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  • Burberry shrugs off Hong Kong woes, delivering solid growth

    Burberry shrugs off Hong Kong woes, delivering solid growth

    British fashion house Burberry has reported sales and profit increases in the first half-year, despite the turmoil in Hong Kong, one of its largest international markets.

    “We are pleased with our performance in the half, as we remain on track to deliver the first phase of our strategy,” said Marco Gobbetti, CEO of the Hong Kong-listed fashion company.

    “We delivered financial results in line with guidance despite the decline in Hong Kong and we confirm our outlook for the full year.”

    During the six months to September 30, Burberry achieved comp-store sales growth of 4 percent – or £61 million – to £1.281 billion and adjusted operating profit growth of 15.9 percent to £202 million.

    Gobbetti said customer response to its new products has been positive, delivering strong double-digit growth. “We also continued to strengthen momentum around our brand and transform our distribution.”

    Chloe Collins, senior retail analyst at GlobalData, said credit for Burberry’s turnaround is due to new creative director Riccardo Tisci, as his collections now dominate the product assortment, achieving double-digit growth and now accounting for 70 percent of the range,

    “Tisci’s modern and edgy re-imagining of Burberry’s classic and traditionally British fashion styles, with a heavy focus on the new monogram logo, have transformed the brand, helping it appeal to a younger audience, who will then carry their desire for the brand with them as they age.”

    She said the menswear categories reacted particularly well within the half, with sales lifting by 12.3 percent as Tisci’s new designs incorporate more streetwear elements to capitalize on the athleisure trend. Womenswear performance was also strong, with revenue growing by 7.7 percent, however sales of accessories were disappointing, dropping 2.5 percent.

    “With new styles, including the signature TB bag, reportedly receiving positive reactions, Burberry must heavily promote these via social media and give them prominent positioning in stores to maximise Christmas gifting opportunities and achieve stronger results for the third quarter.”

  • Esprit results signal looks promising

    Esprit results signal looks promising

    Embattled fashion retailer Esprit believes its first-quarter results prove its restructuring program is on track.

    The Hong Kong-listed company recorded a year-on-year global sales decline of 10.8 percent in local currency terms. But in a stock-exchange filing, the company said the pressure from falling sales was “more than compensated by significant cost savings which led to an improvement in our operating results”. The company did not release profit figures, only sales data.

    In the filing, Esprit said management was “encouraged by the progress made” in the three months to September 30 and “is confident that the group is on the right track to recovery”.

    Esprit sales in Asia fell 44.4 percent from HK$314 million (US$40 million) to $175 million ($22.3 million), however the brand performed better in Europe where sales fell 11.6 percent (or 7.4 percent on a currency-neutral basis) from $3.02 billion ($385.5 million) to $2.671 billion ($340.9 million). Total group sales were $2.846 billion ($363.3 million), the 10.8 percent decline comparing favorably to a 14 percent decline in company-controlled retail space.

    The company said in the core European market, which accounts for 85.7 percent of its revenue, it achieved small comp-store sales growth in August and September. A reduction in discounting saw comp-store gross profit improve, but it did not release figures.

    In Germany, wholesale sales which have declined every quarter for seven straight years, improved by 1.8 percent in the latest quarter.

    “This is an encouraging development thanks to ongoing progress made in building a best-in-class wholesale model to serve our wholesale partners,” the company said.

    Again, while not releasing figures, Esprit said reduced operating expenses due to reduced headcounts, the closure or resizing of unprofitable stores, and a persistent discipline on cost control and efficiency measures enabled it to reduce operating expenses “significantly”.

  • Louis Vuitton flagship opens in Seoul

    Louis Vuitton flagship opens in Seoul

    The new Louis Vuitton Seoul flagship store has opened, its design collaboration with renowned architects Frank Gehry and Peter Marino.

