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Tag: Kering

  • China Luxury Label Icicle Hires Former Gucci Head Sabato De Sarno

    China Luxury Label Icicle Hires Former Gucci Head Sabato De Sarno

    China’s Icicle hired former Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno on Monday to lead its design operations across ready-to-wear, accessories and eyewear.

    His debut collection for the Shanghai-based fashion house will arrive for the autumn/winter 2027-2028 season.

    The Kering connection and design scope

    De Sarno takes direct control of creative direction for both women’s and men’s lines. The Italian designer previously ran design at Gucci, the flagship label of French luxury group Kering.

    The appointment deepens ties between the two businesses. Kering took a minority stake in Icicle in April 2026, giving the Chinese brand financial backing and direct access to European luxury executive networks.

    Chinese brands buying European prestige

    Chinese fashion groups are increasingly hiring established European designers to push their brands upmarket and expand outside mainland China. Icicle built its domestic business on high-end natural fabrics and understated cuts, but matching European heritage houses requires international design pedigree.

    The approach carries clear execution risks. Integrating European creative directors into Chinese corporate structures has produced mixed commercial returns, requiring labels to balance Western aesthetic direction with a core domestic customer base that values different proportions and styling.

    Precedents across the domestic sector

    Down-jacket specialist Bosideng followed the same playbook in 2025 when it hired British designer Kim Jones to lead its luxury line, Areal. French luxury group Hermes took a similar path with Shang Xia, which hired London-based designer Yang Li in 2021.

    Icicle is now preparing its production pipeline and marketing rollout ahead of De Sarno’s first autumn/winter 2027-2028 show.

  • Kering Redirects up to €300 Million to Asia as Regional Sales Grow 12 per Cent

    Kering Redirects up to €300 Million to Asia as Regional Sales Grow 12 per Cent

    Kering has reallocated up to €300 million in capital toward Asia-Pacific markets as regional sales growth of 8 to 12 per cent outpaced softer Western demand across its fashion portfolio.

    Asian territories now generate nearly half of total group revenue, led by Greater China at 20 to 25 per cent, Japan at 8 to 10 per cent, and the rest of Asia-Pacific contributing 10 to 15 per cent.

    Where the Revenue Comes From

    Direct-to-consumer flagship boutiques in cities like Shanghai and Tokyo anchor the group’s regional retail network, capturing full-margin sales. Wholesale partnerships with upscale department stores account for 35 to 40 per cent of total volume, while digital commerce platforms generate 15 to 20 per cent. The standalone eyewear division adds between €1.5 billion and €2 billion annually across all licensed and owned lines.

    Yves Saint Laurent proved the strongest performer in the region. The label expanded at annual rates of 25 to 30 per cent in Asian markets between 2019 and 2023, lifting global house sales from €3.18 billion in 2022 to an estimated €3.7 billion by 2024.

    Brand Performance and Capital Shifts

    Gucci remains the conglomerate’s largest single cash generator, producing roughly €9.5 billion in 2024 revenue. Its share of group intake fell from 52 per cent in 2022 to 48 per cent, prompting management to divert capital toward faster-growing labels and regional retail upgrades.

    Bottega Veneta generated between €1.8 billion and €1.95 billion with gross margins reaching 68 per cent, driven by leather goods demand. Balenciaga showed signs of recovery with projected growth of 5 to 8 per cent after revenues contracted 15 per cent during 2023.

    European luxury groups spent the past two years reassessing their heavy reliance on flagship labels in Asia. While rivals like LVMH diversified early across jewellery and hospitality, Kering’s concentrated bets on fashion houses make regional retail productivity critical to its bottom line.

    Management continues to review smaller portfolio brands generating under €200 million annually, with further divestment decisions expected as capital shifts to primary retail hubs.

  • European Luxury Houses See China Rebound as Burberry Sales Climb 9%

    European Luxury Houses See China Rebound as Burberry Sales Climb 9%

    European luxury groups are tracking a tentative rebound across mainland China, led by high-net-worth spending and demand for premium beauty and apparel.

    July retail sales across the country’s top 25 luxury labels dropped more than 10 percent under tighter scrutiny on offshore wealth, but corporate earnings forecasts point to an autumn turnaround. Household spending on cosmetics has begun to stabilize, while quarterly reports from fashion houses reveal pockets of early momentum.

