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Tag: luxury

  • Kering faces €1.4 billion Italian tax bill

    Kering faces €1.4 billion Italian tax bill

    Kering is facing an Italian claim for €1.4 billion (£1.2 billion) in unpaid taxes. The company’s Swiss-based Luxury Goods International (LGI) subsidiary has been under investigation for allegedly avoiding tax on earnings generated elsewhere. The probe has largely centred on Gucci, Kering’s star brand and biggest revenue driver. Italy’s tax police carried out checks at Gucci’s Florence headquarters and Milan offices in 2017, and drew up the report that has now been handed to Kering, a source close to the investigation said.

    Kering has consistently denied avoiding tax, saying its activities were fully compliant with all tax obligations.

    In its statement on Friday, the group said the Italian tax authorities’ findings for the years 2011-2017 had yet to be finalised by their own enforcement team.

    “Kering challenges the outcome of the audit report both on the grounds and the amount,” the company said, adding that it “does not have the necessary information” to record a provision against any potential bill for back taxes or penalties.

    The company has said that LGI is a substantial firm in its own right, with 600 employees handling inventory, billing and supply-chain logistics, with a business model “known to French and other competent tax authorities”.

    According to reports by France’s Mediapart newspaper and Germany’s Der Spiegel, Kering’s wholesale activities – the sale of products to retailers such as department stores – have come under particular scrutiny.

    Some business carried out by Kering employees in locations including Milan and Paris was billed through the Swiss unit, incurring lower tax rates, according to those reports.

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  • Record results for LVMH in 2018

    Record results for LVMH in 2018

    The world’s largest luxury retailer LVMH shrugged off broader market pessimism overnight reporting record revenue of €46.8 billion last year, up 10 per cent over 2017. Excluding the closure of the unprofitable Hong Kong airport duty-free business in December 2017, the group’s organic growth was 12 per cent. Every business division delivered what the company described as “excellent performances”.

    Group profit rose a staggering 21 per cent to €10 billion with operating margin reaching 21.4 per cent, an increase of 1.9 percentage points.

    “LVMH had another record year, both in terms of revenue and results,” said chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault. “The desirability of our brands, the creativity and quality of our products, the unique experience offered to our customers, and the talent and the commitment of our teams are the group’s strengths and have once again made the difference.”

    Arnault said this year the company would continue to innovate and target investments combining tradition and modernity.

    “In an environment that remains uncertain, we can count on the appeal of our brands and the agility of our teams to strengthen, once again, our leadership in the universe of high-quality products.”

    The company’s flagship Louis Vuitton business was a standout for the group, contributing much of the 15 per cent organic sales growth of the fashion and leather goods business division where profit from recurring operations was up 21 per cent.

    “Christian Dior had an excellent first full year within LVMH thanks to the creativity of Maria Grazia Chiuri for the women’s collections and to the arrival of Kim Jones, the new artistic director of Dior Homme,” the company said in its earnings statement.

    “Fendi and Loro Piana continued to assert their know-how throughout their collections. Celine entered a new and ambitious stage of its development with the arrival of Hedi Slimane as artistic, creative and image director of the brand.”

    Givenchy, Loewe and Kenzo “progressed well” while the other brands, Berluti and Rimowa continued to gain momentum.

    Watches and jewellery profit soars

    LVMH’s watches and jewellery business recorded organic revenue growth of 12 per cent – and a stunning 37 per cent increase in profit from recurring operations.

    “Bulgari performed very well and gained market share. Its iconic jewellery and watchmaking lines Serpenti, Diva’s Dream, B.Zero1, Lvcea and Octo grew strongly.”

    Chaumet’s growth was driven by the success of the Liens and Joséphine collections, particularly in Asia.

    In the watchmaking sector, Tag Heuer continued to expand its range and Hublot enjoyed strong growth, partly due to high visibility as the FIFA World Cup official timekeeper.

    DFS returns to profit

    A return to profitability for the travel-retail business DFS after it exited its Hong Kong airport concessions at the end of 2017 was a highlight of LVMH’s ‘selective retailing’ business unit last year. The business group achieved a 12 per cent improvement in organic revenue growth (excluding the airport business from the 2017 base comparison) and a 29 per cent improvement in profit.

    “DFS progressed strongly thanks to a particularly good performance in Hong Kong and Macau. The recently opened Gallerias in Cambodia and Italy also grew rapidly,” said LVMH.

    Sephora enjoyed unspecified growth in sales and market share, with strong online sales growth in Asia and North America. About 100 new stores opened worldwide, including the new Nanjing Road store in Shanghai and the first Sephora-branded stores in Russia.

