Category: Fashion

Retail News Asia is committed to providing both local and global retailers with the latest Fashion news throughout the Asian market. This on a daily base.

  • Report: Chinese Shoppers Make 40 Percent of Luxury Purchases Abroad

    Report: Chinese Shoppers Make 40 Percent of Luxury Purchases Abroad

    Chinese travelers are spending billions of dollars abroad, but where exactly are they making their luxury goods purchases? A recent report titled “Who Buys Where: Decrypting Cross-Border Luxury Demand Flows” by digital direct marketing services provider ContactLab and Exane BNP Paribas Research maps out spending patterns by tourists from all over the globe based on three years of data. ContactLab’s research ranks Chinese travelers second in terms of the proportion of spenders who buy luxury goods abroad, finding that 40 percent of Chinese consumers’ luxury spending occurred overseas in the first part of this year.

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    While Chinese consumers spend most of their budget on luxury items abroad, this year, overseas spending dropped 5 percent, but rose 5 percent domestically. ContactLab attributes this to price corrections by major luxury brands on the mainland. For example, last year, Chanel lowered its mainland China prices to encourage Chinese shoppers to purchase there, and deter daigou sellers from benefiting from purchasing cheaper goods abroad.

    How much Chinese spend abroad may provide some insight into exactly who these consumers are. The value of purchases Chinese travelers make in “European Heritage” countries, the United States, and Japan is significantly lower than it is in China—by 20 to 30 percent. ContactLab says this suggests big spenders in these countries are “aspirational first-time buyers.”

    However, despite individual purchases being lower overall, Chinese luxury spending in Europe “appeared to be rising” in the first four months of 2016 compared to the same period two years before, according to the report. This was the case even factoring in the Paris terrorist attacks in late 2015. The increase takes place “possibly because our data includes also a portion of daigou spend (eg Chinese students in Europe whose visas don’t allow tax free refunds, and which are therefore not captured by Global Blue statistics),” said ContactLab senior advisor Marco Pozzi. “If this is what we see in the wake of the November terrorist attacks, then 2H16 could reasonably expected to be even more positive.” It’s still worth noting that since the release of the report last month, there have been further attacks in Europe and numerous luxury brands have reported that they are feeling the repercussions of waning Chinese tourists in light of security concerns.

    In Asia, Chinese tourist luxury spending has also gone up in the last few years in Japan and Korea. In Japan’s case, Chinese travelers make up the majority of the luxury purchases, even though inbound tourists only make up about 5 to 15 percent of sales in the country overall.

    The report also confirms known trends in Hong Kong and Macau’s luxury retail industry. This year, Chinese consumers have done almost the same amount of luxury shopping in Japan, Taiwan, Singapore, and Korea combined as they have done in Hong Kong and Macau. Chinese tourists went from spending 70 percent of their luxury goods budget in Hong Kong in the first four months of 2014 to spending 35 percent in the same period this year. Hong Kong’s luxury retail industry has been struggling with the absence of Chinese tourists and developers are being forced to find alternatives to high-end stores to attract shoppers. This month was the first in over a year where Hong Kong finally experienced a rebound in tourists from the mainland.

  • Hour Glass Q1 net profit falls amid tough retail environment, slower economy

    Hour Glass Q1 net profit falls amid tough retail environment, slower economy

    The Hour Glass’ first-quarter net profit tumbled 22 per cent year on year to S$8.19 million.

    For the three months ended June 30, total revenue and other income fell 7 per cent to S$149.43 million from the previous year. The decline in revenue reflected the economic slowdown and tougher regional competition, it said.

    Q1 earnings per share slid to 1.16 Singapore cents from 1.49 Singapore cents in the preceding year.

    For the quarter, gross margin edged up to 22.9 per cent from 22.8 per cent a year ago.

    Meanwhile, rental costs were higher due to the expanded retail network.

    The Hour Glass said: “The continuing global economic uncertainty is expected to affect consumer sentiment and the demand for watches and luxury goods. Barring any unforeseen circumstances, the group expects to remain profitable for the financial year.”