    Divergence Across Brands

    Burberry Group posted a 9 percent increase in Greater China retail sales during its latest quarter, helped by younger shoppers and localized campaigns. The British fashion house partnered with Chinese National Geography magazine on documentary marketing to lift brand engagement among Gen Z consumers.

    Gucci parent Kering expects sales in the region to return to positive growth by the fourth quarter of 2026. Chief Executive Luca de Meo called the country a strategic priority as trading conditions improved steadily through the latest reporting period.

    LVMH reported steadying demand in mainland stores, citing improving figures for its Sephora retail chain and cognac labels. Swiss group Richemont captured higher tourist spending across Hong Kong and Macau, while Moncler gained ground in market niches.

    Uneven Recovery Profile

    The rebound remains concentrated among high-net-worth buyers rather than broad middle-income households. That divide keeps the pace uneven across retail categories and price points.

    Hermes continues to accelerate sales in the region, while Danish jeweler Pandora is seeing sales declines narrow. For retail operators across Asia, the test will be whether luxury spending broadens beyond top-tier VIP clients before fourth-quarter results land.

  • Kering Bounces Back with Revenue Growth in Q2 Amidst Operational Changes

    Kering Bounces Back with Revenue Growth in Q2 Amidst Operational Changes

    The luxury group Kering has reported an upturn in its performance for Q2, indicating a return to revenue growth. CEO Luca de Meo has attributed this encouraging development to the early signs of progress across Kering’s portfolio, following recent operational and commercial modifications.

    Kering’s revenue for the second quarter reached $4.16 billion, a 1% year-on-year increase, bolstered by an improved retail performance. Comparable sales from directly operated stores witnessed a 2% surge, while wholesale and other avenues of revenue saw a 3% increase. De Meo expressed his satisfaction with Kering’s improved Q2 performance, pointing out the sequential acceleration of growth within the organization, including its Gucci brand, thanks to concerted actions carried out in recent months.

    However, for the first half of the year, revenue stood at $8.22 billion, marking a 3% dip compared to the previous year. On a more positive note, recurring operating income hit the $1.04 billion mark, and the recurring operating margin saw an improvement, reaching 12.8%.

    Kering attributes these results to its ongoing efforts to optimize its store operations. Following the closure of 75 net stores in 2025, the company closed an additional 84 net stores in the first half of 2026, in line with its objective of shuttering 100 stores this year.

    Despite this positive trajectory, Kering noted the persistent geopolitical instability as a factor impacting trade in the Middle East, causing a slight reduction in the group’s second-quarter revenue growth by around one percentage point.

    Sharing the company’s future plans, de Meo revealed that Kering would remain committed to execution, technology investments, and brand development. He emphasized the positive effects of the decisive steps taken by the company to enhance the uniqueness of its brands, streamline its organization, and boost effectiveness throughout the group.

    Questions & Answers

    What was Kering’s revenue for Q2?
    Kering reported a Q2 revenue of $4.16 billion, marking a 1% year-on-year increase.

    What steps is Kering taking to improve its performance?
    Kering is focusing on enhancing the distinctiveness of its brands, streamlining its organization, and boosting effectiveness throughout the group. It has also been closing down stores and investing in technology and brand development.

    What challenges is Kering facing in its operations?
    Geopolitical instability, specifically in the Middle East, has been identified as a significant challenge. This has had a slight impact on Kering’s Q2 revenue growth.

  • Gucci’s Rebranding Challenge: Kering CEO Maps Out Strategy for Sophisticated Chinese Luxury Market

    Gucci’s Rebranding Challenge: Kering CEO Maps Out Strategy for Sophisticated Chinese Luxury Market

    Kering’s flagship brand, Gucci, is focusing on rebuilding its market position in China following years of stagnation. The luxury company’s complacency resulted in an underwhelming retail experience and poorly situated stores, according to Kering CEO Luca de Meo.

    China: A Changed Landscape

    China has been a significant growth driver for the global luxury sector, worth approximately US$400 billion, for over a decade. Gucci, like many of its competitors, capitalized on this expanding market. However, the brand failed to take advantage of a brief shopping surge following the pandemic and couldn’t recover when Chinese consumer spending slowed.