    Scents of success

    The perfumes and cosmetics business division achieved organic revenue growth of 14 per cent, driven by the performance of its flagship brands, with profit from recurring operations up 13 per cent.

    “Parfums Christian Dior experienced remarkable growth and increased its market share in all regions of the world. The launch of its new perfume Joy and the exceptional worldwide success of Sauvage and the other iconic perfumes J’adore and Miss Dior are behind the strong growth of the Maison,” said LVMH.

    “Makeup and skincare also grew rapidly. Guerlain progressed well, driven in particular by the success of Abeille Royale in skincare and Rouge G in makeup. Benefit strengthened its leading position in the eyebrow segment and Parfums Givenchy accelerated its performance, thanks in particular to makeup and its new perfume L’interdit. Fresh and Fenty Beauty by Rihanna continued their exceptional growth.”

    Strong spirits

    The wines and spirits business group achieved organic revenue growth of 5 per cent and profit from recurring operations also increased by 5 per cent.

    “The business group reaffirmed its leadership position by pursuing its value strategy and balanced geographic development.”

    The Hennessy business enjoyed “strong momentum” in Mainland China, LVMH said.

  • Lanvin names Bruno Sialelli as its new creative director

    Lanvin names Bruno Sialelli as its new creative director

    Luxury fashion house Lanvin announced the appointment of Bruno Sialelli to the role of creative director. A relative unknown in the fashion world, Sialelli has worked for other luxury companies including most recently, Loewe, where he was head of menswear, under the guidance of the Spanish company’s creative director, Jonathan Anderson. Chinese conglomerate Fosun, who acquired Lanvin in 2018, said that the 31-year-old Frenchmen was hired to take the company in a “pivotal new direction,” a crucial call for the world’s oldest couture house.

    Lanvin’s chief executive Jean-Philippe Hecquet harmonised the sentiment.

    “We’re thrilled to welcome Bruno as the new creative director of Lanvin,” commented Hecquet. “His singular and very personal vision, his audacity, his culture, his energy and ability to build a strong creative team definitely convinced us. I can’t wait to discover Bruno’s first collections which will fully bring back to life this beautiful and unique fashion house, and once again inspire a passion among our customers.”

    In what has been a rollercoaster of a ride for the high-end French brand, Sialelli will take the top design spot as the fourth creative director to work at Lanvin in just four years.

    In 2015, Lanvin announced the shock departure of the label’s acclaimed designer Alber Elbaz, who was let go after disagreements with its previous owner, Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang. Elbaz had worked as Lanvin’s creative director for 14 years prior.

    Since then, it has been a tough slog for the 130-year-old company, which at its peak in 2012, was reportedly made 235 million euros, but sales have been steadily dropping ever since.

    In 2016, Lanvin reported a massive 18.3 million euro loss, after ten years of profitability.

    Following Elbaz’s departure, Bouchra Jarrar joined Lanvin, but quit as creative director after just a year-and-half, making way for Olivier Lapidus, who also quit, making way for Siaelli, the brand’s ray of hope.

    Before coming to Lanvin, Sialelli has also held design roles at brands like Paco Rabanne and Balenciaga. He is a fashion graduate of Studio Berçot in Paris.

  • Pronovias enters China with Shanghai store opening

    Pronovias enters China with Shanghai store opening

    Spanish bridalwear firm Pronovias has launched its first Chinese location in Shanghai. The 500sqm store is opening in luxury shopping centre Plaza 66, which hosts a range of high-end brands including Chanel and Dior. The move sparks off a greater strategy for the region, in which the Shanghai location will serve as Pronovias’s flagship.

    The brand was founded by BC Partners explicitly to tackle the difficult Chinese and American markets. China is the world’s largest producer of wedding dresses, and local custom is often to hire rather than buy the dress.

    The firm is simultaneously moving to expand in the US, with eight openings planned for the American East Coast.

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  • Diamanti Per Tutti makes debut in Singapore

    Diamanti Per Tutti makes debut in Singapore

    Belgian jewellery brand Diamanti Per Tutti has launched its first standalone store in Singapore at Raffles City Shopping Centre. Positioned as an affordable luxury label, Antwerp-based Diamanti Per Tutti retails 925 Sterling Silver items gilded with 18 carat pink or yellow gold vermeil or white rhodium, set by hand with real, ethically-sourced natural diamonds and gems.

    The brand, which has outlets in Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong, plans to open its second Singapore location in March.

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  • Why top watch marques no longer need Baselworld, SIHH?

    Why top watch marques no longer need Baselworld, SIHH?