    Located on Cheongdam-dong Avenue in the Gangnam district, Louis Vuitton Maison Seoul features Korean culture-inspired elements, including the Hwaseong Fortress, the swooping movements and white costumes of the traditional Dongnae Hakchum crane dance while maintaining the Gehry-designed curved glass structure inspired by the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris.

    “What struck me when I first visited Seoul about 25 years ago, was the relationship between the architecture and the natural landscape. I still remember clearly the powerful impressions I had stepping from the garden of Jongmyo Shrine,” said Frank Gehry. “I am delighted to have designed Louis Vuitton Maison Seoul, reflecting the traditional values of the Korean culture.”

    Designed by Marino, the interior of the store is divided into different areas. The basement and first floor are used as ‘retail universes’, offering mens and womens collections including ready-to-wear, leather goods and accessories.

    The next upper floors feature a private space and an enclosed terrace for intimate dinners and events or exclusive appointments. The top floor is an exhibition zone called Espace Louis Vuitton Seoul, displaying eight emblematic sculptures by Giacometti, that belong to the Collection, including L’homme qui chavire (1950) and Grande Femme II (1960).

    “The interior spaces were designed with a ‘Miesian’ rigour to more strongly emphasise the billowing energetic sculptural quality of Gehry’s exterior,” said Marino.

    “The interior stone flows in from the exterior. The dynamism of the rectangular volumes cleanly contrasts with the baroque glass shields of the building.”

  • Uniqlo sales plunge in South Korea

    Uniqlo sales plunge in South Korea

    Massive discount offers have failed to stem a plunge in Uniqlo sales in South Korea, where the Japanese fashion retailer has been targeted by the boycott movement.

    Rep. Park Kwang-on reported based on a compilation of data collected from eight credit card companies in South Korea that Uniqlo sales last month amounted to 9.1 billion won (US$7.8 million), a mere 33 percent of the sales achieved during the same month last year.

    Uniqlo managed to generate only 8.1 billion won (US$7 million) in sales during the massive discount period held between October 1 and 14, which was 39 percent of sales recorded in the same period last year.

    Uniqlo, celebrating the fall and winter seasons, has renovated stores and began a marketing offensive driven by Furis, Heattech, and other signature brands.

    Since October 3, Uniqlo held a 15th anniversary ‘thank you’ event both online and offline, offering discounts of as much as 50 percent for many of its signature products.

    Reports of several products being sold out online and offline stores crowded by customers seemed to suggest that the boycott movement was in decline.

    Park argued, however, that the boycott movement is still strong.

    Top ten, a local fashion brand run by Shinsung Tongsang Co that is seen by many as an alternative to Uniqlo, saw sales last month rise 61 percent year on year.

    “Despite the discount events, Uniqlo sales are far from recovery,” said Park.

  • H&M unveils small format retail stores in Berlin

    H&M unveils small format retail stores in Berlin

    Fashion retailer H&M has opened a new ‘hyper-local flagship’ in Berlin’s creative Mitte Garden district.

    The 300sqm store, one of the brand’s smallest worldwide, offers curated womenswear, selected external brands, vintage pieces and a showroom for customers. It features curated fashion from H&M’s own assortment as well as selected external brands, most of them Berlin-based.

    The selected assortment is paired with a digital tool offering H&M’s full range where customers can browse and build their looks on their own or aided by a stylist.

    “It’s a test for us as a global retailer to elaborate around how we can be more personal and locally relevant,” said H&M Group laboratory business developer Anna Bergare.

    H&M Mitte Garten will regularly offer events such as lectures, fashion talks, and yoga for its customers. Upcoming trends and looks will be presented in the public showroom. Here consumers can try on and borrow pieces to make sure their future purchases are consciously made.

    “This is a unique location and it has served as a meeting place for Berliners for more than 100 years,” said H&M Germany country manager Thorsten Mindermann. “[It’s] a tradition we want to honor. We aim to offer a neighborhood store serving as a platform for local and global talents within retail, culture, and art.”