  • GSS most attractive to travellers from Japan, China

    GSS most attractive to travellers from Japan, China

    Japan and China holds the potential to be the strongest source market for Singapore during the Great Singapore Sale (GSS) period, which comes to a close this weekend, according to findings by market research consultancy Kadence Singapore.

    Respondents from Japan and China indicated they were “highly likely” to fly to Singapore during the period. The two markets also showed greatest awareness, with 85 per cent and 84 per cent of people, respectively, indicating their knowledge of the retail event.

    Explaining the findings, Patrick Young, Kadence Singapore’s insight director said that the Japanese are more avid travellers in general. The fact that many airlines ply between Japan and Singapore also contributed to the result.

    Additionally, the price of airfares may also be factored in seeing as travellers for the GSS are likely to be deal-savvy individuals. This means the availability of low-cost flights could also affect traveller decision making processes.

    The appointment of UnionPay as the official card for this year’s GSS shows that the Singapore Retailers Association, organisers of the event, are stepping up efforts to lure more Chinese shoppers to the city-state as well.

    However, the retail scene in Singapore has been sluggish, with year-on-year retail sales figures for June, the month when the GSS usually begins, being on the decline over the past two years, according to Singapore’s Department of Statistics.

    Retail business outlook is also dim. While the July-December period is expected to see an improvement of 7 per cent over the April-September period in terms of net weighted balance, the July-December period is predicted to see a sector performance of negative 8 per cent compared to the same time last year.

    Young suggests taking into account “certain nuances between the countries” so that brands taking part in the GSS can better cater to individual markets and thus boost their allure.

    “For the Japanese there is a big focus on omiyage, which is a culture of taking home a souvenir for friends and family. So how much is the GSS tailored to these small but significant items that the Japanese will buy?”

    “It’s not so much tying in with UnionPay or a similar brand, it’s more about having in your portfolio products which can relate to that market,” he added.

    Young also cited the upcoming Singapore Grand Prix as a good example of how an event is able to better lure visitors by going beyond its core demographic.

    The annual racing event attracts not just sporting fans but a large number of international visitors by staging concerts, parties and family activities. The GSS could do something similar to lure arrivals beyond shoppers alone.

    “What else can we do to broaden the GSS beyond sales?” he said.

    GSS 2016 runs for 10 weeks from June 3 to August 14 this year, the longest sale period for the annual event to date.

  • Toms and another global brands for Myntra

    Toms and another global brands for Myntra

    Flipkart-owned Indian online fashion company Myntra has added two international brands to its platform, Toms and Meters/Bonwe.

    This makes Myntra home to more than 30 global brands, says its head of international brands business, Gunjan Soni.

    US-based Toms is known for its footwear range while Chinese brand Meters/Bonwe focuses on fashion-forward styles for young men and women.

    “Our partnership with Myntra will allow us to cater to the dynamic fashion choices of millennials in India who want to dress well with an individual style without the hassles of store shopping,” says Meters/Bonwe spokesperson Jay Zhou.

    Toms MD Helen Thompson says Myntra will help the brand start its commercial relationship in India. “We have already been working to produce locally as well as give shoes and restore sight through Toms’ partnerships.”

    Online retail, which is being increasingly adopted by Indian shoppers, is expected to account for 3 per cent of total retail sales by 2020, according to a PWC report.

  • Hugo Boss China plans to cull more stores

    Hugo Boss China plans to cull more stores

    The cull of Hugo Boss China stores will continue after a first round downsizing helped the German retailer’s bottom line.

    Hugo Boss revealed its quarterly operating profit on Friday, beating forecasts and giving incoming CEO Mark Langer a mandate for his tough strategy to return to profit growth.

    In March the company said it would close about 20 of its 145 stores in Greater China. Now, Langer says another 20 will follow over the next 18 months.

    “To return to profitable growth again in the medium term, we have made decisions that are painful to begin with,” Langer said. “The market environment will remain difficult for the foreseeable future.”

    Hugo Boss earnings fell 13 per cent to 108 million euros (US$120 million) in the second quarter on sales down 4 per cent to euro 622 million. Net profit has hit by 57 million in extraordinary items, largely costs relating to closing stores.

