Tag: Hong Kong

  • Big guns line up for Hong Kong International Airport duty free tenders as bids close

    Big guns line up for Hong Kong International Airport duty free tenders as bids close

    Many a fortune has been squandered at Hong Kong’s famed Happy Valley race track. But it’s fair to say that picking a winner from the bidding line-up for the two core category tenders at Hong Kong International Airport (HKIA) some 30 minutes away is a far more difficult exercise than most events on the race card.

    The likely bidder line-up for the first two core category tenders at HKIA, which we held off publishing until bids closed. Note: We understand Heinemann bid for liquor/tobacco/gourmet, not beauty & accessories.

    When it views the submitted offers following the bid closure this afternoon, Airport Authority Hong Kong (AAHK) will no doubt issue a sigh of relief at both the depth and quality of the field it has attracted. With the financial difficulties at HKIA of incumbent DFS Group so well-documented, and Hong Kong’s tourism spending woes similarly familiar to potential contenders, the authority had the difficult job of talking up the tender while simultaneously trying not to deter potential bidders with superficial marketing hype.

     

    As previously reported, the liquor & tobacco concession is being increased substantially both in terms of space and range, with the addition of liquor-related accessories and gourmet items

    The perfumes & cosmetics concession will become a “beauty and accessories one-stop shopping destination”, including a minimum of 465sq m dedicated to fashion accessories

    Confectionery, a big in-demand category, will enjoy its own dedicated concession. The tender will be launched in March or April.

    Airport Authority Hong Kong believes that given the airport’s extremely strong line-up of speciality stores and mono-brand boutiques (its dazzling Chanel and Rolex duplex stores are shown left and right), there is no need for the airside general merchandise concession. Instead it has allocated the best-selling general merchandise categories to the other packages.

    It set about that goal in an impressive manner, most notably by restructuring the concessions themselves. Out went Airside General Merchandise, in came gourmet foods (to liquor & tobacco), and in came key accessory categories to the pivotal perfumes & cosmetics concession. As revealed by The Moodie Davitt Report, confectionery, an attractive but specialised category, is being offered as a separate single concession.

    The revamped tender model resulted from extensive dialogue between the Authority and the incumbent, other likely bidders and, most critically, consumers. Given the sheer weight and quality of ‘internal’ airport rivals to the general merchandise concession in the form of HKIA’s splendid line-up of stand-alone boutiques, the decision to scrap the all-embracing general merchandise category (and to move its best bits elsewhere) was highly astute.

    This is how the 2012 bidding line-up looked. Nuance-Watson and World Duty Free Group have since been subsumed into Dufry, which did not bid last time around.

    AAHK also emphasised time and again in the run-up to the tender (and in the documents) its whole-hearted commitment to its partners’ commercial success, via intensive physical and digital marketing, shared participation in promotional efforts and to driving HKIA’s passenger numbers.

    The formula seems to have worked. A star-studded field comprising many of the most powerful players in The Moodie Davitt Report’s acclaimed annual Top 25 Travel Retailers League – increasingly the reference point for investors and airports studying the market’s strength and profile – has emerged. While the beauty and accessories concession has attracted greater interest – not surprising considering its greater certainty – there are still enough powerful contenders for liquor, tobacco and gourmet foods to suggest that the stakes there, too, will be similarly high.

    What of the bidding levels? DFS’s sobering experience may have led to some wariness (certainly for the incumbent itself, though do not by any means count out its chances of retaining the beauty business on which it is bidding) but the prevalent market view is that the LVMH/Robert Miller retailer was unlucky in its last bid rather than over-ambitious.

    After all, when The Moodie Davitt Report announced the retailer’s spectacular June ‘One…two… three’ concession victory back in June 2012 amid surging Chinese travelling and spending levels, who could have possibly contemplated what would have followed? What a list: Xi Jinping’s election in March 2013; his subsequent crackdown on corruption and conspicuous consumption; the sharp decline in Mainland Chinese visitors to Hong Kong in 2015 (driven by anti-Mainlander sentiment and the pro-democracy protests); and the meteoric growth of cross-border e-commerce.

    Any one of those factors would have compromised an initially justifiable bid. Collectively they were enough to critically damage it, especially given the contractual premise of a MAG rising in line with increased passengers (as, for example, happened in 2015 and 2016) but where their actual spending (down) was not factored in. All in all, the perfect storm.

    Despite the chastening effect of such an experience (hardly confined to Hong Kong), the individual and collective ambitions of the bidders still represents a heady cocktail of strategic justification, geographic focus (Asia generally, China particularly), overseas expansion, national pride, ‘face’, category expertise and – dare one say it – sheer need for success. All that suggests AAHK will not have to worry too much about any shortfall in its budget going forward.

    So, with a nod in the direction of the race-card publisher down the road at Happy Valley (let’s call the HKIA racetrack Happy Value), here’s The Moodie Davitt Report’s view of the runners and riders in the great Hong Kong International Airport Duty Free Stakes (Note: several of these observations were made in our initial appraisal of the HKIA tenders back in July 2016. We have updated these where possible while respecting retailer confidentialities. All our comments were deliberately held back until just before the bids closed.)

    Likely contenders for the Hong Kong International Airport (HKIA) contracts

    Sky Connection: A certain bidder on liquor & tobacco, and a serious front-runner. The New World Development Company-owned retailer harboured deep disappointment over losing its long-time liquor & tobacco stronghold to DFS last time around, and is desperately keen to make a comeback. Well, not desperately – it’s a well-run company that insists on making money out of concessions – but you get the point. The company’s recent success in the MTR duty free bid augurs well and you can expect a highly focused, innovative, ambitious but not excessive pitch for the liquor & tobacco contract.

    China Duty Free Group & Lagardère Travel Retail: What a blockbuster this combination, revealed on the day the tender closed by The Moodie Davitt Report, represents.