    De Meo, speaking at Kering’s first investor day since he assumed his role in September, expressed that Gucci needs to reevaluate its strategy in China. He emphasized the necessity to cater to the discerning clientele with high-quality retail experiences and to move away from relying on off-price outlets offering goods at discounted rates.

    “Gucci needs a comeback,” de Meo asserted, criticizing the brand’s previous approach to China as an easy revenue source.

    The Evolving Chinese Consumer

    The retail landscape in China has transformed significantly over the years. De Meo noted that Chinese consumers are now motivated by quality, design, and experience rather than logo-driven purchases, a trend seen in markets like Japan, South Korea, and Europe.

    The CEO stressed the importance of a consistent brand message and an enhanced in-store experience to revive growth in China. Kering also revealed plans to acquire a minority stake in the Shanghai-based Icicle Fashion Group.

    Learning from the Auto Industry

    De Meo, who previously served as CEO of Renault, drew parallels between the luxury sector and the auto industry. He warned luxury brands not to underestimate domestic competition and acknowledged China’s innovative capabilities.

    Other brands in Kering’s luxury portfolio, such as Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent, have already begun reaping the benefits of a more finely-tuned China strategy. However, he indicated that Gucci’s recovery would be a more prolonged process.

    “For Gucci, the verdict is still out. This transformation won’t be instantaneous, but we anticipate seeing measurable progress within the next few months to a year,” he stated.

    Questions & Answers

    What is Kering’s plan for Gucci in China?
    Kering plans to reinvent Gucci in China by focusing on higher quality retail experiences and catering to discerning clientele. The company is moving away from off-price outlets and is focusing on a consistent brand message and enhanced in-store experience.

    How has consumer behavior changed in China’s luxury market?
    Chinese consumers are now motivated by quality, design, and experience rather than logo-driven purchases. This shift mirrors trends seen in other markets such as Japan, South Korea, and Europe.

    How long will Gucci’s recovery take according to Kering’s CEO?
    Kering’s CEO, Luca de Meo, anticipates that Gucci’s recovery in China will be a prolonged process, with measurable progress expected within the next few months to a year.

  • Kering Divests Beauty Division To L’oreal For $4.6b: A Strategic Push For Luxury Fashion Focus

    Kering Divests Beauty Division To L’oreal For $4.6b: A Strategic Push For Luxury Fashion Focus

    In a significant maneuver towards streamlining its operations, luxury conglomerate Kering has divested its beauty division to L’Oreal. The deal, valued at US$4.6 billion (EU$4 billion), is part of Kering’s broader strategy to concentrate on its essential fashion brands.

    Agreement Details

    Under the terms of the agreement, L’Oreal has gained 50-year exclusive rights to manufacture, develop, and circulate fragrances and cosmetics for renowned brands like Creed, Bottega Veneta, and Balenciaga. Furthermore, the deal encompasses the forthcoming acquisition of Gucci Beauty once its current license with Coty concludes.

    Kering’s CEO, Luca de Meo, views this partnership as a significant leap towards enhancing the expansion of its fragrance and cosmetics houses. De Meo expressed his optimism about the partnership, stating it would drive scale in the beauty sector and uncover extensive long-term potential for the brands.

    Strategic Coordination and Joint Ventures

    To ensure brand consistency, a strategic committee will be instituted to facilitate coordination between Kering’s brands and L’Oreal. The committee’s function will be to provide an alignment that reinforces the brands’ coherence across different categories.

    Additionally, both companies have plans to probe into potential business prospects through intended 50/50 joint ventures. These ventures are seen as opportunities to strengthen their brand portfolios and expand market reach.

    L’Oreal’s CEO, Nicolas Hieronimus, believes the partnership will assist in broadening the company’s reach into high-growth segments. Hieronimus is confident that this alliance will position them as leading contenders in the rapidly expanding niche fragrance market. He lauded Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Balenciaga as exceptional couture brands possessing considerable potential.

    Deal Closure

    The agreement is anticipated to conclude in the first half of next year, with payment to be made in cash. The deal’s completion is still contingent on receiving regulatory approval.

    Questions & Answers

    What does this deal mean for Kering?
    This deal allows Kering to focus on its core luxury fashion houses, while also potentially enhancing the growth of its fragrance and cosmetics brands through a partnership with L’Oreal.