    Rentals move in Sweden

    The opening comes as the brand gets ready to debut clothing rentals in its Stockholm flagship store. The brand is offering the chance to rent selected party dresses and skirts from its 2012–2019 Conscious Exclusive collections to members of its customer loyalty program.

    “We have looked at clothing rental for quite some time and are so happy to for the first time soon offer fashion fans the possibility to rent some stunning pieces from our Conscious Exclusive collections,” H&M said head of sustainability Pascal Brun. “We look forward to evaluating this as we are dedicated to change the way fashion is made and consumed today.”

    Members will be able to rent up to three pieces a time for a week at a cost of around SEK350 (US$36) per piece.

  • Marie France Van Damme launches Fall 2019 capsule collection

    Marie France Van Damme launches Fall 2019 capsule collection

    Hong Kong-based fashion designer Marie France Van Damme has released a new capsule collection.

    Retailing from US$500–$2000, the new Fall 2019 capsule collection is available as of this month.

    Photographed by Edwin Datoc in the industrial alleys of Kwun Tong in Kowloon – an area is known for its textile industry history and that also houses Marie France Van Damme’s office and atelier for the last 30 years – the campaign features model Hou Jing Cui set against the cityscape.

    “I think of my new capsule collection as the perfect blend of East and West,” said Marie France Van Damme. “Kowloon is the perfect backdrop for my latest collection inspired by the city I love and call home. We are proud of our atelier’s history and heritage and excited to share our new campaign.”

    The collection uses the designer’s signature black, white, and gold palette in luxurious fabrics from French lace to metallic-toned Italian weaves and light Chinese silks. New this season is a collection of full-length lightweight cotton and wool tweed coats.

    Marie France Van Damme has 13 boutiques and more than 100 retail locations in international destinations from London to Dubai.

  • Uniqlo South Korea courts controversy as it attempts comeback

    Uniqlo South Korea courts controversy as it attempts comeback

    Facing an unprecedented boycott campaign Japanese fashion retailer Uniqlo has launched a comeback campaign in South Korea – only to stumble almost immediately.

    Uniqlo South Korea’s new television commercial rekindled controversy following complaints that the ad made fun of Japanese sex slaves.

    Following the boycott movement which dates back to July, Uniqlo closed four stores in South Korea before opening three new stores over August and September. The company also reopened two original stores following renovations.

    Uniqlo plans to hold a seminar for job seekers this month as it prepares to hire new employees next year.

    This time, a new program has been set up to connect job seekers directly with Uniqlo staff, which is seen as a strategic move to recover its reputation in the country.

    Uniqlo has also been offering a 50-per-cent discount for some of its signature products since October 3 to celebrate the 15th anniversary of Uniqlo Korea, which is being seen as an unprecedented move even for Uniqlo that has been offering various discounts on a regular basis

    Uniqlo Korea’s new English advertisement, however, has sparked outrage among locals, placing the company at the mercy of South Korean consumers yet again.

    In the commercial, a teenager asks a 98-year-old lady what she wore when she was her age, to which the old lady answers “I can’t remember that far back.”

    The Korean subtitles, however, say “My God, how can I remember something that happened more than 80 years ago?”

    The commercial became an instant controversy among South Koreans, with many seeing the subtitles expressed as being scornful of the 1930s, which was about 80 years ago, when the Japanese empire forced Koreans into military service and sex slavery.

    Uniqlo denied all of the allegations but soon decided to take down the commercial all together.

    In response, Yoon Dong-hyun, a student from Chonnam National University, shot a video clip with Yang Geum-deok, a sex slave victim, imitating the Uniqlo commercial.

    In the video, Yoon asks Yang how difficult her life was when she was his age. Yang answers “I can never forget the horrible pain that I suffered back then.”

    “The video clip was made to tell Japan how it must have felt for the victims during those times,” said Yun.

