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Tag: Ralph Lauren

  • Closure of Ralph Lauren Hong Kong flagship store

    Closure of Ralph Lauren Hong Kong flagship store

    “We are in the midst of transforming our presence in China, a region that we believe will become an important driver of growth for us over the long term,” Ralph Lauren said in 2012 after the fashion conglomerate of which he was then chief executive announced plans to open 60 stores in greater China by 2015.

    A year later, Ralph Lauren launched its first men’s flagship store in Asia in the Landmark Prince’s in Hong Kong’s Central district, and in October 2014 it opened an enormous “mansion” store at the Lee Gardens complex, presenting accessories, watches and jewellery as well as men’s and women’s fashions.

    Fast forward two years, and the 20,000 sq ft store in Causeway Bay is no more, having closed overnight late last week.

    Contacted for comment about its abandonment of the doubtless expensive space in the Lee Gardens, a representative of the brand said the closure was “part of our strategic and financial plan”, adding: “We are redeploying assets to focus on new concept stores and transition away from unprofitable formats and locations.”

    We are redeploying assets to focus on new concept stores and transition away from unprofitable formats and locations

    Ralph Lauren spokeswoman

    Ralph Lauren is “combining men’s and women’s flagships in the recently renovated Prince’s Building location, as well as remaining focused on providing our customers with the authentic style and luxury shopping experience they expect from us,” the spokeswoman said.

    The move is part of a new strategy from Stefan Larsson, who worked for Swedish fast-fashion retailer H&M for 15 years and who replaced Lauren as chief executive in late 2015 (Lauren remains executive chairman and chief creative officer). The restructuring will, according to reports, cut over 50 stores and 1,000 jobs worldwide and save the publicly traded company between US$180 million and US$220 million a year. Its share price has been under pressure in the past 12 months, twice falling below US$85. Ralph Lauren shares closed at US$108.19 on Monday, down more than 9 per cent on their US$119.59 close on December 7, 2015.

    Ralph Lauren’s sudden exit from its Causeway Bay flagship store is the latest high-profile fashion closure to have occurred or been flagged in 2016. American fast-fashion label Forever 21 has announced it will close its multi-storey Causeway Bay flagship store. British label Paul Smith closed its Times Square store and Abercrombie & Fitch is set to leave its prime location in the Pedder Building in Pedder Street, Central – although, with a flailing brand reputation, poor sales and that famous HK$7 million monthly rent to pay, the move by Abercrombie & Fitch came as no surprise. Italian luxury clothing and accessories label Tonino Lamborghini also shut down more than 10 stores and in-store counters in the city earlier this year.

    Abercrombie’s Pedder Street closure will leave it with no stand-alone stores in Hong Kong, an effective withdrawal from the market, following on the closure of some 50 stores in the US in 2016.

    Although the “umbrella revolution” protests in 2014 that were a factor in a downturn in Hong Kong’s retail sales have long ended, political turmoil continues and visitor numbers, having dropped, have not fully recovered. Competition for high-spending Chinese consumers has been stiff, with destinations such as Japan, South Korea, Milan and London stealing some of the traffic from Hong Kong.

    The city’s retail sales dropped 10.5 per cent in the first half of 2016, their worst performance since 1999.

    Still, for all the negative news there are nuggets of hope. Italian brand Versace is opening a huge flagship store opposite the Landmark in Central next year, and mega brand Louis Vuitton is revamping its Hong Kong stores and continuing to invest in the city. Louis Vuitton chief executive and chairman Michael Burke told me a few months ago that “the leader in the market still believes in Hong Kong”.

    However, Louis Vuitton and Versace are definitely in the minority.

    With little sign of major recovery, Hong Kong’s economic outlook uncertain and retail sales continuing to fall, the fashion industry is on tenterhooks and braced for tougher times ahead. Since I wrote about Gucci’s rent dispute with its landlord Hongkong Land in 2015, there have been a spate of big-brand store closures, and threats by more prestige brands to shut up shop if rents aren’t adjusted.

    A few agile, smaller brands may exploit their departure, and subsequent rent drops, but times continue to be tough for the majority. Ralph Lauren probably won’t be the last big brand to close an expensive Hong Kong flagship store. Swire Properties chief executive Guy Bradley said in August he saw no signs of a retail turnaround.

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  • Ralph Lauren sales tumble

    After a slight uptick in performance at the close of last year, Ralph Lauren sales have tumbled.

    Compared to 2015 – when total revenues declined by 5 per cent, wholesale by 9 per cent, and retail by 3 per cent – the latest sales figures are decidedly weak.