    Deeply ambitious, and now part of the new Chinese tourism ‘super force’ created by China International Travel Service’s merger into China National Travel Service (HK), state-owned China Duty Free Group (CDFG) has made no secret of its desire to grow internationally. It’s off to a strong start in Cambodia (where it now has operations in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville) but its ambitions extend way beyond that. To use retail terminology, Hong Kong is a natural ‘adjacency’ to the Chinese Mainland operations; and CDFG’s powerful and complementary partnership with French partner Lagardère Travel Retail is a formidable one in anyone’s book.

    CDFG’s stunning success at its Haitang Bay off-airport store on Hainan Island, as well as its expanding Mainland airport portfolio, has underlined its credentials for running such a blue-chip business as HKIA. Funding will not be a problem, especially given the Sino–French JV now in place.

    For its part Lagardère Travel Retail sees Asia as pivotal to growth, and a blue-chip airport concession such as HKIA would provide a massive fillip. In 2011/12 it bid on perfumes & cosmetics and airside general merchandise; this time around it and CDFG are in for both contracts on offer. And they’re serious about both. International acumen, regional knowledge, combined strength: this is a force to be reckoned with alright.

    King Power Group (HK): Managing Director and lead shareholder Antares Cheng has history here. He was part of the former Kiu Fat Investment Corp’s famous, albeit short-lived, contract victory over incumbent DFS at Hong Kong’s old Kai Tak Airport in 1987, the start of a commercial war that is enshrined in industry legend. King Power (no relationship to the Thai company of the same name) still operates half of the duty free business at Macau International Airport, as well as having a strong (and growing) presence at Shanghai Pudong, and it would dearly love to complete a Chinese trio – and a Hong Kong Airport comeback – here. Hong Kong-based Cheng is highly capable, ambitious and well funded. Expect a big play for both concessions.

    Sunrise Duty Free: The privately held Mainland China retailer may be the most low-profile retailer in the industry but it is not shy in terms of growth ambitions. After all, this is the company that could have (and, some say due to its superior financial bid, should have) acquired World Duty Free ahead of eventual winner Dufry.

    The retailer (partly held by Hong Kong-based Boyu Capital and ably led by Madam Fengyi Zhang) wants to diversify its portfolio outside of its Shanghai Pudong, Shanghai Hongqiao and Beijing Capital International airport operations, and no international gateway would appear better suited to it than HKIA. Last time around the company bid in vain for all three core category concessions. Five years on it is stronger, more experienced – and even hungrier.

    Just as critically, through its Boyu shareholder base, it ticks just about all the social and digital media boxes that AAHK now deems vital to the future success of the airport retail business.

    Recently, for example, Sunrise entered into a long-term alliance with Chinese Internet services company Tencent to accelerates its already rapid development as an online to offline (O2O) shopping provider. Besides its Sunrise investment Boyu has holdings in a glittering portfolio of companies in the Consumer and Retail, Financial Services, Healthcare, and Media and Technology worlds – including, get this, Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba; China’s largest private express delivery player, SF Express; and the country’s leading online travel agency, 17u.cn. Boyu has also developed a close partnership with powerful travel booking provider Ctrip.com, listed in Nasdaq and with more than 250 million active members in Asia.

    If it can channel those relationships – and its bid will certainly major on that prospect – Sunrise shapes as an entirely credible candidate to extend its impressive growth story. Expect a very strong proposal on beauty and accessories.

    DFS Group: The incumbent must always be respected, in terms of insight, knowledge and experience. And when it’s such a class act as DFS, you had better throw in quality as well. There’s no doubting the importance that the retailer places on HKIA, one of the two spiritual homes (along with Honolulu International Airport) of DFS Co-Founder Bob Miller; and despite the battering the retailer has taken in recent years here, it is back pitching for the key beauty business, albeit no doubt seeking improved terms.

    The big question is, how prudent can DFS afford to be without losing out to those who may have other motivations to bid much higher, even excessively? That whole weighing up of quality vs financials is set to play a vital role in the ultimate assessment.

    Lotte Duty Free: If you were a fiction writer telling the story of Korean duty free over the past two years, critics would dismiss the plot as implausible. And Lotte is the central character in all the drama.

    It first lost, then won back, its trading licence for the magnificent new Lotte World Tower Duty Free store and now faces the prospect of painful five-yearly (not ten as hoped) licence renewal bids for all its downtown businesses. Throw in a potential dilution of its Incheon International business if Korea Customs Service has its anti-chaebol way and you have the perfect incentive for a company to expand internationally. Fast.

    Because of its heavy concentration of Chinese passengers, few airports would attract the Korean giant more than HKIA. For such a brilliant domestic operator with a frankly superb command of social and digital marketing to not have a bigger international presence is a real blot on the corporate portfolio.

    Can it change things here? Lotte’s challenge, we suspect, is more cultural than commercial – it has to convince international airports that it can do the same job abroad as it does at home. What better place to start than HKIA? Then the domino theory might apply. Expect, therefore, a hugely robust bid for both contracts.

    The Shilla Duty Free: The long-time perception that a Korean travel retailer couldn’t win a major airport duty free contract abroad was laid to rest by Shilla’s January 2014 triumph in the Singapore Changi perfumes & cosmetics tender (followed by a joint-venture victory with Sky Connection at Macau International Airport).

    Life there has hardly been plain sailing since, following a difficult start-up and a series of big quarterly losses for its international businesses – overseas duty free sales increased by +9.9% year-on-year in Q4 2016 to KRW133 billion (US$114.4 million) but losses reached KRW8 billion (US$6.9 million).

    But don’t be misled by those figures. Shilla knew what it was getting into at Changi, which it viewed as a foreign laboratory. The learnings were expensive – but crucial. Like its great rival Lotte, Samsung affiliate Shilla faces mounting and often absurd regulatory and political pressure at home. As the engine room of publicly listed Hotel Shilla, it simply must produce a growth story. In the face of ever-proliferating Korean market competition, escalating tour commission costs and regulatory chaos, it has no choice but to look abroad. Tenders and M&A. The former starts here with P&C and accessories.

    Dufry: Last July we asked whether the industry’s equivalent of a Sumo wrestler would throw its considerable weight at the kind of tender that CEO Julián Díaz historically abhors. “Too much competition, too much likelihood of a ‘strategic overbid’, and too much risk to travel retail’s most robust P&L. And yet, and yet…” we wrote.