  • Uniqlo to open first Vietnam store in Saigon

    Uniqlo to open first Vietnam store in Saigon

    Japanese casual wear retailer Uniqlo plans to open a 3,000-square-meter store in downtown HCMC at the end of this year.

    Its first store in the country, at Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza in District 1, would be one of its biggest in Southeast Asia, the company said in a release. It will sell clothes for men, women and children.

    Uniqlo earlier this month established its Vietnam business with a charter capital of $8.8 million, with apparel company Fast Retailing Singapore owning a 75 percent stake and Japan’s Mitsubishi Corporation the rest.

    Uniqlo, which is already in Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, the Philippines, and Indonesia in Southeast Asia, had 213 stores in the region by the end of last year and plans to have 400 by 2022. It now has over 2,200 stores in 24 countries and territories.

    Uniqlo’s arrival in Vietnam is sure to intensify competition between foreign brands like Zara and H&M, who came two years ago and have outlets at major malls in both HCMC and Hanoi.

    Vietnam’s fashion market is estimated to grow to more than $3.8 billion this year and over $5 billion by 2021, according to BMI Research.

  • First Steve Madden store opens in Malaysia

    First Steve Madden store opens in Malaysia

    Steve Madden has opened its first store in Malaysia in partnership with retail group Valiram.

    Following success in Singapore, Steve Madden Malaysia marks the label’s second boutique launched by Valiram.

    “It is an absolute privilege for us to present yet another new-to-market lifestyle brand to Malaysia. Steve Madden is a trend leader that is intrinsically urban with an edgy attitude, and we’re certain it will make an impact with the fashion-forward shoppers in Kuala Lumpur,” said Ashvin Valiram, executive director of Valiram.

    Located in Mid Valley Megamall Kuala Lumpur, the 1410sqft store features the brand’s new design concept “Distilled Urban”, the incorporation of wood, steel and concrete, inspired by contemporary New York City chic.

    The Steve Madden Malaysia store also featured the new Fall 2019 Collection at its opening event.

    Founded in 1935, retail group Valiram operates more than 380 stores across Asia Pacific, presenting international brands including Michael Kors, Tumi and Victoria’s Secret.

  • Raymond plans to open 500 more Indian stores by 2021

    Raymond plans to open 500 more Indian stores by 2021

    Indian retailer Raymond is set to operate 1500 stores across the territory within two years.

    The firm currently runs 1000 branded stores and 500 outlets under other brand names across 600 cities in India. It will seek to expand its home brand in lower-tier cities via a franchise model.

    Raymond stores average 2000sqft, although the firm has been focused on establishing smaller-format stores over the past 18 months.

    Indian retailer Raymond currently runs the largest branded fashion retail network within India and also operates in Bangladesh, Nepa, the Middle East and Pakistan. It has plans to enter the US market in “the near future”.

  • Burberry Hong Kong targets sales hit

    Burberry Hong Kong targets sales hit

    Analysts are warning that Burberry Hong Kong is bracing for a £100 million hit on sales from the city’s ongoing disorder.

    Burberry has declined to comment on the research note issued by Jefferies and reported by The Telegraph newspaper in London, and further by Retail Gazette.

    As Hong Kong’s protests continue, retail sales have plummeted due to falling visitor numbers. The luxury sector has been hardest hit with sales down between 40 percent and 50 percent brand by brand.

    The Jefferies analysts have projected that Burberry Hong Kong sales are likely to be £100 million lower in the year to next April. However, they added that as much as 50 percent of that shortfall could be mitigated by increased sales in Europe and other parts of Asia.

    Burberry Hong Kong has 10 stores and the city accounts for about 8 percent of group sales.

    Flavio Cereda, a Jefferies analyst, said the seasonal nature of Burberry’s offer exposed it to challenges not faced by other luxury brands, such as, for example, watch houses.

    “The problem with having ready-to-wear in stores which are not shifting is that the stock is seasonal so it’s a pressing problem because it will hit markdowns pretty soon,” Cereda said.

