Category: Fashion

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  • Adidas, H&M best students of the class in supply chain transparency

    Adidas, H&M best students of the class in supply chain transparency

    Adidas and sister business Reebok have topped a list of 150 of the world’s largest brands and retailers measured on supply chain transparency, according to Fashion Revolution’s 2018 index.

    Released overnight in the UK, the sixth edition of the Fashion Transparency Index has tracked an increase in industry stakeholders disclosing their suppliers, but the average score across all 150 brands and retailers surveyed was just 52 out of a possible 250 points, or 21 per cent.

    Adidas Group scored 58 per cent to top the list, beating the likes of H&M, Gap and Puma – who all scored lower in the 51-60 per cent range.

    The most improved brands on the list were The North Face, Timberland and Wrangler, which saw their scores increase by 22 per cent compared to last year’s index.

    The international transparency findings come less than a week after Baptist World Aid’s local report found that a large portion of Australian retailers are still failing the ethical grade when it comes to supply chain ethics.

    Fashion Revolution, which is partly funded by the charitable arm of global fashion retailer C&A, scores some of the world’s largest retailers and brands on five areas, including governance, policy & commitments, traceability, the ability to spotlight issues and the capacity to identify and address problems.

    Traceability and capacity to identify and address supply chain issues are weighted most heavily, accounting for 64 per cent of total scoring.

    Brands scoring between 51-60 per cent provide detailed supplier lists, including manufacturers and processing facilities.

    The likes of Zara, ASOS, G-Star, Levi Strauss & Co and The North Face all scored in the 41-50 per cent range, which is described as being likely to provide detailed supplier lists, as well as information about policies, procedures and goals.

    Further down the list in the 31-40 per cent category are a myriad of luxury and premium brands, including Gucci, Hugo Boss, Burberry and Hugo Boss, as well as sneaker giant Nike and Target (US).

    At the bottom in the 0-10 per cent range are those who have either not published supplier lists or publish little information, which is by far the largest category on the index at 48 brands.

    Amazon, Neiman Marcus and Forever 21 all scored between 10-5, while Dior and Nine West both scored 0, among others.

    Of the 98 brands and retailers on the list that were scored last year there was a 5 per cent average increase in scores, while 22 brands (or 15 per cent) have increased their traceability score by more than 10 per cent.

    Fashion Revolution said the results indicate that there’s still a “long way to go”, but that an influx of additional brands onto the index had weighed down 2018’s average score.

    “This year, 65 brands and retailers (or 43 per cent) have scored 21 per cent or higher — above the mean average score — compared to 43 brands and retailers (or 43 per cent) in 2017. 42 brands and retailers (or 28 per cent) have scored 31 per cent or higher, compared to 20 brands and retailers (or 20 per cent) in 2017,” it said.

    Overall higher scored were achieved in the areas of governance and policy & commitments than actioned traceability and a demonstrated ability to identify and address problems.

    H&M, which scored 92 per cent in policy & commitments and a 77 per cent in governance scored a much lower 47 per cent in traceability.

  • Australian brands named and shamed

    Australian brands named and shamed

    A host of non-governmental organisations and unions have accused prominent Australian retailers of refusing to sign an updated version of the 2013 Rana Plaza accord on the eve of the fifth anniversary of the Bangladesh building collapse.

    Oxfam Australia, Baptist World Aid, the Australian Council of Trade Unions and others are urging Australian brands to sign the 2018 version of the safety accord before the original 2013 agreement expires next month.

    The 2013 document, struck in partnership with more than 200 brands in the wake of the Rana Plaza Building collapse, which killed more than 1100 workers in Bangladesh, outlines standards and commitments to improving conditions for garment factory workers.

    The group said 2013 signatories such as Noni-B, Workwear Group and Licensing Essentials were “dragging their feet” and had not yet signed the new agreement, while those who had not signed the 2013 accord, such as Myer, Just Group, Best and Less and Country Road, had not yet committed to the updated agreement either.

    “Signing the Accord is about ensuring the absolute basics in the rights of more than two million garment workers – more than 70 per cent of whom are women – in Bangladesh,” Oxfam Austraia’s chief executive Helen Szoke said.