    With the highly capable Andrea Belardini now in situ in Hong Kong as Divisional CEO for the key regions of Asia, Middle East and Australia, it was always likely that Dufry would come to the table. Remember that The Nuance Group, which it acquired in 2014, ran the beauty and general merchandise concessions here very successfully for years. Given the super-sized retailer’s disproportionately small presence in Asia we expect a positive play here, probably focused on beauty & accessories only.

    Gebr Heinemann: The family-owned German company is another to have identified Asia Pacific as a key growth target. Last July we doubted that it would bid on Hong Kong given the difficult trading conditions and the stresses of the retailer’s deeply ambitious start-up at Sydney Airport. However the latter, buoyed by a hugely favourable swing in the value of the Aussie Dollar, has got off to a flying start – way beyond just about anybody’s projections. That, along with a desire to build on a small but promising Asian base, has prompted a serious review of this opportunity. And Heinemann does nothing in a half-hearted manner.

     

  • Hong Kong food trucks finally hit the streets

    Hong Kong food trucks finally hit the streets

    The first Hong Kong food trucks have hit the streets – 16 in all will be operational tomorrow.

    Stationed at eight locations, they will offer a range of dishes as diverse as dumplings, dragonfruit smoothies and American-style steamed bread.

    It is the launch of a two-year pilot scheme to diversify the city’s tourism offerings, announced two years ago by former financial secretary John Tsang Chun-wah.

    Among the 16 chosen pioneers is Stanford graduate Angela Huang, an heiress of catering group Chee Kei, a restaurant chain known for its wonton noodles. The 25-year-old left her dream job in the US to return to Hong Kong to run the 5.5-tonne food truck Princess Kitchen.

    Seeing the project as “a good learning opportunity”, she says she feels that the word “princess” has a negative connotation in Hong Kong. “I want to use Princess Kitchen to send a message about what I feel about princess. It is not meant to be a girly and traditional type of princess. People should be able to define their own kind of beauty, happiness and health.”

    Huang learned about the pilot scheme while working as a consultant in San Francisco. “I want to come back for something I am excited about. This is something I really want to do.”

    To learn about running a mobile food business, the heiress started by taking orders in a food truck in San Francisco, and visited different ones in Los Angeles.

    Her food truck, which she painted herself including cartoon portraits of her friends and family, will offer dragonfruit smoothie bowls, which she would make at home and which are rarely available in the city.
    Huang, who says she feels lucky to be part of the pilot scheme, has hired two full-time staff members to help run the venture.

    Incentives

    The government offered incentives to start-ups and micro-enterprises to kickstart the scheme.. In the end, seven of the 16 winners were smaller firms.

    Part-time hawker and small restaurant owner Liu Chun-ho says he has so far spent HK$1 million (US$128,875) on his truck, Mama’s Dumpling. He had to obtain a bank loan and raise money from relatives.

    “I was planning to spend from $600,000 to $700,000 originally, but when I started preparing it realised the actual costs are much higher.”

    Almost $180,000 was spent to fit out the truck in accordance with the government’s safety and hygiene requirements. “It’s stressful to bear a cost that big,” he says. “It scares me when I think about it.”

    Liu has been selling dumplings for almost seven years during traditional celebrations. Four generations of the Liu family have been dedicated to making dumplings, and even his nine-year-old daughter has mastered the skill. Liu says the food truck will be run entirely by relatives.

    His signature dumplings will have wrappers in five colours. He plans to sell a box of six dumplings for $40. Pig knuckles, fried dumplings and soybean milk will also be on offer.

    Not all locals

    Not all the food trucks are local enterprises, such as Los Angeles-based Book Brothers Food Truck.
    “Hong Kong is a much better place to promote the brand compared with mainland cities,” says Raymond Wong, who was assigned by the US firm to manage its first food truck outside the US. The firm, which has seven food trucks and one restaurant in the US, won over the judges last year with its American-style barbecue steamed bun, which integrates Chinese and Western elements.

    Wong says a food truck is a cheaper way to establish brand reputation, given the city’s high running costs. The company has invested about $1 million on the project so far, Wong says, while opening a small cafe could easily cost up to $3 million.

    It needs to pay only about $20,000 a month for the site at Hong Kong Disneyland – the most expensive location – while monthly rents for a restaurant in a prime location could climb to hundreds of thousands of dollars.

    However, the American firm has found Hong Kong’s requirements more stringent, such as using new vehicles plus installing back-up batteries. Wong also says it is not easy to make a profit with only one truck.
    Some arranged locations, such as Energizing Kowloon East harbourfront, have few pedestrians during weekdays, says Wong, which makes things even harder.

  • The Five Best Shops For Men In Hong Kong

    The Five Best Shops For Men In Hong Kong

    Hong Kong is known to be a melting pot of activities, yet there’s one pastime in particular that locals and visitors alike always gravitate toward: shopping. The big malls like Pacific Place and Times Square definitely give shopaholics a run for their money, yet in such a dense megalopolis with so many shops to choose from, sometimes the hidden gems are exactly that – hidden. To help you cut through the noise and find your go-to place, here are Forbes’ choices for the five best shops for men in Hong Kong.

    The Monocle Shop

    Image result for the monocle hong kong

    Through collaboration with other niche brands, Monocle offers one-of-a-kind travel items, apparel and other assorted items in their small shop on Wan Chai’s hip St. Francis Yard. Given that Monocle is a magazine and travel guide first, the shop also sells souvenirs and city-specific memorabilia like their iconic city guides, available for New York City, Hong Kong, Copenhagen and many more. If you’re extra curious, poke your head into the back part of the shop, their Hong Kong editorial team’s office space.