    In the first quarter of the new fiscal year, net revenues fell for a fifth straight quarter, dropping 4 per cent to US$1.6 billion

    The wholesale numbers are wholly understandable and are thanks, in large part, to the car-crash that is the American department store channel. While Ralph Lauren has representation in stores like Macy’s the fact that its sales areas look like a flea-market do nothing to help the brand or its revenues. This is further exacerbated by the generally weak customer traffic at department stores across the past few months.

    The retail numbers are much more of a disappointment, and a concern given that this division delivers the largest chunk of revenue. Ralph Lauren has been keen to emphasise its Way Forward Plan, which it says is changing the operational structure of the business so that it can deliver growth. As much as many of the actions are prudent, it feels like the company has been turning itself around in perpetuity. At some point, these actions need to deliver growth – something they are currently failing to do at either the sales level, or on the bottom line where the company posted a $31 million operating loss for the quarter.

    Decisive action is needed to put the brand on the right track. This includes withdrawing from department stores like Macy’s which are now actively damaging the Ralph Lauren brand, and focusing only on more upscale department stores like Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus as sales channels.

    A proper brand review is also needed as Ralph Lauren has become muddled and confused and is simply not competing effectively against brands like Vineyard Vines, which have good traction with younger, high spending consumers. Some action has already been taken to simplify the brand structure but much more clarity is needed in communicating the various parts of the offer to consumers. At present the various parts of Ralph Lauren are too hit and miss.

    Reconnecting with younger consumers is also a priority. Rather like Tiffany, Ralph Lauren is seen as an older, established brand that, while not actively disliked, is less relevant than it was a generation ago. Spin-offs like Club Monaco and RRL have helped to remedy this, but the company needs to put more energy and effort around extending and expanding their reach.

    That said, current plans should deliver some cost savings over the course of this fiscal as operations are streamlined. However, expect the plan’s impact on revenue to be negative across at least the next quarter.

    • Håkon Helgesen is a retail analyst at Conlumino.
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  • Zara Vietnam flagship nearly ready

    Zara Vietnam flagship nearly ready

    Zara Vietnam’s flagship store is taking shape at Vincom shopping mall in Ho Chi Minh City, and is expected to open soon.

    The Spanish fast-fashion brand announced in May that it would expand to Vietnam this summer, setting its debut store’s opening date for this month. However, posters in the city say the store opening is next month. It is expected the store will have two storeys.

    Zara-Vietnam

    Fast-fashion brands are popular in Vietnam, and Zara has a huge customer base there. After ordering online and having items brought in from overseas, Vietnamese customers have been eagerly anticipating the arrival of its stores.

    However, the brand would need to look at its pricing. Vietnamese consumers have found that while some brands are considered economical in the West, once they enter Vietnam their prices double or even triple, with Mango and Topshop typical examples.

    Mango Mega store VN

    Zara is aiming to open up to 360 stores globally this year, and in Vietnam is sharing the market with other international fashion like Gap, Nine West and Ralph Lauren.

    Meanwhile, Mango is planning to open a men’s store in Vietnam, and H&M is said to be considering expansion in Vietnam.

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  • Ralph Lauren closing stores as sales see slump

    Ralph Lauren closing stores as sales see slump

    Ralph Lauren is closing stores, cutting jobs and focusing more on its most popular brands to try to reverse its declining fortunes.

    Shares of the fashion company tumbled 4 percent Tuesday.

    The changes are the first big moves from CEO Stefan Larsson, who replaced company founder Ralph Lauren in the role late last year. Lauren is still executive chairman and chief creative officer of the fashion and home decor business he created.

    The New York company, known for its polo shirts and pony logo, plans to close more than 50 stores, or about 10 percent of its total retail stores. It will let go approximately 1,000 of its 15,000 full-time employees, or almost 7 percent.

    It will focus more on its three best-selling brands — Ralph Lauren, Polo and Lauren — and devote fewer resources to its smaller ones, such as Chaps and RLX. The company also hopes to produce its clothing faster, cutting six months from the production process to make it nine months.

    Ralph Lauren expects the restructuring to save it between $180 million and $220 million a year. That’s on top of $125 million in cost cuts from last year. It expects to incur restructuring charges of up to $400 million for the year and inventory-related charges of up to $150 million.

    For the current quarter, it expects revenue to fall in the mid-single digits and fall in the low double digits for the year.

    Shares of Ralph Lauren Corp. fell $4.12, or 4.3 percent, to $92.21 in morning trading Tuesday. Its shares are down about 30 percent in the last year.

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  • Zara Vietnam to launch in July

    Zara Vietnam to launch in July

    Zara Vietnam says it will open its first store in July, just as Euromonitor International reveals the Vietnamese branded goods market may reach $2.7 billion in value by next year.

    As more than more people can afford branded goods, international fashion brands such as Gap, Mango, Nine West, Ralph Lauren and Topshop have become the choice of many young Vietnamese, especially office workers, says Euromonitor.