    “You’ve got two issues; you’ve got to divert deliveries and then you’ve got to think about what to do with all the stock in the stores because it’s not selling.

    “The simple solution is don’t deliver stuff to Hong Kong anymore, there’s no point. Or if you’re going to deliver 500 jackets, then deliver 50 instead and ship the rest of them off to Mainland China.”

  • Desigual partners with Zalora in Singapore

    Desigual partners with Zalora in Singapore

    Spanish fashion brand Desigual has partnered with Zalora in Singapore to co-host a VIP event and present the label’s Fall Winter 2019 collection in Singa

    The event connected Desigual’s “brand DNA” with Singapore’s local arts scene. The brand set up an interactive artwork from Singapore’s Band of Doodlers for their guests to draw and paint with their creativity.

    The fashion company introduced Desigual’s Fall Winter 2019 Collection through an art performance from Silent Stars Entertainment with dancers wearing the collection.

    Founded in 1984, Desigual recently decided to permanently reverse its logo, highlighting the word “Desigual” which means “different” in Spanish.

  • Asia cited as Ted Baker swings to a loss

    Asia cited as Ted Baker swings to a loss

    UK fashion house Ted Baker has slumped into the red in the first half of the year, its position not helped by a 15.2-per-cent fall in sales in Asia.

    Global revenue was down by a more modest 0.7 percent (or by 2.5 percent in constant currency) to £303.8 million, but pre-tax profit turned from a £25 million surplus in the first half of last year to a loss of £2.7 million. The company took a £11.8 million one-off hit on the restructure of its Asian business, where it has appointed partners in Greater China and Japan, and £3.5 million relating to the purchase of a footwear business in January.

    Sales in Asia were £9.5 million and sales per square foot excluding e-commerce sales decreased by 4.6 percent.

    E-commerce concession businesses in China and Japan delivered sales of £1.4 million, down from £1.7 million, which represented 14.7 percent of Ted Baker’s Asian sales.

    Licensed stores across Asia continued to perform well with existing license partners in Thailand, Singapore and India opening new stores. However, in Indonesia and South Korea, several partner stores were closed.

    Despite the loss, Ted Baker is optimistic about its future prospects, saying its Autumn/Winter collections have been well received and that it is excited about new product initiatives including monthly product drops and speed to market developments.

    “Despite the structural challenges and cyclical pressures on the industry, we remain confident in Ted Baker’s ability to navigate the market and further develop as a global lifestyle brand,” the company said in a results statement. “This confidence remains underpinned by the group’s flexible, omnichannel model, the continuing strength of the brand, and the skill, passion and commitment of our talented teams worldwide.

    “We are continuing to pro-actively manage the significant challenges impacting our sector including weak consumer spending, macro-economic uncertainty, and the accelerating channel shift towards e-commerce. However, we are not immune to these pressures which have impacted our financial performance during the first half of the year.”

    Emily Salter, retail analyst at GlobalData, said it was worrying that Ted Baker’s online sales had declined given its strong multichannel proposition.

    “The retailer can therefore not solely blame the troubles of the physical high street for its fall from grace, as it has previously performed strongly online even as retail revenue growth became more subdued. This points to more significant problems with demand for the brand and the impacts of regular discounting.”

    Salter says that for Ted Baker to be able to revive itself without its founder and former leader playing a key role, it needs to re-establish its brand identity, retain its loyal shopper base and reduce its reliance on discounting.

    “The retailer should take the opportunity to poach Karen Millen and Coast shoppers who are reluctant to purchase online, as the premium brands’ stores and concessions are now closed as a result of the acquisition by the Boohoo group. Ted Baker should review its sales channels, as it sells through department store retailers and online pureplays, leaving it exposed to the troubles of players such as House of Fraser and Debenhams. Moving its childrenswear license from Debenhams to Next in Spring 2020 will help to address this as Next’s leading online platform will be able to generate much stronger growth than the embattled department store,” she said.