    1-4 St. Francis Yard, Wan Chai, Hong Kong, +852 2804 2323, monocle.com

    The Armoury

    The Armoury - Landmark

    If you’re looking for classic, ready-to-wear menswear, The Armoury is the place to go. The owners’ tastefully-curated collection hails from all around the world, and that global appeal has played a major role in the impeccable reputation that The Armoury holds today. Parisian Gentleman sums up their offering perfectly: “Mark Cho, Alan See and Jake Grantham continue to offer a tastefully curated selection from some of the best brands out there, which include the likes of Ring Jacket, Carmina, St Crispin’s, Orazio Luciano, Drake’s and of course, the Florentine Master Tailor Antonio Liverano featured in the Gianluca Migliarotti movie, I Colori di Antonio.”

    Pedder Building Unit 307 (3/F), 12 Pedder Street, Central, +852 2804 6991, www.thearmoury.com

    Landmark Central B47, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, +852 2810 4990, www.thearmoury.com

    Delstore

    Image result for delstore hong kong hong kong

    Considered underrated by many, Delstore stocks difficult-to-find pieces from timeless brands, and is definitely a must-visit for any guy passing through Hong Kong. South China Morning Post says: “Owned by Hong Kong native Derrick Leung, the two-storey boutique offers stylish yet inconspicuous men’s outfits and accessories that have way more staying power than those slavishly following seasonal trends. A true champion of locally curated style, Delstore is a hidden treasure for Hong Kong’s male style mavens.”

    3 Schooner St, Wan Chai, +852 2528 1770, delstore.co

    HOLA Classic

    Image result for hola classic hong kong

    For a high-quality yet budget-friendly tailoring, HOLA Classic is the place to go. Thanks to its location in Causeway Bay’s underbelly, So Kon Po, HOLA can offer its modern vintage suits at significantly lower prices than other tailors in Hong Kong (theirs start at $1,980 HKD, which is $255 USD). HOLA also offers quite a selection of eccentric ties and “happy” socks, plus their own line of shoes.

    11A Caroline Hill Road, Causeway Bay, +852 2870 0245, facebook.com/holaclassic.

    kapok

    Certainly one of the quirkiest lifestyle shops in Hong Kong, kapok specializes in creative and authentic pieces from places like Denmark and France, widely known for the enduring quality of their craftsmanship. With one store next to the Monocle shop on St. Francis Yard and the other around the corner on the tucked-away Sun Street, expect to find a wide array of sweaters, messenger bags, tough-to-find magazines, notebooks, and a lot more. Expect to while away thirty or sixty minutes just browsing, chatting with the knowledgeable staff or jamming to the ever-changing Soundcloud mixes that fill the place with an upbeat, enduring energy.

    3 Sun Street, Wan Chai, +852 2520 0114, ka-pok.com

    5 St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, +852 2520 0114, ka-pok.com

    Of course, if you can’t find what you need at these shops, you can always look online to sites like AliExpress, which stocks a seemingly-endless variety of clothing, shoes and accessories. Amazon also ships to Hong Kong, though for some items you may need to use a package forwarder to get them all the way here.

    As Andrew Keith says, “Hong Kong is a city filled with amazing contradictions.” Fortunately, its size and its offering of great shops for men is not one of them. Wherever you choose to go, whether it’s a megamall, a boutique or just online, I hope these five shops open up your eyes to some of Hong Kong’s more unique options.

  • Vietjet Air Appoints HACTL for Hong Kong Handling

    Vietjet Air Appoints HACTL for Hong Kong Handling

    The daily flight was launched in December 2016 and is operated with an Airbus A320. “We congratulate VietJet on the launch of this exciting new service to Ho Chi Minh, which provides access to an important destination for our customers,” said Mark Whitehead, chief executive of Hactl.

    Major exports from Vietnam to Hong Kong include electronic components, telecommunications equipment and footwear, while imports from Hong Kong include telecommunications equipment, meat products and electronic components.

    “Hong Kong is a very important market for Vietnam, and also a key step in our airline’s development,” said Thi Thuy Binh Nguyen, vice president of VietJet Air. “We look forward to playing our part in facilitating increased trade on this route.”

    VietJet Air launched operations in 2011. The low-cost carrier now flies to 23 international and 37 domestic destinations with its fleet of 42 A320s and A321s.

  • Wellcome supermarket criticised for failing to provide seats for on-duty cashiers

    Wellcome supermarket criticised for failing to provide seats for on-duty cashiers

    The Wellcome supermarket chain has come under fire for failing to protect workers’ health as it emerged that they do not provide chairs for on-duty cashiers.

    The Retail, Commerce and Clothing Industries General Union said Thursday that none of the 154 Wellcome branches it surveyed provided seats to cashiers during working hours. It slammed the company for disregarding the wellbeing of its workers. Prolonged standing carries health risks such as muscle ache, back pain and swollen veins, it said.

    In response, Wellcome said that it is conducting a pilot test to introduce chairs for cashiers at four branches: Beacon Hill, Johnston Road in Wanchai, San Fung Avenue in Sheung Shui, and Avon Park in Fanling.

    It promised to gradually provide chairs to cashiers at all 281 Wellcome branches in the city.

    According to an occupational health guide issued by the Labour Department, retail employers are advised to ensure the safety and health of their workers by providing seats at their workplaces.

    Employers should ensure that employees are allowed to be seated “unless operational needs warrant otherwise,” the guide said.

    labour department guide retail

    The Labour Department’s guide on preventing health hazards for retail workers. Photo: Labour Department screenshot.

    But the union said the guide, which is not legally binding, is not enough to protect workers’ rights. It urged the Labour Department to include leg fatigue in its list of compensable occupational diseases and enforce the Occupational Safety and Health Ordinance against employers who violate the law.

    It also demanded that Dairy Farm International, which operates the Wellcome chain, review policies in all of its retail stores to ensure the safety of their workers.

    Activist Ching Chin-wai, who helped lead the campaign, said that Wellcome failed to respond to public enquiries about the progress and details of its pilot test. He slammed the supermarket chain for “disrespecting” its employees and avoiding public accountability. Ching previously led similar campaigns for other occupations such as security guards.

    The retail union is a member of the Hong Kong Confederation of Trade Unions.

