and three remained on desk, which were the pieces we went on to create,” she recalls.

    “It was inspiring to be around him as he worked. I was also delighted when he agreed to participate in the creation of a jewelry piece to empower the young debutantes of the Vienna Opera Ball. He totally embraced the concept, creating a majestic traditional tiara with a modern twist, featuring a local reference of the Danube river in large, sapphire blue crystals.”

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  • Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger about to open first standalone stores in NZ

    Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger about to open first standalone stores in NZ

    A mixture of international and local fashion and beauty retailers will be opening new stores in Commercial Bay when it opens next year.

    American clothing brands Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, and Dutch fashion retailer Scotch & Soda, will open their first New Zealand standalone retail stores at the centre. Both Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger will be offering a combination of apparel, fragrance, accessories and homewares.

    The Australian brand R.M. Williams, surf apparel Rip Curl and sportswear retailer Asics have also signed up to open flagship stores at the centre.

    Womenswear brand Kookai and local fashion brand Twenty-seven Names will be joining other local brands at the centre alongside outdoor retailer Icebreaker and local brand Storm.

    According to Precinct Properties, the city centre specialists behind the Commercial Bay development, the recent update takes the leasing of Commercial Bay to 95 per cent.

    “We’ve given a lot of thought to curating an outstanding retail offering in the heart of the city,” said Scott Pritchard, Precinct Properties CEO.

    Pritchard said each retailer has been closely considered to ensure Commercial Bay provides the ultimate shopping experience for Aucklanders, visitors from around New Zealand and international guests to the city.

    “Commercial Bay will be a welcoming place with something for everyone,” he said. “I’m confident our retail mix, combined with a truly world-class food and beverage offering will be a great draw card.”

    Precinct Properties said Whitcoulls bookstore and a handful of beauty and wellness brands have also given the nod to launch stores at the centre. The beauty and wellness retailers include nail salon Art of Nails, haircare store Shampoo and Things, men’s barber Gentry and skincare salon Skintopia.

    Lovely by Skin Institute will open its fifth retail store in the country in Commercial Bay, its first store in central Auckland, along with New Zealand natural wellness brand Harker Herbals.

    According to Precinct Properties, the overall development will feature a mix of more than 100 retailers from fashion to food and beverage to beauty and specialty retail.

    The newly announced stores will be joining the previously mentioned ones Sandro, Maje, Kate Spade, Furla, Federation, Superette and Rodd & Gunn, among others.

    The $690 million development, which is being built by Fletcher Properties, has revised the opening date of the retail centre from September of this year to March 2020, and the opening date of the PwC office tower from December of this year to April 2020.

    Precinct Properties originally expected the retail centre to be done in October 2018 and the office tower in mid-2019, but it has continued to push back the opening dates due to “slippage” in the construction of the project.

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