    How will L’Oreal benefit from this deal?
    L’Oreal will acquire exclusive rights to manufacture and distribute products for some of the world’s most prestigious brands, thus potentially expanding its influence in high-growth segments and the niche fragrance market.

    What are the future plans of both companies post this deal?
    Both companies plan to establish a strategic committee to ensure brand coherence. They also intend to explore possible business opportunities through equal stake joint ventures.

  • Kering Reports 16% Revenue Drop Amid Gucci’s Struggling Sales In First Half Of 2021

    Kering Reports 16% Revenue Drop Amid Gucci’s Struggling Sales In First Half Of 2021

    Kering, the renowned French luxury merchandise corporation, has disclosed a significant sales drop for the initial half of the year. The company’s performance continues to be impacted negatively owing to a consistent decline in sales from Gucci.

    Semi-Annual Performance Analysis

    During the six months ending on 30th June, the conglomerate experienced a 16% fall in revenue, descending to EUR 7.6 billion (equivalent to US$ 8.7 billion). This figure incorporates a 14% decrease in the first quarter and an 18% fall in the second.

    The primary contributor to this downward trend is Gucci, with a substantial 26% reduction in sales. Other luxury houses also saw drops in their performance, including Yves Saint Laurent with an 11% decrease, and other associated houses posting a 15% decline.

    However, it was not all gloomy for Kering. Bottega Veneta reported a 1% increase in sales, while the Kering Eyewear and Corporate segment, inclusive of Kering Beaute, witnessed a growth of 2%.

    Geographical Sales Trends

    Despite the overall downturn, Kering reported a minor upward trend in sales for Asia-Pacific and North America during the second quarter. In contrast, Western Europe and Japan saw an acceleration in their sales decline, largely attributed to a significant drop in tourism.

    Chairman and CEO Francois-Henri Pinault, while acknowledging the challenging market conditions, emphasized the company’s commitment to streamlining distribution and controlling costs. He pointed out the decisive steps taken to fortify the company’s financial structure.

    Financial Indicators

    In terms of net income attributed to the company, the figures stood at EUR 474 million, a significant decrease from the EUR 878 million reported in the same period the previous year.

    Despite the lower than expected numbers, Pinault expressed optimism for the company’s future. He believes that the strategic efforts undertaken by the company over the past two years have laid a robust foundation for the next phase of Kering’s growth and development.

    Questions & Answers

    What was Kering’s reported revenue for the first half of the year?
    Kering reported a revenue of EUR 7.6 billion (US$ 8.7 billion) for the first half of the year, representing a 16% decrease compared to the corresponding period last year.

    Which brands under Kering experienced a decline in sales?
    Gucci was the primary underperformer with a sales drop of 26%. Yves Saint Laurent and other associated brands also experienced declines in sales, with decreases of 11% and 15% respectively.

    What were the key contributing factors to the sales decline?
    The sales decline was primarily attributed to reduced tourism, impacting sales in Western Europe and Japan. Additionally, specific brands like Gucci significantly underperformed.

  • Alessandro Michele is stepping down as Gucci’s creative director

    Alessandro Michele is stepping down as Gucci’s creative director

    The company announced Wednesday that Alessandro Michele is stepping down as Gucci’s creative director. Michele, who has been with Gucci for 20 years, assumed the role in 2015. Before becoming creative director, he was in the company’s shoe and accessories department.

    “There are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have,” Michele said in a statement released by Kering, the luxury goods brand that owns Gucci. “Today an extraordinary journey ends for me, lasting more than twenty years, within a company to which I have tirelessly dedicated all my love and creative passion.”

    Michele brought a genderfluid and maximalist aesthetic to the brand, which was a departure from Tom Ford’s sleek and provocative rebranding which saved the company in the 1990s.

    Kering wrote that Michele “has played a fundamental part in making the brand what it is today through his groundbreaking creativity, while staying true to the renowned codes of the House.”

    Dakota Johnson, Harry Styles and Lana Del Ray all led Gucci campaigns, which saw accelerated sales when Michele was in charge. Gucci’s revenue rose from just under €4 billion ($4.1 billion) in 2015 to €9.7 billion ($10 billion) in 2021. However, its success took a hit due to the pandemic, and now Gucci is looking to revamp.