     

  • Watches stolen during sledge hammer raid on luxury shop in Hong Kong

    Watches stolen during sledge hammer raid on luxury shop in Hong Kong

    Two burglars smashed the window of a luxury goods shop in the IFC mall in Central and fled with 40 watches in front of a security guard during a Lunar New Year’s Day raid.

    In a drama that lasted for barely two minutes, one of the pair broke open the glass door of Montblanc with a sledgehammer at about 11.40pm on Saturday, when the shop had been closed for the whole day.

    The duo, said to be non-Chinese and wearing surgical masks and knitted caps, defied the guard and smashed three glass showcases inside, sweeping the watches into a bag and ran.

    At one point, they attempted to intimidate the guard by threatening him with the sledgehammer.

    At a taxi stand outside, the pair got into a car driven by a third man and sped off.

    Police said the Germany-based chain, which specialises in several lines of products including watches, writing instruments and jewellery, had confirmed that about 40 watches valued at a total of HK$1 million were snatched.

    Central district crime squad was investigating

    A sledgehammer has been used in previous burglaries in the city. In September, a group of five or more burglars stole about HK$2 million worth of handbags and watches from the Chanel store at Lee Garden One on Hysan Avenue – one of Hong Kong’s prime retail strips in Causeway Bay, in just 80 seconds.

  • Amusing concept in newest Gentle Monster flagship

    Amusing concept in newest Gentle Monster flagship

    Korean eyewear retailer Gentle Monster is creating jaw-dropping retail executions across Asia and beyond.

    The images accompanying this story are of the equally unique Beijing flagship store, located in the Sanlitun retail precinct.

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-9

    Each Gentle Monster flagship features a completely different design format, inspiration and execution – it is the utmost opposite to traditional retail chains’ cookie-cutter store design approach as is possible.

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-10

    “I wanted the products to look as if they were being exhibited,” explains Hankook Kim, founder and CEO of Gentle Monster. And so the in-store concepts have become something of a calling card for the brand.

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-7

     

    As Australian retail consultant Brian Walker observes in a column on disruptive retailing, every retail store in their ecosystem is completely different; from ‘Platform’ in Hong Kong; designed like a train carriage, to ‘L’Artisan’ in Shanghai and ‘Secret Apartment’ in Beijing.

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-5

    “Each store is a three-dimensional still life, with its own back-themed story.”

    Gentle Monster was founded in 2012 after a chance meeting between Kim and Korean serial entrepreneur Jae W Oh at an English summer camp in Seoul a year earlier. Oh took a liking to Kim and invited him to come up with a concept worthy of his cash.

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-3

     

    “When I first began looking into eyewear and researching the market, I found that it was a very union-controlled industry that was not explored as an artistic form,” Kim said in a recent interview with The Business of Fashion.

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-6

    And so a brand was born. Kim identified an opportunity to create oversize spectacles for Asian consumers, for whom having a small face is a compliment. “There were no competitors for oversize glasses, which make heads look smaller.” Asians also require eyewear with a low bridge. “Eyewear was all about the Western facial structure.”

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-4

    He found a factory in Daegu abandoned by Luxottica who shifted production to China, and another plant in China where he could produce acetate frames (illegal to manufacture in Korea).

    Gentle Monster’s rise has been swift. In 2014 the brand achieved revenues of US$40 million, predominantly in Korea and China. That figure grew four-fold to $160 million the following year, with figures for 2016 not yet revealed.

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-2

    The brand’s frames range in price from a little over $200 for an entry-level pair, to $500+ for something more exotic. Like its stores, its frame designs are often unusual – or even “strange” as The Business of Fashion observed.

    gentle-monster-beijing-flagship-1

    Flush with success of its eyewear range, Gentle Monster is now deciding which other categories to expand into.

    “Gentle Monster started out as an optical company, but the goal is to make it a creatively disruptive corporation,” says Kim. “Brand really is the genuine tool.”

  • Hong Kong developer takes aim at Trump rhetoric

    Hong Kong developer takes aim at Trump rhetoric

    Hong Kong property tycoon Ronnie Chan Chi-chung came to China’s defense on Thursday, saying U.S. President Donald Trump would eventually become realistic and “shut up,” amid concerns over a looming Sino-U.S. trade war.

    “China is not the same as before. If the U.S. can create troubles for China, it can do the same to the U.S.,” said Chan, chairman of Hang Lung Properties, referring to Trump’s plans to slap punitive tariffs on Chinese imports. “Don’t bother too much about a dog barking.”

    Chan’s remarks came as Hang Lung, one of the first Hong Kong developers to announce annual results, saw its Chinese business outstripped by a stronger Hong Kong market.

    The group reported a full-year net profit of 6.2 billion Hong Kong dollars ($800 million) in 2016, up 22% from a year ago. Underlying profit that excludes the impact of property revaluation jumped 45% on the year to reach HK$6.3 billion.

    Turnover was up 46% to HK$13.1 billion, driven by higher property sales in Hong Kong that grew more than four-fold to HK$5.3 billion. The developer increased sales after a rebound in home prices last April amid an influx of mainland capital, selling some 430 units, including two semi-detached houses in Happy Valley and the upscale Long Beach project.

    Rental revenue was flat. In Hong Kong, the group countered a downtrend in the retail sector with a 5% increase in rental income following mall upgrades to bring in popular sportswear tenants.

    A sluggish economy and retail environment hurt income on the mainland. Rental income from the company’s portfolio of prime offices and eight shopping malls in cities such as Shanghai, Shenyang and Tianjin fell 5% on the year to HK$4 billion. The group blamed renovations that affected occupancy, adding it would continue to develop projects on acquired sites in cities including Wuhan, Wuxi and Kunming.

    “We have 24 million square feet of buildable space in China — it’s a lot of work to follow up on,” said Executive Director Adriel Chan Wenbwo, Chan’s son, who was promoted to the position in November. Asked how he felt about chairing his first earnings briefing, he said: “It’s okay.” He described Managing Director Philip Chen Nan-lok as a “role model.”