    A variety of retailers have already signed the updated agreement, including Kmart, Big W, Cotton On, Specialty Fashion Group and APG and Co.

    Globally Swedish fashion giant H&M, PVH Brands, Arcadia Group and Aldi are all already signatories.

    The new agreement maintains key features of the 2013 accord, such as independent safety inspections and the institution of remediation programs for workers, while extending safety committee and training initiatives to all factories covered.

    There are also new provisions in the legally binding accord related to freedom of association rights.

    Rob Wayss, executive director and acting chief safety inspector of the accord said that the agreement builds on the fundamental elements outlined in the 2013 accord.

    “The new agreement demonstrates that international brands and global trade unions recognise the positive impact of the Accord and the need for the Accord to continue its work in Bangladesh to ensure that factories are made safe and stay safe,” he said.

    Aussie brands failing the grade

    Last week Baptist World Aid released its annual ethical fashion report, which found that only a small minority of Australian retailers are making the ethical grade when it comes to their supply chains.

    Some brands, such as Decjuba have opted not to participate and were given F scores.

    Decjuba has been the subject of an email blast by Baptist World Aid in the days following the release on the report, but the brand has defended its ethical veracity, saying that BWA’s report reflects its own philosophy.

    “We appreciate the intentions of the Baptist World Aid Guide, but also recognise it as an unregulated survey driven by the Baptist World Aid Organisation’s own set of beliefs,” the company said last week.

    Others such as A scorer Cotton On Group have embraced the report and have worked towards improving their score.

    “We know that our responsibility goes far beyond selling clothes and we endeavour to use our size and scale of operations to have a positive impact on people, communities and the planet,” Cotton On Group’s risk and sustainability general manager James Hubbard said.

  • Boardriders appoints new Billabong management

    Boardriders appoints new Billabong management

    BillabongBillabong International’s new owner Boardriders Inc is clearing the decks, appointing 17 new senior leaders that will oversee a turnaround of the company’s ailing global operations.

    Under the changes Billabong’s chief executive Neil Fiske will depart, alongside CFO Jim Howell, general counsel Tracey Wood, HR chief Mara Pagotto and GSM Operations GM Paul Burdekin.

    Boardriders chief executive Dave Tanner announced the management shake up over the weekend, appointing the parent company’s president, Greg Healy to lead the Asia Pacific arm of the business, which includes Australian operations for the Billabong, Element, RVCA, Von Zipper and Xcel brands.

    Healy will also serve on Billabong’s new board alongside Shannan North, who will also step in as Billabong’s global president of retail strategy.

    Former Bebe stores finance principal financial officer Joseph Scirocco has come on as chief financial officer, while Boardriders COO Julie Ott will also serve as operations chief for Billabong International.

    The appointments are effective 24 April, the day that the transaction of Billabong finalises.

    Tanner said the leadership team combines seasoned boardriders talent and expertise from outside of the organisation.

    This team will lead the integration of two great companies, creating the world’s leading action sports company. I am particularly excited to announce the elevations of Greg Healy and Shannan North, who bring significant industry experience and will be instrumental in leading our global growth with their new Board responsibilities,” he said.

    “We want to thank Neil Fiske, Peter Myers, Tracey Wood, Jim Howell, Mara Pagotto, Paul Burdekin and the Billabong Board of Directors for their dedication to the success of Billabong, its people and heritage,” Tanner added.

    Full list of Billabong appointments

      • Greg Healy, Global President, President APAC, Board of Directors responsibilities.
      • Shannan North, Global President, Billabong and Retail Strategy, Board of Directors responsibilities.
      • Joe Scirocco, Chief Financial Officer.
      • Thomas Chambolle, President EMEA.
      • Jean Louis Rodrigues, General Manager Wholesale EMEA.Nate Smith, President Americas.
      • Dan Levine, Chief Brand Officer.
      • Garry Wall, Global General Manager Quiksilver.
      • Emilie Souvras, Global General Manager Roxy.
      • Mike Jensen, Global General Manager DC Shoes.
      • Kevin Meehan, Global General Manager RVCA.
      • David Brooks, Global General Manager Element.
      • Ilene Eskenazi, Chief Human Resources Officer and Global General Counsel.
      • Julie Ott, Chief Operating Officer.
      • Mike Yerkes, Chief Logistics Officer.
      • Nico Foulet, Chief Information Officer.
      • Sonia Lapinsky, Chief Integration Officer.
  • Adidas draws local expansion with new partner signup

    Adidas draws local expansion with new partner signup

    Global sportswear brand Adidas has signed on a second franchise partner in Australia as it looks to expand its mono-branded retail footprint locally.