    Zara is owned by Inditex, which at the end of its latest fiscal year on January 31 had 7013 shops in 88 markets, including 2000 Zara outlets. If the Spanish fast fashion giant follows its normal international expansion course, it will likely roll out some of its other brands in the market, including Bershka, Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti, Stradivarius and Zara Home.

    There is already a Vietnamese website selling Zara items, with a showroom in Ho Chi Minh City, but the shop sells alternatively-sourced and end-of-season lines.

    Mango, which targets customers between 18 and 40 years old, has been in Vietnam since 2004 through a franchise contract signed with Maison JSC. It also has other franchise partners, including DAFC, a subsidiary of IPP, and BFF, belonging to Vingroup.

    In 107 markets internationally, Mango had $2.6 billion in revenue last year.

    A survey by Nielsen on Vietnamese consumer confidence has shown that Vietnamese are willing to spend money on holidays, tourism, fashion and high-technology products.

    Meanwhile, Mango and Zara are among brands that have garment factories in Vietnam.

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  • SEVVA Tailors an All American High Tea in Collaboration with RALPH LAUREN May 12th to June 11th

    SEVVA Tailors an All American High Tea in Collaboration with RALPH LAUREN May 12th to June 11th

    If the thought of high tea feels quintessentially British, think again. Tastemaker extraordinaire Bonnae Gokson is creating another stylish afternoon tea set for yet another luxury fashion house – Ralph Lauren, to celebrate the launch of womenswear at the Landmark Prince’s flagship store. The brand has collaborated with SEVVA and will hold an All American Afternoon Tea there for the month – a high tea founded on favourite American flavours and inspired by the exclusive Cut Lace Capsule collection’s lace pattern.

    Ms Gokson has been a fan of the brand for years and it was just 2014 when Mr Ralph Lauren himself, held a big book launch party at his Madison mansion in New York for Bonnae’s award winning book launch.

    American Splendour

    Ralph Lauren made waves among the fashion glitterati when it opened a stunning womenswear level at Landmark Prince’s, where interiors and collections at the store are the epitome of cool and calming chic. The 10,000 square-foot Ralph Lauren Landmark Prince’s store will now feature a premium assortment of the luxury Women’s Collection, in addition to the existing Men’s Purple Label apparel and accessories. The availability of womenswear adds a new dimension to this Ralph Lauren flagship store and enhances it as a must-visit luxury shopping destination in Hong Kong.

    “Ralph Lauren stands for American traditional aesthetics, so I’ve created a high tea with time-honoured American favourites and including Ralph Lauren’s signature homemade carrot and cheese cake recipes to showcase the truly American taste” says Ms. Gokson, SEVVA’s stylish icon and founder.

    The master of American fashion and the Mistress of Hong Kong high society put their heads together and formed a remarkable new take on an old classic, to be presented at SEVVA, Hong Kong’s most fashionable dining address located just minutes from Ralph Lauren’s Landmark Prince’s store.

    Star Spangled

    Guests will be able to enjoy a plush tea set of 12 varieties of delectable nibbles such as Devilled Eggs with Bacon Crisps, Mac ‘n Cheese Spring Roll, Lobster & Avocado Sandwich, Chicken Waldorf Cup, Wagyu Beef Burger, Kurobuta Hot Dog, Peaches & Cream, Apple Crumble with Shaved Cheddar, Chocolate Dipped Strawberries and Ralph Lauren’s Signature of Chocolate Brownie, Carrot and Cheese Cake.  Also complimenting this scrumptious 3 tiered set will be a mini cake of chocolate print of Ralph Lauren classic handbag; The Soft Ricky, cut in lace effect. What can be more American than a banana split sundae in a cake to pare with this gorgeous design!

    Ralph Lauren Landmark Prince's Women's Floor 3 - 1MB

    Wistful lace designs seen on pieces in the Cut Lace Capsule Collection are honoured in chocolate on Ms. Gokson’s signature cherry-topped Banana Split Sundae cake – itself a culinary classic. Chewy brownies are fashionably attired in red, white and blue stripes or in Ralph Lauren Spring Collection colours. Strawberries coated in white chocolate furnish the striking sweets display.

    A full menu of curated teas is offered for selection to be enjoyed with SEVVA’s All American High Tea. Available at HK$820*.

    SEVVA’s All American High Tea will be offered exclusively for just one month only, beginning May 12th until June 11th, 2016. High Tea is available on weekdays from 2:30pm – 5:00pm, and Saturdays from 3:00pm – 5:30pm.

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  • Cambodia duty-free store opened by DFS

    Cambodia duty-free store opened by DFS

    Luxury travel retailer DFS Group has opened its first T Galleria by DFS store for Cambodia in the resort town of Siem Reap.