    Mainland competition

    Hong Kong developers are facing intense competition as their mainland counterparts accelerate their shopping spree in the territory. On Wednesday, Chinese tourism conglomerate HNA Group outbid 18 developers for its third residential site in Kai Tak, bringing its total investment in the former airport site to HK$20 billion in three months. The latest deal, totaling HK$5.5 billion, is equivalent to HK$13,000 per square foot, about 10% above market valuations.

    Data from the Lands Department showed that Chinese developers splashed out HK$28.1 billion to buy land for building homes in Hong Kong last year, accounting for 41% of the territory’s residential land sales.

    Beijing’s recent capital controls may do little to reverse this trend. Patrick Wong, a property analyst at Bloomberg Intelligence, expects mainland developers to maintain a similar share of land sales in 2017, as active companies are listed in Hong Kong with funding channels abroad. “Despite the cooling measures in Hong Kong, regulatory risks here are mild relative to that on the mainland,” he said, referring to restrictions imposed on homebuyers in more than 20 major Chinese cities.

    Hong Kong developers will face a “tough time” in the land market, Wong said, although they are less aggressive in placing bids due to abundant land reserves. Local developer Hopewell stressed its priority was for existing projects rather than land acquisition. “It’s not very meaningful to look at a particular deal that has deviated from the market,” said Hopewell Managing Director Thomas Wu Man-sun on Tuesday.

    Hang Lung’s elder Chan has a similar view. “It’s a market of short-term irrationality and long-term rationality,” he said, adding that it was a “natural development” for Chinese companies to diversify their investments abroad.

    After a year of aggressive property sales, Hang Lung was left with about 100 units on its inventory list, including 16 luxury houses. Asked whether the group would replenish its land bank, he said: “When ‘black swan’ events such as the 1997 Asian financial crisis happen, that’s our chance to buy land.”

  • Hong Kong high street retail rents decline should ease

    Hong Kong high street retail rents decline should ease

    After falling 12 per cent in 2016, the pace of decline in Hong Kong high street retail rents should ease in the year ahead, predicts CBRE.

    Last year’s decline followed a 17 per cent fall in 2015. That represents a full 27 per cent fall since rents were at their peak in 2014.

    But this year, says CBRE Hong Kong in a research note, expect a fall of a more modest 5 per cent.

    In contrast, shopping centre rents were broadly flat in 2016.

    “In 2017, slower economic growth in China and depreciation of the Renminbi are set to undermine mainland tourist spending in Hong Kong,” said Joe Lin, executive director, advisory & transaction services – retail, with CBRE Hong Kong. “However, the fall in high street shop rents is not expected to exceed 5 per cent in 2017, and by the middle of the year, most leases that were signed during the market peak of 2014 will have expired, meaning that rents are expected to stabilise from then on. Leasing momentum is expected to gradually improve from 2016,” Lin concluded.

    In investment terms, CBRE predicts a 5 to 10 per cent decline in prices for street shops in core locations in 2017, coming off a 10.6 per cent decline last year.

  • HSBC closes 62 more UK branches, but all Hong Kong outlets to stay open

    HSBC closes 62 more UK branches, but all Hong Kong outlets to stay open

    HSBC is shutting 62 more British branches this year, meaning the bank will have closed 340 outlets across the country within the past two years.

    But in a divergence of strategies between two of its most significant retail banking markets, the bank said it had no such plans in Hong Kong.

    “While individual branches relocate from time-to-time, there is no programme of closures in Hong Kong,” insisted HSBC spokesperson Gareth Hewett.

    The bank has about 100 branches and more than 300 standalone express bank centres in Hong Kong. It blamed the UK closures on the changing habits of its customers, adding HSBC will still have 625 branches in the country by 2018.

    “More customers are using mobile and internet banking than ever before … and fewer people are using branches. More than 90 per cent of our interactions with customers are now through our digital channels – an increase from 80 per cent last year,” said Francesca McDonagh, HSBC’s head of retail banking and wealth management for UK and Europe.

    Last year HSBC halved its branch network in India, again citing the move to digital as an important factor in the decision.

    While the lender is pursuing a digital strategy in Hong Kong, which includes digital peer-to-peer payments systems and virtual assistants for its corporate clients, these new initiatives have not led to a need to reduce its branch network here.

    More customers are using mobile and internet banking than ever before … and fewer people are using branches. More than 90 per cent of our interactions with customers are now through our digital channels – an increase from 80 per cent last year

    Francesca McDonagh, HSBC’s head of retail banking and wealth management, UK and Europe

    Across the board, branch networks in Hong Kong have remained broadly solid, though last June Bank of East Asia said that its brokerage business, East Asia Securities, would close its 22 retail outlets.

    As has become standard practise, BEA too noted the vast the majority of its transactions were now being conducted via the internet or over the phone.

    The new closures mean HSBC has shut more branches than any other major UK high street lender, but the closures are by no means unique.

    Last week, the Yorkshire and Clydesdale bank group said that it would close 79 UK branches, and, in 2015 and 2016, more than 1,000 banks were closed across Britain according to consumer group Which?

    Dominic Hook, national officer at UK’s largest trade union Unite said in a statement: “Unite is again calling on the banking industry to rethink such branch culling exercises, which do nothing to reassure customers or staff that banking is accessible and open to all.

    “Without doubt customer service in financial services will suffer if our high streets are left with no local branches.”

  • Activewear and F&B driving Hong Kong retail innovation

    Activewear and F&B driving Hong Kong retail innovation

    Food and beverage and lifestyle is driving Hong Kong retail innovation, says property expert Shaun McManus with JLL Hong Kong.

    “The activewear and sports apparel sector has been a front-runner in elevating in-store experiences for shoppers,” McManus, who specialises in lifestyle retail and F&B with the property  company. “Looking to boost their winter sales, Adidas recently added a virtual reality fitting room in their flagship store in Causeway Bay, giving customers the chance to test new products in a training run simulation that mimics winter weather through a temperature control system,” he wrote in a market review.

    Nike’s new 13,000 sqft flagship store on Granville Road in Tsim Sha Tsui offers customised T-shirts and sports bras, as well as a personalised coaching section where customers can test running shoes on a treadmill to see if they are the right fit.