    Dr Bernard Cheong has what he calls a “migration box” – a travel case that holds up to eight timepieces. “I like to say that these are the watches I will take with me if I have to relocate,” says the jovial 61-year-old, one of the world’s most prolific watch collectors. One of his most prized pieces is a S$3.3 million (US$2.4 million) Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1, numbered 00 in an 11-piece series. Its serial number indicates that it is the watchmaker’s personal prototype. It would not even have been sold, if not for Cheong’s clout. He believes the watch can eventually command up to S$5 million.

    In 2011, he made history when he became the first ambassador for the Geneva-based Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie who was not from the watch industry. He helped formulate the transparent jury system, and an audited and numbered voting system, for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2002, a high-end watchmaking contest, before introducing it to Asia.

    His expertise is drawn from decades of experience of watch buying and selling and forging close relationships with watchmakers and retailers. This has also put him in the unique position of being an industry observer with unfiltered, and sometimes contrary, insights.

    For instance, he does not mince words when talking about the recent issues surrounding the industry’s key watch fairs, Baselworld and SIHH. The two fairs recently announced they would be synchronizing their calendars to run back to back, following a fall in the number of Baselworld exhibitors.

    “It is a reality of the industry. The exhibitors do not need to be there any more – why pay so much to exhibit like this?” he says. Cheong notes that watchmakers today can easily bypass industry fairs by offering information about their latest creations directly to consumers via the internet.

    Protecting his beloved industry is something Cheong takes seriously. In China, the recent crackdown on conspicuous consumption has led to a drop in sales and to brands like Richemont buying back unsold stock. “It is smart for the companies to buy back their precious pieces. When times are hard, people will sell watches at any price to put food on the table,” he says. This could lead to a massive undercutting in prices, he adds.

    “They did the right thing to retain control of prices.”

  • Samsung Philippines redesigns its Manila store

    Samsung Philippines redesigns its Manila store

    Samsung Philippines has launched a redesigned flagship store in Manila. Located in CyberZone at SM Megamall, the store is designed to showcase the brand’s latest technologies and aesthetics, with U-shaped center bars built to facilitate one-on-one communication with customers as they interact with the products. A central ‘Newness Table’ serves to show off the most recent Samsung innovations.

    Accessories are given the same exposure as the more expensive offerings with equal opportunities for consumers to examine and try before they buy. Dedicated spaces are reserved for Gear S watches and Samsung Gear VR offerings, as well as audio products such as speakers and headphones.

    The flagship also houses a revamped customer service area, featuring experience lounges and consumer learning programs.

    “Samsung as a brand has always been known to consistently redefine the new normal and to go beyond expectations. Over the years, our mobile phones have set the benchmark for what the consumers need and want”, said Samsung Philippines president James Jung. “The new store design heralds a new chapter in Samsung retail, enabling customers to engage with our brand and products in new ways.”

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  • Gucci adds 6 new intriguing Gucci Places

    Gucci adds 6 new intriguing Gucci Places

    Luxury fashion brand Gucci has labelled six international destinations as ‘Gucci Places’ – a list that includes Daelim Museum in Seoul. The Gucci Places were selected by the Italian Fashion House as destinations that “surprise, arouse interest, and inspire a creative response”, according to a report in Prestige Online. They were chosen in collaboration with well-known artists who were tasked with visiting the place and record their impressions, establishing a visual journey of photographs, travel notes and sketches.

    Daelim Museum was named for its association with Coco Capitan, an artist whose calligraphy has appeared on Gucci collections.

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  • Ssangyong teases new Korando

    Ssangyong teases new Korando

    SsangYong Motor said Monday it will release a brand new sport utility vehicle in March that will replace its current Korando C SUV. The fresh model, which has been developed under the project name C300, will simply be called the “Korando,” according to the carmaker. Korando is one of SsangYong’s oldest lineups, alongside Tivoli and Rexton. The company decided to retain the name, hoping that would boost sales.

    It is the first entirely new car in the Korando lineup in eight years, since the company rolled out the midsize SUV Korando C – since then, it has just been revamped versions of existing models. Cars sold under the Korando label include the Korando Sports, Korando Turismo and Korando C, which will be discontinued when the new Korando launches.

    SsangYong also unveiled three teaser images of the car on Monday. The carmaker said it used a low and wide design for the car’s body, following a global trend. The front of the vehicle resembles SsangYong’s popular compact SUV Tivoli.

    The automaker has added various driver assistant features to the car. With the SUV market expanding, SsangYong hopes to grow its market share in the local car market with the anticipated release.

    A spokesperson from SsangYong said the new car will be the “most fascinating and high-tech Korando-branded car in history.”