    Langer’s strategy to improve Hugo Boss’ earnings includes renegotiating rents, shutting stores and refocusing marketing spending on its core menswear range rather than womenswear, a category his predecessor diversified into.

    He also plans to sell the brand in high-quality stores in the US market, to try to reduce discounting.

    Hugo Boss’ share price rose 6 per cent on Friday after the results were revealed and some analysts are now recommending investors buy the stock.

  • China National Service Corp opens Shanghai downtown duty free store

    China National Service Corp opens Shanghai downtown duty free store

    State-owned China National Service Corporation (CNSC) opened its ambitious Shanghai downtown duty free store on 8 August. The corporation aims to invest heavily in the burgeoning downtown duty free sector in China.

    The store opening attracted thousands of shoppers on opening day. It houses an initial 100 brands from the region and worldwide over two floors, with more to come in the next three months, according to local reports. Categories on offer includes watches & jewellery, beauty, confectionery, toys, gifts and special sections dedicated to Korean and Japanese items,

    According to reports from Shanghai, the leading brands sold on day one were Estée Lauder, La Mer and MAC.

    The reports said that year one sales should hit around 400 million Yuan (US$60 million).

    CNSC said it planned to improve its retail systems and service processes, as well as its customer capacity.

    Landmark day: The new CNSC store opens in Shanghai (Phoho: Duty Free Expert)

    Landmark day: The new CNSC store opens in Shanghai (Photos: Duty Free Expert)

    Large crowds gathered in anticipation of the new store's unveiling

    Large crowds gathered in anticipation of the new store’s unveiling

  • H&M Hong Kong recognised as top employer

    H&M Hong Kong recognised as top employer

    Fashion retailer H&M Hong Kong has received Asia’s Best Employer Brand Award at a ceremony hosted by the Employer Branding Institute, World HRD Congress and Stars of the Industry Group.

    Presented at the Pan Pacific Singapore, the award recognises organisations in Asia for excellence in building their brand as an employer of choice.

    The jury for the seventh edition of the award – leaders, researchers and academicians – judged companies for their development initiatives, employee hiring, training and retention practices, and HR innovation.

    Vivian Chen, Marketing Director of H&M Greater China, accepted the award on behalf of H&M (Photo credit - ASIA BEST EMPLOYER BRAND AWARDS)

    “I am thankful that H&M’s effort to provide a fun, creative and dynamic workplace is being recognised,” says H&M greater China manager Magnus Olsson. “People are our success, and we are committed to being a good employer.”

    He says H&M’s corporate culture is based on a range of values: believing in people, being one team, constantly improving, being straightforward and open-minded, encouraging an entrepreneurial spirit, keeping it simple and being cost-conscious.

  • Louis Vuitton packaging revamped

    Louis Vuitton packaging revamped

    Louis Vuitton packaging is to change colour and style – with an entirely new look replacing the famous dark brown.

    In a surprise move, the French retailer has unveiled new product packaging in a bright saffron shade. It says the distinctive color, part of the history of Louis Vuitton for a century and a half, gives an elegantly distinctive signature to client packages.

    “The iconic brown chocolate color of Louis Vuitton packaging has been replaced by a bright saffron dubbed “Safran Impérial”,” the company says.

    LV 2

    Recently seen during the “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez” exhibition, the color in fact first appeared early in the history of the Maison, as can be seen in many iconic heritage pieces. In particular, the saffron tone is found on the Citroën trunk made by Louis Vuitton for an expedition to Africa organised by the car maker in 1924.

    The packaging includes another historic LV color – the striking blue used in ribbons and handles to offset the saffron, “creating a contemporary, timeless signature”.

    “The lighter tone on the sides and interiors of the new packaging echoes the natural cowhide leather used by Louis Vuitton since 1860. Stronger materials and new formats designed to fit conveniently in luggage make the packaging perfect for travelling, in keeping with the Louis Vuitton spirit,” the company says.

    “The use of raw cotton and a flat-pack collapsible design reflect Louis Vuitton’s longstanding commitment to sustainability.”

  • Michael Kors Asia outperforms US

    Michael Kors Asia outperforms US

    Michael Kors Asia sales are showing healthy growth – at the same time as same-store figures are falling heavily in its US home market.