    JLL’s foodservice consulting team forecasts that by 2020, 80 per cent of retailers will have some form of additional entertainment element or other unique offerings, like these within their stores.

    “The progression of omni-channel retailing – through physical and online stores and mobile apps – is another pattern that looks likely to emerge in 2017. Unlike other markets, eCommerce has yet to gain a strong foothold in Hong Kong.

    According to the Hong Kong Trade and Development Council, online sales account for less than 5 per cent of total retail sales among retailers with an omni-channel sales platform within the city.

    “To boost sales, retailers are increasingly turning to social media platforms to sell their goods, and will look to take advantage of apps like Instagram and Snapchat to give customers a behind-the-scenes look at their operations with the aim of building brand engagement and legions of loyal followers,” says McManus.

    “With over 40 million hits per month on Instagram, Facebook and Snapchat combined; it is no wonder popular brands such as watchmaker Daniel Wellington are attributing the largest proportion of their revenue to their social media marketing campaigns.”

    McManus also forecasts that this year promises a further shift away from traditional shopping mall tenant mixes towards an increased focus on entertainment hubs and food courts.

    “Many developers are already starting to reposition their portfolios. Swire Properties – whose shopping mall portfolio in Hong Kong includes Pacific Place Mall, CityPlaza and Citygate Outlets – has been at the forefront of this movement. At Pacific Place Mall, for example, it has increased the F&B footprint by more than 20 per cent in the space of 12 months and totally revamped its cinema complex to include a new VIP House with state-of-the-art sound system technology, higher resolution screens and vibrating seats. These changes have all been made with the aim of increasing and retaining footfall to the mall and attracting new customers.

    “The use of pop-up stores will also continue to be popular in prime malls, enabling landlords to optimise space and minimise void periods; an important consideration given the current challenges facing the city’s retail sector.”

    McManus says that for consumers, revolving pop-up stores freshen the shopping experience and encourage repeat visits.

    “All of the above factors point towards a more balanced and increasingly vibrant retail market for Hong Kong in 2017, and suggests that it is far from all doom and gloom for the sector in the year ahead. Rather, we believe these changes are ushering in a healthier retail climate that drives domestic consumption and is less reliant on tourist spend. Hong Kong must, and will, maintain its status as a shopper’s paradise in Asia for the foreseeable future.”

  • BNI prepares Indonesia-Hong Kong worker card

    BNI prepares Indonesia-Hong Kong worker card

    State-owned PT Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI) will be launching Indonesia-Hong Kong Worker Card (KPIH), a multi-function card for Indonesian employees in Hong Kong.

    The Bank had previously launched Indonesia-Singapore Worker Card (KPIS) in November 2016.

    The dissemination and soft launching event of the card was carried out in the presence of 500 Indonesian migrant workers in the Banks Hong Kong branch on Jan 22, and was attended by BNIs Vice President Suprajarto.

    “There are savings acquisition potentials, which reached 25 thousand Indonesian migrant workers in Hong Kong. This card has many functions. Apart from being a debit card, it can also act as a Worker Identity Card,” Suprajarto said in an official statement received by Antara here on Monday.

    The cards functions include Internet/Mobile/SMS banking facilities that ease transaction processes, access to the Banks programs information and remittance and/or bill settlement to Indonesia through BNIs Hong Kong branch or ATM machines.

    The card can also be used as a shopping card in stores with a MasterCard logo in their EDC s.

    Card holders also get a chance to join an entrepreneurship training program called “KAMI bersama BNI” (We are with BNI), as well get home credit facilities for new residential purchases or renovations through BNIs Hong Kong branch.

    As an appreciation to the Banks consumers, BNI is having a remittance fee discount program for money wiring services through the Hong Kong branch, in which transfer costs are being exempted for transactions among BNI accounts, he continued.

    Customers can also move their savings balance into a deposit account once the amount is considerably high, and they can also propose for the Worker Retirement account and auto-debit system for health and work insurances.

    For migrant workers who wish to start their own business in Indonesia, BNI also offers financial support through their Peoples Business Credit (KUR) program.

    They can simply contact the Banks small credit centers across Indonesia to submit their proposal.

    One of the programs selling points lies in its low interest rate, which is noted to be at 9 percent annually as per 2016.

    Until the end of 2016, BNI had given out credits to 386 migrant workers in Hong Kong through seven credit centers, with the loan reaching Rp5.3 billion.

    The loan is also being disposed to migrant workers who had been employed in Singapore, Japan and Taiwan.

    As of December 2016, there are 2,463 debtors, with the total amount reaching Rp38.9 billion.

  • Wahlburgers to open 100 restaurants in Asia

    Wahlburgers to open 100 restaurants in Asia

    Wahlburgers – the burger restaurant brand founded by chef Paul Wahlberg and celebrity brothers Mark and Donnie – is to launch in Asia.

    Through a joint venture with Hong Kong-headquartered Cachet Hospitality Group (CHG), Wahlburgers will open in Hong Kong, Mainland China and Thailand this year.

    CHG has signed agreements with World Packaging Center to open the first restaurant in Hangzhou and with Shanghai-based Naked Hub, which will open 20 Wahlburgers in their office complexes in Hong Kong and the mainland, the first two in Wuhan, and Shanghai. Thailand’s Big Ho Corporation will open 20 Wahlburgers inside Big C Supercenter stores throughout northern Thailand.

    Actor Mark, musician Donnie and chef Paul hosted a launch party in Hollywood overnight to commemorate the venture.

    “We’re excited about this wonderful opportunity to grow in Asia,” said Wahlburgers CEO Rick Vanzura.

    “Having a savvy, financially strong partner is essential and we have a great partner in the Cachet Hospitality Group, which will bring an unprecedented level of service and strength to the Wahlburgers brand. Cachet is dedicated to family, community and, of course, bringing diverse groups of people together through great food – the very same values that drive Wahlburgers.

    “Thanks to Cachet, we already have our first confirmed restaurant projects outside of North America, and we look forward to making history together,” said Vanzura.