    Michele described the people behind Gucci as his adopted family and thanked them in his statement. He left them with a wish: to continue to cultivate their dreams, “the subtle and intangible matter that makes life worth living.”

    “May you continue to nourish yourselves with poetic and inclusive imagery, remaining faithful to your values,” he said. “May you always live by your passions, propelled by the wind of freedom.”

    A new creative director has not yet been announced.

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  • Kering Eyewear opens first South Korea store, its largest yet in Asia

    Kering Eyewear opens first South Korea store, its largest yet in Asia

    Luxury brand Kering Eyewear has launched its first store in South Korea, located on the eighth floor of Lotte Duty Free’s store in Busan.

    A collaboration between Kering Group and Lotte, the brand claims the new boutique is its largest store in Asia to date.

    Center stage in the store is a giant media wall showcasing new products. A virtual fitting service for Kering eyewear is provided by Lotte Internet Duty Free using augmented reality (AR) technology. Lotte Internet Duty Free plans to implement a virtual reality (VR) tool allowing customers to view the boutique in 360 degrees without physically visiting the store.

    Kering Group wants to expand its presence in Asia and deepen its commitment to sustainability. The group has also revealed plans to strengthen its Gucci brand’s presence in China, where it aims to become the market leader by 2025.

    Kering wants to cut its carbon footprint by 40 per cent by 2025. It also emphasizes its efforts in sustainable sourcing, buying 30 per cent of organic cotton, 100 per cent of gold, and 73 per cent of sustainable leather from suppliers who source their materials ethically.

    Last March, Kering Eyewear bought luxury eyewear company Maui Jim as part of its expansion strategy.

  • Kering bullish on Chinese domestic luxury consumption

    Kering bullish on Chinese domestic luxury consumption

    French luxury goods Kering sounded a positive note on its forecasts for its performance this year in China, even if the country’s consumers are not expected to resume traveling abroad for at least a year.

    Group managing director Jean-Francois Palus told analysts on Thursday the company had deepened its presence in mainland China during the pandemic, notably through e-commerce on Alibaba’s Tmall platform as well as its own websites in the country.

    He also cited internal tourist flows to the duty-free shopping hub of Hainan as well as other parts of the country as fuelling luxury sales growth.

    The executive said he was optimistic about the health of Chinese consumption, noting a lot of new consumers beginning to buy luxury products, with “a good propensity to buy and to buy more.”

  • Prada sees second-hand fashion as opportunity, weighs partnerships

    Prada sees second-hand fashion as opportunity, weighs partnerships

    Italian fashion group Prada sees opportunity in the booming second-hand fashion sector which it can develop both in-house and through partnerships, marketing chief and heir designate Lorenzo Bertelli said.

    The market for pre-owned chic bags and clothes has surged over the last three years, driven by younger, more environmentally conscious shoppers looking for affordable high-end goods.

    It is expected to reach 33 billion euros ($37.2 billion) in size this year after growing by 65% between 2017 and 2021, according to consultancy Bain. This compares with 12% growth for brand new luxury goods.

    Some rival luxury companies are already exploring the sector. Earlier this year, French conglomerate Kering took a 5% stake in Vestiaire Collective, a leading platform for second-hand clothes and handbags. Kering’s star brand Gucci also formed a partnership with U.S.-based resale platform The RealReal last year.

    “Second hand is a strategy we have been investigating for more than a year,” Lorenzo Bertelli, the eldest son of co-Chief Executives Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada, and the future brand leader, said in an interview.

    “I cannot disclose too much but for sure second-hand is there. We will take it as an opportunity.

    “It can be a partnership with a player or it can be something more in-house, or both of them, a sort of hybrid solution like for e-commerce,” he said.

    The heir to Prada’s empire, who said he wants to keep the family-controlled group independent when he takes the reins in a few years, doesn’t seem fazed by the future challenges of the ever-changing luxury sector.

    “Rallying and sport, in general, taught me a lot. (It) teaches you to never give up and also a lot of humility, in the sense that you have to learn,” he said. “Sometimes sport is cruel when you want to measure yourself.”