    Near the ancient temple of Angkor Wat, T Galleria by DFS, Angkor is the largest Cambodia duty-free luxury department store, offering an integrated retail, hospitality and leisure experience.

    The store is opening in phases until June, bringing 170 brands to the 86,000 sqft (7990 sqm) space, including fashion and accessories, watches and jewellery, wines and spirits, and beauty and fragrances as well as locally handcrafted artisan products.

    Next to Angkor National Museum and overlooking a park, the new outlet features traditional Khmer motifs and carvings by Cambodian artisans. Stone columns feature panels carved in styles reflecting the nearby temples and palaces of Angkor Wat, intricately patterned wall screens and floor tiles evoke local architecture, and a 20m art installation suspended above the store’s vaulted atrium, was inspired by the hues of Buddhist monks’ robes. More than 200 local sales associates will welcome customers.

    Several firsts for Cambodia duty-free come with the opening of the store, such as watches and jewellery brands Bulgari, Carl F Bucherer and Tiffany & Co and international fashion brands Burberry, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Saint Laurent and Zegna. There are also 12 exclusive beauty and fragrance brands such as Bobbi Brown, Cle de Peau Beaute, Mac and Sulwhasoo.

    Among Cambodian artisans featured are Angkor Artwork, whose master craftsmen Eric and Thierry Stocker produce lacquer and straw marquetry using traditional techniques. There is also Golden Silk, one of the last fully integrated silk producers in the world to use the rare yellow silkworm indigenous to Cambodia, and Samatoa, an eco-friendly accessories brand that has revived the technique of lotus-fibre weaving.

    T Galleria by DFS, Angkor has also teamed up with Artisans d’Angkor, a socially conscious business aimed at revitalising Cambodia’s traditional craftsmanship while pioneering a sustainable working environment. Its exclusive collection of handwoven silks and fine crafts were designed by and will benefit local artisans.

    An onsite restaurant, Crystal Jade, will open in June, the first outlet in Cambodia for the Singapore brand. It will serve traditional Chinese cuisine and dim sum dishes in a casual setting overlooking gardens and reflecting pools.

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  • Ralph Lauren profits tumble

    Ralph Lauren profits tumble

    US fashion label Ralph Lauren’s operating profit has tumbled almost 39 per cent year to date as it continues to restructure its operations.

    The latest quarterly numbers just released show a solid sequential improvement on the prior quarter, with the strength of the US dollar responsible for most of the headline deterioration. When reported on a constant currency basis, net revenues look more respectable, rising four per cent over the prior year.

    “Despite the fall in profits, Ralph Lauren has taken steps to help ease up its bottom line over the medium term,” comments Håkon Helgesen, retail analyst at Conlumino.

    “These include the global reorganisation into a centralised structure run by six global brand groups which, by the end of 2017, should yield an annual $100 million in terms of efficiency savings. This measure has, however, come with short term costs attached – $38 million of which were recognised during this quarter, and more of which will filter through into subsequent quarters.

    “Despite the squeeze this exerts on profits, we believe that Ralph Lauren is to be applauded for taking the long term view.”

    The global launch of Polo Sport was completed during the quarter and initial indications suggest it has been well received.

    “In our view this activewear brand gives Ralph Lauren a much more significant presence in a lucrative – and rapidly growing – part of the apparel market and will be a solid contributor to future growth,” said Helgesen.

    Geographically, although international growth was deflated by the unfavorable exchange rate, it remains in double digits when expressed in local currency terms.

    “The same cannot be said of Ralph Lauren’s home market where the company struggled to generate sales momentum. Stores in big city locations – which make up about half of the total fleet – have the legitimate excuse of reduced tourist spend, again related to the relative strength of the dollar. This has inevitably acted as a drag on growth.”

    Helgesen says despite sluggish growth and a more promotional retail environment, Ralph Lauren continues to be conservative about discounting.

    “Although this has likely cost it some sales in the US, it has helped to protect margins and, ultimately, brand equity. Again, this is an example of Ralph Lauren being confident enough to take the long term view.”

    Responsibility for the day-to-day running of the company will now fall to Stefan Larsson, who takes over as CEO from its founder Ralph Lauren this month.

    “While some have questioned Larsson’s background – he previously worked at the distinctly mass-market retailers Old Navy and H&M – this is, in our view, to ignore the skills he brings to the table. While these may not have been honed in a luxury brand environment, the operating disciplines of both fashion businesses are points of learning for Ralph Lauren as it continues its quest for efficiency.

    “In any case, Ralph Lauren – and his design prowess – will still be on hand as he takes up his new role of chairman and chief creative officer,” concluded Helgesen.