    CHG CEO Alexander Mirza said the timing of Wahlburgers’ Asian debut was perfect. “There is dramatic growth in US-style destination malls with increasing space committed to restaurants as mall owners see both traffic and income rise dramatically.

    “This combines perfectly with the explosive popularity of international restaurant brands in China’s malls and airports, opening the door to tremendous opportunity for Wahlburgers and our Asia Pacific joint venture,” said Mirza.

    The joint venture plans to open 100 restaurants in China and the surrounding region over the next five years.

    “With two strategic partnerships in place, Wahlburgers Asia Pacific is in a strong position to achieve its goal of opening in a variety of locations, including shopping centers, theme parks, residential and office developments and hotel and resort properties,” the partners said in a statement.

    Wahlburgers made its debut in October 2011 in Hingham, Massachusetts. The subject of an A&E reality show, Wahlburgers offers a fun, casual music-filled atmosphere where guests, like family, share great food, a few laughs and lots of love. While its walls celebrate the story through photos and words of the Wahlberg brothers’ life journeys from Dorchester, Mass. neighborhood kids to rising chef and international superstars, it’s the food at Wahlburgers that takes center stage.

    Crafted by chef Paul and served with heartfelt hospitality, the chef-inspired menu features a variety of fresh burgers, housemade condiments, crispy haddock, seared chicken and vegetarian options. Other signature items include Mom’s Sloppy Joe, thin crispy onion rings, tater tots and thick creamy frappes and floats. Gluten free options are available.

    Wahlburgers’ full-service bar offers adult frappes, cocktails, wines and beers including the signature Wahlbrewski – a Harpoon Brewery custom, unfiltered Pale Ale.

  • New law to stop minors in Hong Kong buying alcohol from shops

    New law to stop minors in Hong Kong buying alcohol from shops

    Convenience stores and shops across Hong Kong will be banned from selling alcohol to minors under new legislation to be proposed by the government this year as it steps up efforts to tackle a rise in underage drinking.

    The law, if passed by the Legislative Council, will prohibit retailers from selling liquor to anyone under the age of 18 – the same as the current restriction on the sale of tobacco.

    Although the city’s bars and clubs are already banned from serving or selling alcoholic drinks to minors, retailers do not have to follow the rule. Leading retail chains such as 7-Eleven have agreed ­voluntarily to refuse to sell liquor to anyone below 18, but staff seldom bother to check the age of customers. This is a problem that has been confirmed by various studies and demonstrated in a test conducted.

    The new move by the Food and Health Bureau comes amid criticism that Hong Kong is slipping behind other developed cities in its handling of underage drinking, and that it remains easy for teenagers to enjoy a tipsy night.

    “The proposed statutory regulatory regime will cover all forms of commercial sale and supply of alcohol, including internet sale … and from the vending machine,” a spokeswoman for the bureau said, confirming the plan to table the legislation this year.

    Sellers will also have to display signs stating that no alcohol may be sold or supplied to anyone aged below 18.

    A government poll in 2014 found that 56.2 per cent of the city’s students had tried alcohol, with 21.9 per cent of those aged 10 or below saying they had done so.

    Last year the Centre for Health Protection found that 43.1 per cent of 1,630 people polled had taken their first sip of alcohol before the age of 18. It also showed a worrying rise in binge drinking among students.

    The Medical ­Association, the city’s largest doctors’ group, said 77 per cent of the 1,003 people it polled supported banning the sale of alcohol to those below 18.

    Allan Zeman, ­chairman of the Lan Kwai Fong Group, supported the move, saying anti-social behaviour among the young at nightspots might damage Hong Kong’s image abroad.

    “Some of the retail chains are very powerful here. I think we should look at what other cities in the world have done and get tough about this,” Zeman said.

    A 7-Eleven spokesman said the chain supported legislation banning the sale of alcohol to those aged below 18.

    The Hong Kong General Chamber of Wine & Spirits has previously said it supports an age limit on the sale of alcohol, but it should be set at 16.

  • Burberry China sales recover

    Burberry China sales recover

    Burberry says sales in its core China market have improved in the latest quarter, ending a long run of declines.

    And while Hong Kong stores posted yet another like-for-like drop due to weaker footfall, the decline is now in the low single digits.

    Globally, Burberry achieved a 4 per cent increase in wholesale and retail sales for the three months to December 31, totalling US$1.19 billion. This was largely underpinned by an “exceptional” 40 per cent increase in same-store sales in its UK home market.  UK media report the boom was down to Chinese tourists taking advantage of the cheaper pound in high street flagship stores in London, where staff estimate some 70 per cent of customers are from China.

    Globally, retail revenue rose 22 per cent to £735 million.

    The luxury fashion brand singled out Burberry China and Hong Kong sales, reporting Asia-Pacific had returned to growth during the quarter, hitting low single-digit percentages, driven by acceleration in Mainland China and improvement in Hong Kong.

    American trade experienced a low single-digit percentage sales decline, similar to sales trends in the first half, although the company reported an increase in American customer spending globally.

    “With a record number of views of our festive film and strong demand for new products in our collections, this third quarter improvement reflects early progress from our plans to drive Burberry’s performance for the long term,” said Burberry CEO Christopher Bailey.

    Verdict Retail analyst Charlotte Pearce said that although the company’s results have been chequered in recent times, its strong performance is a sign the changes the company is making are working.

    “Burberry’s double digit growth in EMEIA is most notable in Q3, with the retailer reporting continued strong trading in the UK, thanks to the weak pound which has encouraged tourism spending.

    Meanwhile, the innovation and newness of its products aided strong performances in bags, accessories and apparel, with items such as rucksacks and buckle totes standing out,” she said.

    “The brand continues to focus on its presence in the digital space through growing its online business, where mobile has been the driver due to improved payment methods, as well as developing an app, which is currently in its testing phase, in order to build Burberry’s connection with customers.”

    Pearce said the Asian results bode well for Burberry’s recovery.

    “Historically, sales in Asia Pacific have been a source of strength for the renowned British brand, accounting for 38 per cent of retail and wholesale revenue in 2015/16, so the brand should look to identify new markets within the region which indicate fast growing affluence and urbanisation.”