     

  • Japanese label Onward to slash store network

    Japanese label Onward to slash store network

    Japanese label Onward is preparing to shutter around one in five of its global outlets.

    The move preempts the firm’s crossover towards e-commerce at a time when its physical stores – most of which sell from department stores in Japan – are experiencing a drop in customer demand.

    Onward is expected to adjust its financial forecast in line with anticipated costs arising from the store shutdowns resulting in a net loss of around ¥30 billion (US$278 million). The firm has not recorded a loss within the past 11 years.

    Employees of the Japanese label Onward who are affected by the closures are likely to be reassigned to roles in expanding the brand’s e-commerce business.

  • Nadja Swarovski and celebrities honour Karl Lagerfeld with a white shirt

    Nadja Swarovski and celebrities honour Karl Lagerfeld with a white shirt

    Nadja Swarovski is celebrating Karl Lagerfeld’s memory and legacy by joining a global community of creative talents to reimagine his most iconic design: the white shirt, to be showcased during Spring/Summer20 Paris Fashion Week.

    Curated by Carine Roitfeld, a creative visionary and a longtime friend, the project is partnering exclusively with Farfetch, with all proceeds donated to the ‘Sauver la Vie’ charity initiative, which funds medical research at the Paris Descartes University and which Lagerfeld supported for many years.

    Alongside Nadja Swarovski, a host of artists, actors, models, designers and friends have been invited to create their own version of his iconic white shirt, including Amber Valletta, Lewis Hamilton, Sebastien Jondeau and Alessandro Michele. Of his signature garment, Lagerfeld once said: “If you ask me what I’d most like to have invented in fashion, I’d say the white shirt. For me, the white shirt is the basis of everything. Everything else comes after.”

    The Swarovski shirt features cuffs that shimmer with a galaxy of Hotfix stones, as well as crystals hidden inside the placket of the classic fly-front design. In a nod to the playful wit that characterized the work of this giant of the fashion world, Lagerfeld’s image is captured on the reverse of the shirt in a pixelated transfer of 6000 crystals.

    Seven of the project’s designs will each be replicated 77 times and went on sale on Karl.com and Farfetch.com yesterday at €777 per piece.

    The number seven was chosen as it was the designer’s lucky number and represented many elements in his life: his favorite arrondissement in Paris (the 7th), and the name of his bookshop and publishing house (7L). The original shirts went on display at a private exhibition at the Maison Karl Lagerfeld this week and will tour selected Karl Lagerfeld stores worldwide from next week.

    “It is an incredible honor to have been asked to pay tribute to Karl,” said Nadja Swarovski, a member of the Swarovski board. “It was also highly intimidating to attempt to create something aesthetically acceptable in honor of one of fashion’s best talents. Nonetheless, my team and I had a great time completing and realizing our design ideas in his honor. Long live King Karl!”

    Holli Rogers, chief brand officer of Farfetch, described the tribute as “amazing”.

    “The huge level of support that has been pledged by some of the world’s most exciting tastemakers is a testament to Karl’s legacy and the impact he made globally. We are excited to give Farfetch customers the opportunity to own these limited-edition pieces, that will forever be a wonderful tribute to Karl, whilst simultaneously giving back to the ‘Sauver la Vie’ charity, a worthy cause so close to Karl’s heart.”

    Favorite memory

    Nadja Swarovski recalls working with Karl lagerfeld on the jeweler’s Atelier Swarovski collection.

    “We met in his office and he immediately started sketching, flinging them into the air as he worked. In the end, the floor was covered with sketches and three remained on desk, which were the pieces we went on to create,” she recalls.

    “It was inspiring to be around him as he worked. I was also delighted when he agreed to participate in the creation of a jewelry piece to empower the young debutantes of the Vienna Opera Ball. He totally embraced the concept, creating a majestic traditional tiara with a modern twist, featuring a local reference of the Danube river in large, sapphire blue crystals.”