    Michael Kors has kicked off its new financial year with a weak set of numbers this week.

    Total revenue was virtually flat, just 0.2 per cent higher than during the same period last year., and driven by the opening of new stores which helped push overall retail sales up by 7.6 per cent. That offset a dismal comparable sales decline of 7.4 per cent.

    Michael Kors Asia has been a growth spot, with revenues rising by 74.5 per cent – although this is flattered by the acquisition of the company’s Greater China licensee.

    However, even on an underlying basis, the region is in positive territory, again thanks to the more favorable brand perception from consumers.

    In the US, one of the key issues is that interest in the brand appears to have peaked. This is evident from Conlumino’s brand tracking, which shows that while Michael Kors is not viewed unfavorably by consumers, it is not enjoying the resurgence that Coach has managed to engineer. This domestic woe is evident in the North American numbers which tumbled by 5 per cent, a sequentially worse performance than the previous quarter.

    The worsening of North American results is partly attributable to the stronger dollar which has likely weakened tourist sales at key flagships in the US, and Michael Kors is affected more than Coach in this respect, as it relies more on tourist spend at its larger stores. Nevertheless, given the investment being put into the new digital flagships – such as the one at 520 Broadway in New York – such an outcome is disappointing.

    The numbers from Europe were somewhat better with a 3.3 per cent increase in revenue over last year. Here, the MK brand is less ubiquitous and the company’s new stores, such as the one recently opened on London’s Regent St, are generating good trade in a way that the stores in North America are failing to do. Given that the company has several further European digital flagship stores in the pipeline for this fall, it looks likely that Europe will continue to deliver respectable sales growth across this fiscal year.

    Wholesale decline

    In the continuation of a theme we have seen across many luxury brands, wholesale revenue has decreased – falling by 7 per cent. Some of this is down to the company’s own actions to reduce exposure to channels that do not reflect its brand image, and some is down to the generally weaker traffic to malls across North America which has affected a number of outlets and stores that sell Michael Kors product.

    Looking ahead, while international sales will grow this year, the increase will be offset by continued pressures in North America. As such, revenues will likely be flat which will create pressure on the bottom line given all of the investments the brand is making.

  • Topmot Vietnam receives seed funding

    Topmot Vietnam receives seed funding

    Right after the closure of its sibling eCommerce model Lingo, Topmot Vietnam has received US$1 million from investors in Asia, Europe and the US.

    The funding proves that despite many online failures in Vietnam to date, there is still interest in eCommerce startups.

    “Ecommerce in Vietnam is indeed not easy, specifically for B2C businesses that require a sizable up-front investment to be able to process and fulfill orders in a professional manner,” CEO Erik Jonsson said.

    Topmot Vietnam has launched an iOS application to help it expand to farther areas besides Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. There are still opportunities in Vietnam market where people prefer to pay in cash and the logistics network remains immature.

    “eCommerce in Vietnam is not a sprint, it’s a marathon, and we have to be disciplined and focussed in each step of the way,” Jonsson added.

    Jonsson, a former Zalora CEO, and deputy CEO of VinGroup’s eCommerce, founded Topmot Vietnam in late 2015. Topmot’s model is different to conventional eCommerce sites, focused on flash sales and aiming to help suppliers clear excess and end-of-season inventories.

    The site has built a strong customer network in second-tier cities like Can Tho, Vung Tau, Da Nang and Hai Phong, attracted by high discounts.

    With 40 campaigns a week, starting at 10am everyday and lasting for five days, Topmot usually sells out of its products only a few hours after launch. Fastest-selling products come from international brands such as Shiseido, Converse, Puma and Pedro, as well as local brands such as Gosto, Kujean and Bitis.

    While the defunct Lingo site’s business largely came from shoppers using desktop or laptop computers, Topmot’s traffic from mobile devices has increased 70 per cent since its launch last year.

  • Tough road for New Look

    Tough road for New Look

    Following a robust few years of market outperformance and share gains, the start of New Look’s 2016-17 financial year is a major disappointment.

    While weakened consumer confidence and unseasonal weather dampened shopper appetite to spend on clothing & footwear, New Look has underperformed the market and lost share over the period.