    Atomic Group, which is owned by Sportsco managing director Tom Kiing, will be entrusted with the brand and will look to “quickly build up” adidas’ local store network, which is currently made up of around 28 locations nationwide.

    Adidas has a withstanding partnership with Sports Power owner Zorich Group, who will continue to distribute the brand exclusively in South Australia.

    Adidas Pacific’s general manager Steve Castledine said Atomic were the “ideal partner”, and that he was confident Atomic would provide a strong understanding of the local market.

    “After a comprehensive search, we believe we have found an excellent partner in Atomic Group to further extend the reach of our brand to more consumers in Australia,” he said.

    Australian consumers love the adidas brand and we’re excited to partner with Tom and Atomic Group to deliver our unique brand experience to more centres around Australia.”

    Kiing, who has stocked adidas products in Sportsco stores for 30 years, said there’s an “immense” opportunity to expand the sportswear brand’s presence in Australia.

    “Leveraging our current infrastructure and knowledge in retail, our people, systems and leasing knowledge, we see an immense opportunity to work with adidas in partnership to quickly build up the adidas store network within Australia,” he said.

    “We believe that ultimately the Australian consumer will benefit from having more points of presence of this iconic brand and its products within the Australian marketplace.”

  • Innisfree Vietnam pop-up boosts brand

    Innisfree Vietnam pop-up boosts brand

    Korean cosmetics brand Innisfree has opened its first pop-up store, inside Saigon Center in Ho Chi Minh City, from now until Sunday.

    Called New Hydration Station, the Innisfree Vietnam pop-up introduces the brand’s new green tea range through different sections such as Hydration Station, Hydration Wash Zone, Beauty Wash, Green Tea Store, Green Tea Zone.

     

    After the pop-up, the brand will open new store at Crescent Mall in District 7, in the hub of the city’s Korean community.

    During the first two days, customers will get the chance to receive Innisfree tumblers, eco bags, and masks with bills over VND300,000.

    After arriving in Vietnam in 2016, Innisfree has opened four stores, all in Ho Chi Minh City.

  • Prada Silver Line kicks off at Pacific Place

    Prada Silver Line kicks off at Pacific Place

    Prada Silver Line, a pop-up store with a railway station theme, has arrived at the Garden Court of Hong Kong’s Pacific Place.

    An itinerant project, which had its debut in Macau in December, it offers exclusive women’s and men’s bags and accessories that match each destination of the journey.

    Covering about 147sqm, the pop-up represents the Italian luxury brand on the move. It replicates part of a train with a metal exterior reminiscent of the American Streamliners of the ’30s and ’50s. The interior walls feature floral-patterned red silk brocade, and the setting is completed with a black-and-white checkered floor that has characterised Prada stores internationally since 1913.

    Around the train, the illuminated platforms have installations that continue the train theme:

    Prada Robots as porters with luggage trolleys, and a ticket kiosk that turns into a concierge that can arrange the home delivery of purchases.

    The exhibition ends on 29 April.

  • Offline sales activities for Fashionally.com

    Offline sales activities for Fashionally.com

    Fashionally.com, an HKTDC-endorsed website that promotes Hong Kong fashion, is organising a retail event at PMQ in Central from next Friday.

    The 23 Senses event will be held over three weeks to introduce Hong Kong designers and new labels including SFZ Sons, a collaboration between Sonic Lam and street artist Start From Zero, and YMDH by Jason Lee, last year’s Best Footwear Design Award winner at YDC (Young Designers Contest). YLY Studio, newly launched by design duo Matt Hui and Lilian Tsang, will be offering its first collection inspired by the art of embroidery and knitwear.