  • Kering invests in resale platform Vestiaire Collective

    Kering invests in resale platform Vestiaire Collective

    French luxury group Kering has taken a 5 percent stake in Vestiaire Collective, a leading platform for second-hand clothes and handbags, betting that the booming resale market will help it woo younger and more environmentally conscious shoppers.

    The purchase is part of a 178 million euro (US$215 million) financing round announced on Monday which valued Vestiaire Collective at more than US$1 billion, the companies said.

    U.S. investment firm Tiger Global Management also invested in the platform, while existing shareholders including Vogue publisher Conde Nast and French private equity firm Eurazeo put more money in.

    The pre-owned fashion market has enjoyed rapid growth over the last three years, with a further acceleration during the coronavirus pandemic, thanks to younger shoppers’ heightened focus on sustainability and also homebound consumers looking for good deals on second-hand clothes.

    “There is a real shift happening that is going to shape the future of the fashion industry, and as a leader, in the sector, we want to shape that trend,” Kering’s digital chief Gregory Boutte told reporters.

    The proportion of secondhand pieces in closets is predicted to grow from 21% in 2021 to 27% in 2023, with the value of the sector estimated to be worth over $60 billion by 2025, the companies said in a statement. Paris-based Vestiaire Collective said its transaction volume doubled in 2020.

    Luxury groups have traditionally been wary of secondhand sellers, which weaken their control over the distribution and pricing of their brands and, according to critics, can help spread counterfeit goods. But that is changing, and Kering’s star brand Gucci last year announced a partnership with U.S.-based resale platform The RealReal.

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  • Gucci powers French Luxury Group Kering’ growth

    Gucci powers French Luxury Group Kering’ growth

    French international luxury group Kering has seen positive trading results brought on by stronger-than-expected sales of its Gucci brand.

    The group is among several luxury houses that have so far managed to ride out interruptions to business caused by 21 weeks of protests in Hong Kong.

    Kering is following a strategy of redistributing stock originally intended for sale in Hong Kong to other markets.

    Gucci has a large store network in Mainland China and South Korea, where spending has picked up among luxury-goods consumers who may otherwise have shopped in Hong Kong. Sales in the territory during China’s Golden Week holiday were underwhelming.

    “The trends are still negative so far in Hong Kong,

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  • Kering faces €1.4 billion Italian tax bill

    Kering faces €1.4 billion Italian tax bill

    Kering is facing an Italian claim for €1.4 billion (£1.2 billion) in unpaid taxes. The company’s Swiss-based Luxury Goods International (LGI) subsidiary has been under investigation for allegedly avoiding tax on earnings generated elsewhere. The probe has largely centred on Gucci, Kering’s star brand and biggest revenue driver. Italy’s tax police carried out checks at Gucci’s Florence headquarters and Milan offices in 2017, and drew up the report that has now been handed to Kering, a source close to the investigation said.

    Kering has consistently denied avoiding tax, saying its activities were fully compliant with all tax obligations.

    In its statement on Friday, the group said the Italian tax authorities’ findings for the years 2011-2017 had yet to be finalised by their own enforcement team.

    “Kering challenges the outcome of the audit report both on the grounds and the amount,” the company said, adding that it “does not have the necessary information” to record a provision against any potential bill for back taxes or penalties.

    The company has said that LGI is a substantial firm in its own right, with 600 employees handling inventory, billing and supply-chain logistics, with a business model “known to French and other competent tax authorities”.

    According to reports by France’s Mediapart newspaper and Germany’s Der Spiegel, Kering’s wholesale activities – the sale of products to retailers such as department stores – have come under particular scrutiny.

    Some business carried out by Kering employees in locations including Milan and Paris was billed through the Swiss unit, incurring lower tax rates, according to those reports.

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  • Balenciaga launches first in-house eyewear line with Dover Street Market

    Balenciaga launches first in-house eyewear line with Dover Street Market

    French luxury house Kering has launched its first in-house Balenciaga eyewear line at British Dover Street Market stores. The new collection is exclusive to the DSM chain in the US, UK, Japan, Singapore and China, as well as the brand’s e-commerce channel. The high-end products are valued between US$290–570, with both sunglasses and prescription frames available.

    The Balenciaga eyewear line represents the first in-house Kering Eyewear product range. Previous Balenciaga collections were produced under Marcolin Eyewear, the creator of shades for numerous luxury labels.

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