    Despite a 35.5 per cent fall in underlying operating profit to £30.5 million, the retailer has continued to invest in its strategic growth areas, namely menswear and China. Menswear sales growth of 21 per cent dramatically outperformed following further rollout of the men’s standalone format. Moreover, as it builds a bigger customer following New Look is able to improve its menswear proposition via insight gained on most browsed and shopped styles and customer feedback – ensuring its collection is continually enhanced and better targeted to its core audience.

    While New Look has the opportunity to grow its share of the UK menswear market organically, given that it is a less saturated and outperforming segment of the clothing market, it should also be targeting share from rivals such as River Island, Burton, Blue Inc and Topman.

    Verdict forecasts a more challenging couple of years for the clothing market than what we had forecast back in January. While Brexit will impact spend across the home sectors more so than in clothing, the likelihood of squeezed disposable incomes, rising food & grocery prices and price inflation in clothing will restrict consumer’s ability to purchase higher volumes of discretionary clothing purchases.

    Retailers will therefore have to work that much harder to stimulate spend. However, New Look’s value positioning and go-to appeal for both essentials and fashion will put it at an advantage over some of its mid-market competitors.

  • Politics could add to forces working against Korean cosmetics industry

    Politics could add to forces working against Korean cosmetics industry

    Last week the Korean government announced plan to impose duty free limits to stop third party sales of cosmetics in China, and now, in an unrelated move, the China government’s threats to retaliate over Korea’s deployment of new military defence technology seems to be adding to investor fears.

    Korea has taken a decision to deploy a Terminal High Altitude Area Defence (THAAD) battery, which some experts believe is one of the reasons why investors a dumping shares in Korean companies, a sector that is heavily reliant on exports to China.

    Raising the bar on visas and sanitary regulations

    In the first move, perceived to be a retaliatory step by China authorities, officials recently closed a visa agency catering to Koreans, something that will make it harder for Korean companies to obtain multiple entry visas for doing business in China.

    On top of this, the China trade authorities have also stepped up sanitary regulations governing Korean beauty products, a move that is also likely to put a damper on exports of certain products and make the whole process more difficult.

    “Cosmetics and entertainment stocks have plummeted as China has begun taking steps against Korean companies and individuals doing business on the mainland,” said Daniel Cho, head of research at Daishin Securities, speaking to the Korean Times.

    “The recent decline was largely engineered by the potential THAAD backlash.”

    Those duty free regulations

    Simultaneously, speculation has been growing about the impact of proposed duty free regulations, which are being drawn up to protect the industry, but some experts say this has already had an impact on investors and the value of shares in the country’s big beauty players.

    Last week the Korean customs authorities notified all Korean duty-free retail operators, which include three major operators, that each customer would be limited to buy no more than 50 cosmetic and fragrance products.

    The main objective behind the clamp down is to cut out on the emerging market for cosmetics then be sold on to third-party brokers, and then resold on to other retail channels.

    News of the limit was leaked on the previous Friday and when the Korean Stock Exchange re-opened for trading on Monday, stock prices dropped significantly, with Amore Pacific share prices falling over 2% and LG Household & Health falling 6%.

    In the last few years the rise and rise of Korean cosmetics companies has been attributed to a huge appetite from the China market, but with prices of the products being much higher in China, consumers have taken to shopping holidays in Korea to stock up.

    China drives duty-free cosmetics sales

    Sales of Korean cosmetics have been boosted by chic advertising campaigns, Korean pop and a product innovation pipeline that boasts some of the most cutting edge products available anywhere in the world.

    A large part of this success has been the huge influx of tourism from China, many of whom are going on ‘shopping holidays’ with the main aim of buying up their favourite Korean cosmetic products at a cheaper price than they would pay in China.

    Current figures show that cosmetics make up the lion’s share of Korea’s largest duty free retail chain, Lotte, accounting for 58.9% of sales in the first quarter of this year, and that 70.8% of the company’s overall sales came from Chinese visitors. This up from 63.3% compared to the previous year.

  • Carousell raises $35m for expansion

    Carousell raises $35m for expansion

    Singapore-based online marketplace Carousell has raised US$35 million in a funding round led by Rakuten Ventures.