    Labels such as Kenson, Kurt Ho, Necro Poon and NelsonBlackle, which are mostly sold overseas, will be available locally.

    Promotional offers for 23 Senses shoppers include a chance to win a hand-drawn t-shirt by illustrator Calvin Kwok.

  • Meghan Markle gives Oroton Label a boost

    Meghan Markle gives Oroton Label a boost

    Embattled Australian accessories label Oroton has hit headlines for good reasons when Prince Harry’s fiancee, Meghan Markle, was spotted with one of its handbags.

    The former Suits actress was sporting Oroton’s Avalon Stripe Crosboody bag, which retails for $295, during a Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting event in London this week.

    Oroton, which fell into voluntary administration six months ago, has jumped on the opportunity, splashing photos and video of Markle’s entrance to the event across its website.

    “As seen on future Royal, Meghan Markle, at the Commonwealth Youth Forum in London,” the company says on its site.

    The bag has sold out and shoppers will have to wait until August before more stock arrives.

    This type of support from a celebrity, particularly a future royal, is priceless, says retail academic Gary Mortimer of the Queensland University of Technology’s business school.

    “Images of Meghan Markle will permeate social media, including Instagram and Facebook, in coming days,” Professor Mortimer said.

    “The story is being covered by mainstream media and very quickly that particular handbag will be sold out if it hasn’t already.”

    But Prof Mortimer said such strong sales were usually short-lived because consumers were “fickle and are always looking for the next big thing”.

    Debt-laden Oroton called in administrators in late November after making a $14.3 million annual loss because of consistently weak sales.

    It’s among a string of luxury retailers to hit financial strife in the past year, including Topshop, Marcs, David Lawrence, Herringbone and Rhodes & Beckett.

    The company’s stores have continued to operate under administrators and its creditors have backed a $25 million plan to hand control of the company to major shareholder and funds manager Will Vicars.

  • YNAP Clicks with Customers By Launching First Dedicated Platform For Fine Jewellery

    YNAP Clicks with Customers By Launching First Dedicated Platform For Fine Jewellery

    YNAP, the world’s leading online luxury fashion retailer, has today launched its first dedicated online destination for fine jewellery and luxury watches to serve a fast-growing customer base seeking to purchase high-value items in a single click.

    The destination – part of NET-A-PORTER’s website – features an extensive fine jewellery collection from more than 40 brands, including Piaget, Cartier, Pomellato, Tiffany & Co. and Buccellati, and select items priced at over €100,000. New and extensive content will be available for customers including “how to” on topics such as fine jewellery storage and care, diamond education, as well as style inspiration. Customers will also be able to speak to personal shoppers who have been trained by the Gemological Institute of America.

    Fine jewellery and watches is a key part of YNAP’s five-year strategy to grow its high-end luxury category in response to strong customer demand. The Group has pioneered the category online, leveraging its first mover advantage to establish itself as the leader in online sales of hard luxury products.  The success to date on both NET-A-PORTER and its stablemate, MR PORTER shows that many customers now have no hesitation in making these exclusive luxury purchases online.

    Speaking at a luxury industry conference in Portuga, Federico Marchetti, CEO of YNAP, said: “This explosion in fine jewellery and watches shows there’s no limit to what customers will buy online with us. And we are now getting a fascinating insight into who these hard luxury customers are and what they are prepared to buy online.”

    Mr Marchetti said: “Fine jewellery and watches are the perfect complement to high fashion and the category is expected to create an opportunity for sales of 100m euros by 2020 for YNAP. We surprised the sector by introducing this successful category, and the potential of our online platforms for branded jewellery and luxury watches is huge.”