  • Kia Motors begins sales of 2020 edition of Sorento SUV

    Kia Motors begins sales of 2020 edition of Sorento SUV

    Kia Motors announced Monday it has begun rolling out the 2020 model of its Sorento sport-utility vehicle (SUV) for sale. The updated Sorento comes with new safety features applied to all of its diesel trims and a refreshed design. The diesel version of the compact crossover SUV will have smart safety features, such as lane keep assist, lane departure warning, driver attention warning and others on all of its trims.

    As for design, the automaker said it applied a newly designed dark chrome grille on all of its models, with the highest trim model installed with 19-inch chrome alloy wheels.

    The new model also comes with a new premium trim called “master special,” which features more options, such as rear occupant alert and a head-up display.

    The SUV comes in diesel and gasoline models, with the base diesel model starting at 27.88 million won ($25,000).

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  • French furniture brand Roche Bobois opens showroom in Singapore

    French furniture brand Roche Bobois opens showroom in Singapore

    French high-end furniture brand Roche Bobois has announced the opening of its Singapore showroom with a brand new design concept. The 5300sqft Roche Bobois Singapore showroom is located in the Boon Siew Building on Bukit Timah Road features an expansive floor-to-ceiling window to frame the brand’s collections, designed to resemble a jewel box from a distance.

    “Singapore is a city known for its appreciation of modernity and open-mindedness and these ideals are central to the Roche Bobois brand”, said company CEO Gilles Bonan.

    “This opening demonstrates the brand’s ambitions in Asia; we are already present in China, Hong Kong, South Korea, the Philippines, Japan, Vietnam and India and we intend to increase our presence in this strategic part of the world.”

    Roche Bobois operates more than 265 showrooms in more than 55 countries. After 17 new stores opened in 2017, it continued its growth last year in cities such as Hanoi, Washington, Tokyo and San Diego, with the Roche Bobois Singapore showroom its latest globally.

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  • Excess car demand for Tet holiday drives prices up in Vietnam

    Excess car demand for Tet holiday drives prices up in Vietnam

    The surge in demand for cars before the Lunar New Year means customers have to wait or pay extra to get immediate delivery. With only weeks to go for the Lunar New Year Festival (Tet), which falls on February 5 this year, consumers are rushing to order automobiles leading to a shortage in the market. They either have to wait for a long time for delivery or, for quick delivery, opt for accessories which can cost an extra VND70-150 million ($3,013-6,458).

    For instance, Hyundai SUV Santa Fe requires an extra VND70-160 million ($3,013-6,887), which is 7-16.1 percent above the minimum listed price, while for the Toyota Fortuner it is VND100-150 million ($4,305-6,457). But most customers will have to wait until March for delivery if they signed the purchase agreement last November or later.

    The only way to get guaranteed delivery before Tet is to buy from someone who signed earlier, car dealers said, explaining that a dealership only gets around 20 units in each model per month but demand is two to three times that number.

    The shortage is because of difficulties in importing at the beginning of 2018 as a result of a new regulation tightening imports, Tran Thanh Binh, director of Thanh Binh Automobile Import Export Trading Service Co Ltd, said.

    The regulation stipulates that traders are only permitted to import if they can provide valid vehicle registration certificates issued by authorities from the countries of origin.

    Original quality control certificates for each vehicle and letters of authorization regarding recalls of defective vehicles from the manufacturers are also required, along with copies of quality assurance certificates provided by the countries of origin.

    “This made companies stop ordering from factories in Indonesia and Thailand. The second half of 2018, however, with these difficulties resolved, businesses have started to order again. But, since the factories also produce for many other markets, Vietnam was not able to order enough,” he explained.

    Vietnam imported 6,362 cars, including 4,264 personal cars, 1,820 trucks in the first 15 days of 2019, according to Vietnam Customs.

  • Thai’s King Power Duty Free, World’s Leading Airport Duty Free Operator 2018

    Thai’s King Power Duty Free, World’s Leading Airport Duty Free Operator 2018

    Thailand’s King Power Duty Free has won the world’s ultimate accolade for travel, tourism and hospitality industry excellence, voted ‘World’s Leading Airport Duty Free Operator 2018 in the 25th World Travel Awards. King Power Duty Free triumphed ahead of than a hundred duty free operators worldwide including shortlisted finalists China Duty Free Group, Hong Kong’s DFS, Dubai Duty Free, Swiss-based Dufry, Duty Free Americas, Germany’s Heinemann Duty Free, France’s Lagardere Travel Retail, and South Korea’s Lotte Duty Free and The Shilla Duty Free.