    Other investors in the Series B funding round included Golden Gate Ventures, Sequoia India and 500 Startups.

    Founded in 2012, the Carousell app lets people buy and sell a variety of items including beauty products, fashion, lifestyle gadgets, furniture and home appliances. Sellers upload photos of items they wish to sell while buyers use the chat function to buy.

    Carousell will use the new funds to speed its growth into new markets, strengthen its product and engineering capabilities and build a “world-class” team, says co-founder/CEO Quek Siu Rui. The company has just hired former AirBNB Southeast Asia MD Chai Jia Jih to oversee its international expansion.

    So far Carousell has raised about $41.8 million, and is available in 13 major Asian cities including Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Taipei and, most recently, Hong Kong.

    Its marketplace had more than 35 million listings globally as of the second quarter this year, with Quek claiming it has gathers 70 listings a minute.

    To stand out from its competition, Carousell puts emphasis on speed. Quek says it takes as little as 30 seconds to post a listing on the marketplace, and users can communicate within the app, eliminating the need for messaging apps or emails.

  • Modern Avenue Group cancels Italian store deal

    Modern Avenue Group cancels Italian store deal

    Chinese distributor Modern Avenue Group (formerly Canudilo) has decided not to proceed with its purchase of the luxury Excelsior Milano department store.

    Modern Avenue, which owns sport couture brand Dirk Bikkembergs, has not given a reason for its change of heart.

    A purchase price of €21.3 million (US$23.7 million) was announced at the end of June for the store, launched in 2012 by Italian group Coin. The deal was to have been finalised this month. With a specific selection of high-end fashion, Excelsior Milano is overseen by Antonia Giacinti, who owns the new boutique collective Antonia.

    The Antonia brand was confirmed last month under an agreement with Modern Avenue, with a view to open five franchise stores over the next four years. The first Antonia store will debut next month.

  • Kate Spade figures reveal slowing growth

    Kate Spade figures reveal slowing growth

    While the latest Kate Spade figures are respectable, there is a clear slowdown in the pace of growth compared to last quarter.

    This is most noticeable in the direct-to-consumer segment, where comparable revenue rose by a fairly meagre 4 per cent, compared to the 19 per cent uplift posted during the first quarter. Although it is not unreasonable to expect growth to moderate from its heady pace, the expectation of Kate Spade’s management team was that this would not happen quite so soon.

    It is notable that the slowdown is mostly confined to North America, with international sales growth advancing steadily from last quarter’s 3.2 per cent growth rate. Kate Spade has suggested that much of this is tourist related with reduced international visitor footfall at key stores in New York, and lower spending from those that do visit thanks to the strong dollar.

    There is some truth in this, but it does not completely explain away the very slim growth rate in the direct segment – which is now running at just 1 per cent on a comparable basis once eCommerce has been excluded.

    There are three other factors at play which negatively affected growth.

    The first of these is the comeback of competitors like Coach, which thanks to brand repositioning and lower discounting are now attracting more customers. While there is only a partial overlap between Coach and Kate Spade, Conlumino customer data suggests that shopper sharing between the two brands has increased over recent months.

    The second factor is an increase in consumer uncertainty, especially among younger female shoppers. Such softness in Kate Spade’s target market likely reduced both the volume and value of purchasing over the period. This had a slight knock-on effect in terms of discounting which affected margins over the quarter.

    Thirdly, although Kate Spade’s marketing is still achieving cut through with campaigns like Miss Adventure, the impact seemed to weaken over the summer. This likely had a negative impact in terms of visiting and purchasing.

    Given that all of these trends are things that will not suddenly disappear, the danger for Kate Spade is that it is now entering a period of weaker sales growth: something it has reflected in its guidance. That said, slower sales uplifts are not necessarily indicative of a group in trouble. Indeed, Kate Spade will still grow and will do so at a pace that is above overall market growth. It will also continue to deliver healthy profits, which at net income level are running at $38 million in the year to date, compared to a loss of $47 million over the same period last year.

    Kate Spade is still a company moving forward – even if it now does so with slightly less momentum.

    • Neil Saunders is, CEO of retail analyst Conlumino.