    Key customer insight on fine jewellery and watches from NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER includes:

    • Two thirds of fine jewellery and watch sales on NET-A-PORTER now come from the Group’s most loyal customers, known as Extremely Important People (EIPs)
    • A quarter of NET-A-PORTER’s sales come via personal shoppers, demonstrating the importance of service, while the majority of customers are buying either as a gift for themselves or to wear for a special event
    • The majority of fine jewellery and watch customers for both NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER are from the US, with the UK and Hong Kong the next biggest markets
    • Cartier launched on MR PORTER earlier this month, complementing its array of existing fine watch brands. MR PORTER also recently unveiled an exclusive Bell & Ross sapphire watch retailing at €400,000, the most expensive item the Group has ever carried across its sites
    • NET-A-PORTER EIPs typically own around 35 pieces of fine jewellery and watches in their collection and they enjoy benefits such as EIP previews (providing early access to pieces) and one-to-one appointments with Personal Shoppers. Customers also buy after seeing something they love, even when it comes to fine jewellery
    • When NET-A-PORTER introduced Cartier in 2017, it sold a £113,000 pavé limited-edition Panthère de Cartier watch on the day of launch – the most expensive item sold on the e-commerce fashion site so far
    • On MR PORTER, which first started selling luxury watches in 2013, the fine watches offering is generating new customers. They are initially attracted by the watches– especially aviation and sports based watches – but they then go on to shop other categories, such as from leading designers including Tom Ford, Brunello Cucinelli and Gucci

     

  • Ecommerce sales record for Yves Saint Laurent

    Ecommerce sales record for Yves Saint Laurent

    Yves Saint Laurent Beaute has set a record for the most sales by a beauty brand in its first day on Tmall, reports the Chinese B2C shopping platform.

    In just 14 hours, the L’Oreal-owned brand generated more than RMB30 million (US$4.77 million) in sales when it opened its Tmall flagship store. Ten hours later, sales had reached RMB38 million, with the store’s followers totalling 1.2 million.

    French fashion brand Givenchy set the previoussingle-day sales record of RMB29 million when it made its Tmall debut last month.

    L’Oreal says the appetite for high-end make-up has accelerated this year, largely driven by Chinese consumers. Its luxury labels also include Giorgio Armani Beauty, Kiehl’s and Lancome.

    “The luxury market is really flying right now,” says L’Oreal Group chairman/CEO Jean-Paul Agon. “In geographic terms, the highlight of the first quarter is the return to strong growth in the new markets, especially in Asia Pacific.”

    Interactive offering

    YSL Beaute has also joined Tmall’s Luxury Pavilion, making it one of the first brands to launch on the site’s dedicated section for premium brands. Tmall and YSL Beaute have developed interactive features that can display make-up shades in various ways. For example, when Tmall app users tilt their smartphones they can see images of models with and without lipstick applied.

    “Our product pages should be the coolest on Tmall to date,” says YSL Beaute China brand director Sebastian Xing.

    Tmall is more than a sales channel, he says. It is able to tell brand stories and heighten engagement with consumers.

    YSL Beaute is already tapping into the platform’s consumer analytics to inform product research and development, and will design marketing campaigns catering to Tmall user preferences, says Xing.

    Tmall’s latest figures show that more than half of YSL Beaute customers on the platform fall within the 18-25 age group, while consumers’ 26 to 30 years old make up 22.4 per cent – a far younger turnout compared to YSL Beaute offline counters, where the average customer age is about 27.

  • Sequential Brands signs deal for Chinese market

    Sequential Brands signs deal for Chinese market

    Sequential Brands Group has signed a multi-year deal that will take its Avia sports shoes to Greater China.

    Its agreement with Beiying Sports Technology, a manufacturer and distributor, involves the companies developing and distributing men’s, women’s and children’s footwear, apparel and accessories. The new collection will launch this year across all retail channels.

    Beiying also plans to open Avia stores, including flagship outlets in key metropolitan Chinese cities, over the next few years.

    China is an important market with its growing sports industry, says Sequential’s active division president Eddie Esses.

    “With a rich heritage since 1979, the brand resonates extremely well with the Chinese consumer,” says Beiying MD Jinzhang Lin.

    Advisory group Symphony Investment Partners, helped the US group with the transaction.
    Based in Fujian Province, Beiying is a subsidiary of the industrial group Hengchong.

  • Macau the cornerstone for Cartier

    Macau the cornerstone for Cartier

    Cartier jewellery company and luxury travel retailer DFS Group are jointly hosting an exhibition at T Galleria by DFS, Macau, Shoppes at Four Seasons to showcase Santos de Cartier timepieces.