    “The award strengthens Thailand’s tourism image as a world class destination while underlining the outstanding capability of a Thai company,” said King Power Group CEO, Mr Aiyawatt Srivaddhanaprabha. “King Power is proud to be Thai and committed to the national travel retail business, setting a new benchmark for world-class duty free shopping experience.”

    Operated by King Power International, King Power Duty Free was earlier voted Asia’s Leading Airport Duty Free Operator 2018 in the regional finals of the World Travel Awards.

    World Travel Award was established in 1993 to annually acknowledge, reward, and celebrate excellence across key sectors of the travel, tourism and hospitality industries. Today the brand is recognized globally as the ultimate hallmark of industry excellence, voted by travel, tourism and consumer trade executives.

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  • Net-a-Porter launches kidswear with Gucci

    Net-a-Porter launches kidswear with Gucci

    After its Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana childrenswear pop-up e-shops generated a resounding “more!” from Net-a-porter.com customers, the retailer is launching a multi-brand kidswear collective. By “collective”, Net-a-porter.com means, quite simply, a tight edit of brands which have all created exclusive capsule collections for the website. Yeah Right NYC Kids, Alanui Kids, ATM Kids, Chinti & Parker Kids, Lingua Franca Kids, Golden Goose Deluxe and Veja make up the list of seven labels for girls and boys ages one to 12.

    “The new year felt like the perfect time to launch this collective,” Elizabeth von der Goltz, Net-a-porter.com’s global buying director, tells Mini Vogue. “It’s January – kids are back to school but there’s this idea of cosiness and wanting to feel comfortable.”

    The capsules, accordingly, reflect this: cashmere sweaters, comfy cardigans, track pants and trainers populate the new section. “Whether it’s for ourselves or for our kids, we are always thinking about wellness in January so this this an extension of that – it’s luxe athleisure for kids!”

    If the list of brands feels more offbeat than the global labels Net-a-porter.com first dabbled in the kidswear market with, this was intentional.

    “As an online global retailer known for our distinct fashion point of view, we wanted to take this and bring it to the kidswear market, creating something different from traditional retailers.”

    Von der Glotz is particularly excited about the patterned cardies from Alanui Kids collection and the mini-me versions of Golden Goose and Veja sneakers – two of Net-a-porter.com’s best-selling shoe styles.

    The e-tailer is confident it has quietly developed a recipe for success: “Our customers have been highly engaged with all of our kidswear pop-ups with most styles selling out within just a matter of weeks of launching,” she continues.

    Four out of five of the Gucci products sold were logo T-shirts, and the fifth was the belt bag. “It’s so interesting to see, as the pieces are in such high demand in our adult range too.” Starting them early is certainly paying off for the business.

  • Sergio Rossi redefines the power pump

    Sergio Rossi redefines the power pump

    “It is a new definition of the power pump,” is how celebrity stylist Elizabeth Stewart describes styles from her capsule collection with Sergio Rossi. Stewart, who counts Julia Roberts and Viola Davis among her clients, celebrated the launch of the collaboration Thursday in Los Angeles at the Italian luxury brand’s pop-up store at Westfield Century City.

    Pumps and sandals in black, red and light pink are emblazoned with empowering words like “strength,” “hope,” “kindness” and “sharing.” The messages are meant to give women a chance to embrace style, substance and solidarity, with 100 percent of sales supporting Time’s Up, an organization dedicated to women’s safety and equality in the workplace.

    “I wanted the shoes to be a sort of a talisman for the wearer,” Stewart told Footwear News at the event. “First it was ‘strength’ and ‘power’. The idea being you can go on a job interview and you put them on and it gives you strength, but also I don’t want to forget things that women want to be, like kind and sharing. It’s a reminder and source of strength.”

    Sergio Rossi Group CEO Riccardo Sciutto said working with Stewart on the collection was an organic process as she has had a longtime relationship styling her famous clients in the brand’s shoes.

    “When you get trust, the relationship is stronger and it’s easy to do something together all the time,” Sciutto said, adding that it’s the label’s first time supporting a social movement issue.

    Though the words and messages on the shoes were easy to conceive, rendering them on the shoes proved to be a challenge. Initially, Serigo Rossi designers tried to emboss the verbiage, but the production technique used to pull the leather material made the words unreadable, Sciutto explained. To achieve the desired effect, the designers created a special technique to print the words in a slightly different but matching color on the material.

    Along with Stewart’s capsule, which is sold exclusively at the store through March 6, the space also features 37 different styles from Sergio Rossi’s resort ’19 and spring ’19 collections, as well as a customization bar.

    The temporary digs are a part of Sciutto’s retail expansion strategy in the American market. “Half of the business is in Asia, and the rest is split between Europe and America. America is the opportunity. It’s the smallest market for us,” he added.

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