    Running until the end of next month, the exhibition involves lighting effects and contrasting textures, with an emphasis on lacquered black and brushed metal. It has two spaces, with the Santos de Cartier watches in one while the other has a data hub with LED lighting and digital screens.

    Santos de Cartier revolutionised watchmaking when launched in 1904. It came four years after master jeweller Louis Cartier met aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, who spoke about the difficulty of checking the time on his pocket watch while flying. Cartier invented the first purpose-designed wristwatch for his friend.

    A feature of the watches today is the strap, with steel, gold, calfskin or alligator skin options. All versions are interchangeable thanks to the Cartier QuickSwitch system, an invisible mechanism that blends into the structure of the case making it easy for the wearer to activate. Another feature is the SmartLink self-fitting technology, which enables the length of the metal bracelet to be adjusted to the nearest link without the use of a tool.

  • Nike loses another one,  fourth executive in a week

    Nike loses another one, fourth executive in a week

    Nike’s vice president of footwear Greg Thompson will be the fourth executive to leave the sneaker giant in a week, joining a growing chorus of other vice presidents that have taken their leave recently amid a corporate culture shake-up.

    Thompson, who has been with the company for decades, follows VP of diversity and inclusion Antoine Andrews out the door, as well as longtime employees VP of global digital brand marketing innovation Daniel Tawiah and senior brand director for Nike Basketball Vikrant Singh.

    Only last month Nike announced the departure of two other senior executives, brand president Trevor Edwards and general manager of global categories Jayme Martin, in two consecutive days.

    Martin’s departure came after a report in the Wall Street Journal alleged that he had been involved in inappropriate conduct.

    It comes amid an investigation into workplace conduct at Nike under chief executive Mark Parker and the implementation of a new human resources strategy designed to better promote diversity.

    Earlier this month Nike’s human resources chief Monique Matheson issued a company memo conceding that the company had “failed” in promoting and hiring women and minorities to senior level positions within the company.

    “While we’ve spoken about this many times, and tried different ways to achieve change, we have failed to gain traction,”  the memo read.

    “Our hiring and promotion decisions are not changing senior-level representation as quickly as we have wanted.

    Currently only 29 per cent of Nike’s vice presidents are women while in the US only 16 per cent are people of colour.

    Nike will now renew its efforts to address this disparity with immediate effect, Matheson said.

    Nike has more than 70,000 employees worldwide and several hundred vice presidents.

  • Castelbajac Taiwan planning its third store

    Castelbajac Taiwan planning its third store

    Korean golf-wear brand Castelbajac Taiwan plans to open its third store within the next two months.

    The brand also plans 20 more stores over the next five years.

    The company hopes to make Taiwan a springboard into other new markets across the region.

    “The Taiwanese market would serve as the gateway to expand further into the new countries including Hong Kong, Vietnam and China,” an official from the company said.

    In order to enhance its image as an upscale brand, Castelbajac will open stores only within department stores.

    Castelbajac entered Taiwan in March, with the first store at Taipei’s Pacific Sogo Department Store and the second at Hanshin Department Store in Kaohsiung.

  • Luxba Group selected as the new partner for Sergio Rossi

    Luxba Group selected as the new partner for Sergio Rossi

    A new strategic partnership with brand management company Luxba Group will help Sergio Rossi open franchise stores across China.

    Following a full relaunch, the Italian women’s luxury shoe company has also signed an agreement with Hong Kong billionaire entrepreneur Adrian Chen to help achieve growth in China.

    Sergio Rossi last year closed its 10 franchise stores in China it had opened with another distributor. In changing partners, it hopes to make a “solid relaunch” in the country.

    “We chose a partner with the resources, experience and a vision in line with ours to help us go further,” says Sergio Rossi CEO Riccardo Sciutto. “The Luxba Group, with Adrian’s network, makes for such a partnership.”

    Details of the agreement have not been disclosed.

    Cheng, who is also executive director of jewellery manufacturer/retailer Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, six months ago launched C Ventures with the aim of creating a stable of brands and digital platforms specifically aimed at millennials and generation Z, a target market for Sergio Rossi. Already the venture has attracted brands like Disquared2 and Moschino.